Wood vs. Carbon Fiber cue ball squirt (with a twist)

S.Vaskovskyi said:
Well I'm from the country where piramid is the major billiard game. So I do know something), play, teach in this game too because there is more interest to it here. For this game I do have a piramid cue with traditional spliced construction.
So as I enjoy playing pool more ... I do have my own preferences and cues when it comes to this game...
A few times I had some fun with pals playing "pool" using pool balls on 12ft piramid table with those pockets ... but it was never the other way around). Nevermind...
Good luck with whatever you're looking for).
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On your 13mm wood shaft, consider changing the ferrule....metal might do the job.
For players that are gung-ho about no squirt....massé is a problem also.
The trick is to get a shaft that is user friendly, where squirt and massé are acceptable.
I have played a little with the big balls.
 
Hits 'em Hard said:
Not gonna search for the thread now, but supposedly the Jacoby black shaft is a solid maple core.
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Nope. They use foam. Somebody posted pictures and the foam in the Jacoby looked solid, so the poster speculated that it was a solid material, but it's foam
 
in that my stroke no longer exists I've been using Jacoby Black, Revo 12.9, and Cuetec Cynergy.
I get myself lined up, I shoot the ball, and it goes right to the hole every time.
No shit.

It all started when I had to sub on a team and I had not played in a while.
When I was practicing I couldn't find a maple shaft that I was comfortable with when it came to big draw shots, cluster breakouts, etc.
Switched to carbon fiber and started drawing the cueball 3 rails, sideways, you name it.
I'm a traditional cue collector, swore I would never use carbon fiber, but here I am with all these cues, playing with a Wiley Woody sneaky and a CF shaft.
 
Try a 3C cue, those I think would match the specs you are looking for better. Although I don't know if they make those with a CF shaft.
 
hang-the-9 said:
Nice find, I think that those would match the requirements of playing with the Russian table equipment.
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Well cues for piramid, the history behing and how the cue-building process developed, the constructions used and so on and on... It's a long but interesting story... There is so much tradition behind and when it comes to the construction some piramid cues are the most complicated out of all for any billiard game and those makers who build them are exceptional craftsmen. I'm glad I know some of them.
One of them is my friend and he builds phenomenal playing cues, some are real pieces of art. All of them are either spliced in a certain way or full spliced both at the shaft and at the butt. Some are 3/4, some one piece fullspliced and the others are even split.
Let's just mention the most obvious differences in their length, taper, diameters, weight/balance etc. to understand what one will face if...
So as the average length of a piramid cue is around 160 sm = 63" even if we are talking about even split cues the shaft length should be around 31,5".
Again if we talk about an even split cue the diameter at the joint is usually 19 mm (0,75) or slightly under. Should I continue with the weight/balance?
So one should know the game and the difference when it comes to the feeling when you have a great playing tool in your hand. I'm glad I do know what I like when it comes to the cue for piramid and I will always choose a well built full spliced in a certain way cue over cf...
There are a lot of so different reasons why I don't see cf to become very popular in piramid in a near future ... stiffness and energy transfer cf provides are demanded the most in this game though.
 
I’m just throwing out a bad idea and and wondering why (else) it would be a bad idea.

If the OP wanted more squirt, wouldn’t it be an option to drill the center of the ferrule, and insert a brass pin? Brass is 8-10x more dense than maple.
 
PariahZero said:
I’m just throwing out a bad idea and and wondering why (else) it would be a bad idea.

If the OP wanted more squirt, wouldn’t it be an option to drill the center of the ferrule, and insert a brass pin? Brass is 8-10x more dense than maple.
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That would do it.
 
PariahZero said:
I’m just throwing out a bad idea and and wondering why (else) it would be a bad idea.

If the OP wanted more squirt, wouldn’t it be an option to drill the center of the ferrule, and insert a brass pin? Brass is 8-10x more dense than maple.
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garczar said:
That would do it.
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Yep. Or even a metal cap glued between ferrule and tip. Wouldn't take much - and the amount can be adjusted pretty easily.

pj
chgo
 
fishblade2 said:
So there are many players that still love the feel of a solid maple playing shaft but all the manufacturers have been making hollowed out low deflection shafts due to the strength that carbon fiber brings. Has anyone tried or even have a guess at how a solid carbon fiber shaft would feel or how much deflection it would have compared to a solid maple shaft?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this.
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I remember having a conversation with Earl Strickland some 20+years ago concerning the CueTec cue he was endorsing at the time and he swore by it saying that he had never played with a better cue at any price...shortly after this conversation was when he ran 11 racks with it! I personally could never play with one and have stuck to the wooden cues.
 
PoolFoolKBH said:
I remember having a conversation with Earl Strickland some 20+years ago concerning the CueTec cue he was endorsing at the time and he swore by it saying that he had never played with a better cue at any price...shortly after this conversation was when he ran 11 racks with it! I personally could never play with one and have stuck to the wooden cues.
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IIRC he rarely if ever used a Cuetec shaft on those. I saw him using one at Derby that was all wood and super-long taper. And of course he'd say that, he was getting damn good $$$ to use them. I think he used the butt and a stock CT break cue.
 
I built a robot for testing the amount of deflection in shafts. What I have found in the shafts that I have tested so far is that the wooden LD shafts deflected the cue ball about half the amount of the standard maple 13mm shaft that I use for comparison. However, almost every carbon fiber shaft that I have tested - no matter what diameter or maker - has deflected the cue ball just as much as the solid maple shaft. Only one deflected less, and then it was only slightly less.

My suggestion to the OP is that you might try a carbon fiber shaft that is solid for the first 5-6 inches, and then hollow the rest of the way. I know none of the major manufacturers are making such an animal, but there are a number of small custom builders who offer carbon fiber now, so maybe you could get one of them to make it for you.
 
Roger Long said:
I built a robot for testing the amount of deflection in shafts. What I have found in the shafts that I have tested so far is that the wooden LD shafts deflected the cue ball about half the amount of the standard maple 13mm shaft that I use for comparison. However, almost every carbon fiber shaft that I have tested - no matter what diameter or maker - has deflected the cue ball just as much as the solid maple shaft. Only one deflected less, and then it was only slightly less.

My suggestion to the OP is that you might try a carbon fiber shaft that is solid for the first 5-6 inches, and then hollow the rest of the way. I know none of the major manufacturers are making such an animal, but there are a number of small custom builders who offer carbon fiber now, so maybe you could get one of them to make it for you.
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Roger,

It is good to see you posting again. It seems like you have been away for a long while.

Check out the video and other info here:


The Predator Revo and hollow Z-2 create much less CB deflection than a typical solid maple shaft.

Enjoy,
Dave
 
I heard that the Mezz sales rep said the Mezz Carbon Fibre (12.2mm) has more deflection than the Mezz 900 (12.0mm) maple shaft.

I noted the comment because i have both the Mezz 700 and 900. I've been dithering for months over whether to get the CF just because of the ease of maintenance.
 
dr_dave said:
Roger,

It is good to see you posting again. It seems like you have been away for a long while.

Check out the video and other info here:


The Predator Revo and hollow Z-2 create much less CB deflection than a typical solid maple shaft.

Enjoy,
Dave
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Hi, Dave.

You said the Predator Revo shaft creates much less CB deflection than a typical solid maple shaft, but that has not been my experience in the one or two Revo shafts I have tested. I have another Revo shaft that I will test later today. If possible, I will post a video with the result.

Also, I enjoyed the video you earlier posted and I agree with all those things you listed as being the true advantages of carbon fiber shafts.

Thanks,
Roger
 
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