would like an opinion on treads

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I am using 3/8-10 pins on the cues that I am in the process of building. I like the solid feeling of the hit with a wood to wood joint. I have practiced the drilling and tapping on old bar one piece cues and am having trouble getting clean threads. I am using a 3/8-10 tap H2 from atlas supply. I have tried .315 sized holes down to .245 and they still feel alittle loose as I thread the cue together and the inner threads (the part that would contact the shaft of the pin) appear to be flat instead of the nice 60 degree point that I have seen on bought cues like my stambolini.I have also noticed that some of the threads appear to have crumbled or shredded. Am I using the wrong type of tap, or drill size? Btw, I have only done this into maple so far. :( I have tried to do it very slowly and back the tap out every 1/4" or so, I've tried 1 straight shot under power, without power, etc. and it's still coming out crummy. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave B.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Are u waxing the hole before u tap it?
Click to expand...

Thats the key. You need something in there to help tap the wood smoothly. I've even heard of people using spray lubricants. I haven't tried that one yet though.

Dave
 
3 in 1 oil also works well. But very important to know what screw you are using, to use the right drill for that screw.
 
Michael Webb said:
3 in 1 oil also works well. But very important to know what screw you are using, to use the right drill for that screw.
Click to expand...
N drill then bore?
Wax, and tap.
I tap with chuck released, hand crank.
 
Last edited:
JoeyInCali said:
N drill then bore?
Wax, and tap.
I tap with chuck released, hand crank.
Click to expand...

It depends where you buy the screws, I buy from Jan Mfg.
The minor is .280, The O.D. is .370, I had two taps made custom, 1 for wood and 1 for phenolic. I have always questioned the standard 3/8X10 regular tap, O.D. is about .384.
 
Dave38 said:
I am using 3/8-10 pins on the cues that I am in the process of building. I like the solid feeling of the hit with a wood to wood joint. I have practiced the drilling and tapping on old bar one piece cues and am having trouble getting clean threads. I am using a 3/8-10 tap H2 from atlas supply. I have tried .315 sized holes down to .245 and they still feel alittle loose as I thread the cue together and the inner threads (the part that would contact the shaft of the pin) appear to be flat instead of the nice 60 degree point that I have seen on bought cues like my stambolini.I have also noticed that some of the threads appear to have crumbled or shredded. Am I using the wrong type of tap, or drill size? Btw, I have only done this into maple so far. :( I have tried to do it very slowly and back the tap out every 1/4" or so, I've tried 1 straight shot under power, without power, etc. and it's still coming out crummy. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave B.
Click to expand...

David, when I first started I used drill bits until I got a set of boring bars. When I used drill bits, I would drill holes that I was going to tap in two steps. For 3/8-10, I would drill using a 1/4th bit, and then use a 5/16th bit to open the hole to size. This worked well, and I never had the problems you describing.

David, another method I have been using with success is boring out a 5/8 hole tapping and epoxying / screwing in a phenolic rod approximately one inch in depth. After the epoxy has dried, then bore or drill a 5/16 hole through the center of the phenolic rod that was inserted and tap the hole. This method can be used on the butt to set the pin, or in the shaft, or both ways. This method will give you strong threads that will not crumble and that will give the cue a solid feel. Also by doing this to the shaft, if the threads are ever damaged, the rod can be drilled out and a new rod can be inserted and tapped with no ill effects to the shaft.

Hope this helps, have a good night!!!!!!!!!!!
 
threads

All the above info was pretty much right on. That's why alot of people are going to a modified thread pin. Where you have a flat area between the threads.(increased minor diameter). It's near to impossible to tap(in wood) a 60 degree vee that comes to a perfect point at the top and bottom. Only way I've seen it done is with a thread mill. Go to DZ cues web site and look at his pin article. He's explains and shows it much better than I can.
 
Hi Dave; When I use a drill for the hole, whether in the butt joint or the shaft joint, I start with a 60 degree center drill. Then use a 9/32 drill, then a 5/16. Don't be in a hurry, this is the most important part of the Q. Go in a little, then pull out, clean off the drill & then drill deeper. After the 5/16 hole is done, blow out the shavings & counter sink the entrance to the hole. Chuck up the tap, in the tailstock & thread it in by hand, with the motor off. Again, don't be in a hurry. Go in a ways, then back out a 1/2 turn, to clear the shavings from the tap. When I'm done with the tap I dip a Q-tip in some soft past wax & swab the threaded hole. This seals the hole from moisture & produces a nice tight fit. By the way, no wax on holes to be glued. I prefer to use a boring bar & I start with a 9/32 hole, then use the boring bar to get my final hole size. Hope this helps...JER
 
Thread Cutting

Hi Dave:

Instead of using a center drill to start your hole buy a "CNC spotting drill" from
McMaster-Carr--it will not wander even in maple end grain. Also bore your hole with successively larger drills--use ONLY 3-fluted carbide to insure a dead straight hole (assuming your set-up is also straight, i.e. headstock to bed center alignment and THEN tailstock to headstock alignment. Shaft is to be supported in three place with collets and dead horizontal to the bed center). Purchase a tap holder from Cue Components and use it in your tailstock as directed. Turn by hand and use bees wax on the tap threads, clearing the chips with compressed air and backing out the tap every few turns. Threaded holes will then be sharp, clean, straight and on center. Place a few drops of thin CA glue on the threads and then vigrously shake out the excess glue. Your threads will be nice and tight.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues
 
wood threads

i experminted a lot trying to build a wood pin into wood threads. i have found the best for me is to use ca. after i drill the hole i saturate with ca and let dry overnight before i try to cut threads, use wax and go slow. i turn by hand and clean cutting tool and hole every 3 to 4 turns.
 
Dave, before you tap the hole apply some thin CA glue to soak into the wood and harden it up. Touch some beeswax to the tap and then tap the hole.
Again apply some CA glue into the now threaded hole, wait for it to set then tap again.
That should give you nice sharp threads.
 
Thanks for all the great input guys!
I take my time, use a center drill, and use small drills first, then step up. I also wax the tap, and my tailstock is loose. I have an old Atlas th54 lathe with a very heavy tailstock. I haven't thought of the CA trick on a clean hole. I have done it on the finished tapped hole(got that from Chris Hightower's book) The phenolic method sounds great, but does it affect the feel of the hit much? Also, I use a H2 type tap, is that good, or should I use a different type? Any ideas as to were to get a 60 degree threading bit for a dremel tool? like in DZ's video about ferrules.
Well, got to go and fix a finish issue(screwup), Have a good nite folks.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Thanks for all the great input guys!
I take my time, use a center drill, and use small drills first, then step up. I also wax the tap, and my tailstock is loose. I have an old Atlas th54 lathe with a very heavy tailstock. I haven't thought of the CA trick on a clean hole. I have done it on the finished tapped hole(got that from Chris Hightower's book) The phenolic method sounds great, but does it affect the feel of the hit much? Also, I use a H2 type tap, is that good, or should I use a different type? Any ideas as to were to get a 60 degree threading bit for a dremel tool? like in DZ's video about ferrules.
Well, got to go and fix a finish issue(screwup), Have a good nite folks.
Dave
Click to expand...
http://micro100.com/images/inch/TMDIAG.gif
http://micro100.com/
Solid carbide cutter head brazed to solid carbide shank for maximum rigidity.

TOOL # CUTTER DIA. SHANK DIA. FLAT SHANK LENGTH THICKNESS NUMBER OF FLUTES SUGGESTED T.P.I. RANGE
D1 D2 F L T
TM-375 3/8 1/4 .002 2 1/2 .093 4 12-32
TM-500 1/2 5/16 .0035 2 1/2 .125 5 11-32
TM-750 3/4 3/8 .0045 2 1/2 .156 6 3-16
TM-001 1 1/2 .009 3 .187 7 6-12



I use TM500
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://micro100.com/images/inch/TMDIAG.gif
http://micro100.com/
Solid carbide cutter head brazed to solid carbide shank for maximum rigidity.

TOOL # CUTTER DIA. SHANK DIA. FLAT SHANK LENGTH THICKNESS NUMBER OF FLUTES SUGGESTED T.P.I. RANGE
D1 D2 F L T
TM-375 3/8 1/4 .002 2 1/2 .093 4 12-32
TM-500 1/2 5/16 .0035 2 1/2 .125 5 11-32
TM-750 3/4 3/8 .0045 2 1/2 .156 6 3-16
TM-001 1 1/2 .009 3 .187 7 6-12



I use TM500
Click to expand...

Thanks, can you do 3/8 inside threads or are these only for outside?
 
Dave38 said:
Thanks, can you do 3/8 inside threads or are these only for outside?
Click to expand...
Only outside.
Get the TM375 if u want it smaller.
You also have these groung btw by someone who grinds carbide.
 
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