Wrap groove conversion

K

ken ken quarter

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is there an easy quick way to center up a finished wrapless butt to cut a wrap groove? Pin is in the way on one end and the hole in the buttcap may not be centered. Building new centers joint protecter shape then dialing the butt in using a butt taper bar is so slow I can't make any money doing rewraps if I need to cut a new groove. How have you solved this proceedure? I have a Logan dedicated to turning shafts or butts free turning between centers and a Logan with conventional spindle chuck/collet/dead center drive and an offsettable tailstock so any help offered will be attempted.

Thanks,
Ken Ken Quarters
Q-Spot Billiards
Tulsa, OK.
emailqspot@tulsacoxmail.com
 
ken ken quarter said:
Is there an easy quick way to center up a finished wrapless butt to cut a wrap groove? Pin is in the way on one end and the hole in the buttcap may not be centered. Building new centers joint protecter shape then dialing the butt in using a butt taper bar is so slow I can't make any money doing rewraps if I need to cut a new groove. How have you solved this proceedure? I have a Logan dedicated to turning shafts or butts free turning between centers and a Logan with conventional spindle chuck/collet/dead center drive and an offsettable tailstock so any help offered will be attempted.

Thanks,
Ken Ken Quarters
Q-Spot Billiards
Tulsa, OK.
emailqspot@tulsacoxmail.com
Click to expand...


Ken, what I do is use the hole in the butt cap, and a slide on collet on the forearm about inch from where you want to start the wrap groove.
If the cues butt cap is not centered, you can add some strips of masking tape to your live center and shim it, in the same manner you would use to even out points.

All I know is it works for me, not saying there is not other ways to do the job.

Hope this helps
 
ken ken quarter said:
Is there an easy quick way to center up a finished wrapless butt to cut a wrap groove? Pin is in the way on one end and the hole in the buttcap may not be centered. Building new centers joint protecter shape then dialing the butt in using a butt taper bar is so slow I can't make any money doing rewraps if I need to cut a new groove. How have you solved this proceedure? I have a Logan dedicated to turning shafts or butts free turning between centers and a Logan with conventional spindle chuck/collet/dead center drive and an offsettable tailstock so any help offered will be attempted.

Thanks,
Ken Ken Quarters
Q-Spot Billiards
Tulsa, OK.
emailqspot@tulsacoxmail.com
Click to expand...
i'm asssuming its not a pin with a center?

establish new centers on both ends,

i put an indicator on my toolpost, coming in from the side, just like your tool will be to cut groove.
offset tailstock accordingly until you are reading zero & zero at both ends of wrap groove.
i cut my wraps in after finishing, so this works for me
 
manwon said:
Ken, what I do is use the hole in the butt cap, and a slide on collet on the forearm about inch from where you want to start the wrap groove.
If the cues butt cap is not centered, you can add some strips of masking tape to your live center and shim it, in the same manner you would use to even out points.

All I know is it works for me, not saying there is not other ways to do the job.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

This is how I do it except I have a concave center big enough to cup the outside diameter of the buttcap.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
All of the above works, but if the butt section is a little warped you will be cutting deeper on one side, than the other...JER
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If after squaring both ends of the wrap channel with a single point close to the chuck using collets on forearm and butt sleeve, if the handle is warped I don't cut to proper depth but sand. When cutting the butt sleeve end of the channel I put a threaded maintenance collar with a 60 deg. center onto the pin and then use that with the tail-stock live center. If the cue is straight but the butt cap center is bad I just quickly make a snug fitting plug of maple, insert into butt cap and then put a center into it with a center cutter.

Dick
 
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One way to do it is too chuck up on the butt sleeve and slide the forearm through a live bearing steady rest and then use your router and taper bars to cut the groove. This method works best on cues that are not perfectly straight.

On really straight cues you can make a wood joint protector and screw it onto the joint of the butt and then drill a center hole in the end of it. That gives you your turning center for that end. I would chuck up on the large end or make a very snug fitting wood bumper plug and center drill it and run the whole thing between centers.

I cut the last couple of inches of the butt end to the desired wrap depth, then look at my dial numbers, and then back out the router and go up to the forearm and dial it in to the desired wrap depth. If the two dial numbers are not the same, because my taper bar is not set up exactly like that butt taper. I put the power feed in gear and dial in or out the numbers slowly as it cuts the groove until I am at the exact right number when I hit that last couple of inches that was already cut.
 
Ryan cut a wrap groove into a cue for me, and I don't know how you'd ever know it wasn't there to begin with.
 
Fantastic feedback...your sharing your methods is amazing! When I compare these quick, concise and informative to the point responses to the hours I have spent reviewing tapes for compairisons on cue repairs I am continually reminded of the blessing of this forum. Thank you all!

Have a wonderfull..no fantastic...no magnificent day!


Ken Ken Quarters
Q-Spot Billiards
Tulsa,OK.74135
emailqspot@tulsacoxmail.com
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, has anyone done this without taper bars - ie using a boring head to offset the tailstock

Thanks,
Cav
 
CavinTan said:
Sorry to revive an old thread, has anyone done this without taper bars - ie using a boring head to offset the tailstock

Thanks,
Cav
Click to expand...
Yeah that's possible too. I don't remember the equation right now, but that's easy to find.
 
Kim Bye said:
Yeah that's possible too. I don't remember the equation right now, but that's easy to find.
Click to expand...
Let me be more specific, no spur drivers. Cue is clamped in the jaws of the bore.

Saw some chinese cuemaker doing so, and it didnt make sense to me.
 
CavinTan said:
Let me be more specific, no spur drivers. Cue is clamped in the jaws of the bore.

Saw some chinese cuemaker doing so, and it didnt make sense to me.
Click to expand...
You cant offset you tailstock with the cue clamped in the chuck, you would be bending the cue. The best way I have found to cut the wrap groove on a finished cue is as how was described earlier in this thread. Chuck on to it just above the wrap and using a taper bar. If you wanted to use the offset tailstock method you would have to do it between centers. If this how you were going to do it the cue cant have any wobble at the A joint, and doing it single point would be quite difficult without chatter. You would have to do it with the router.
 
CavinTan said:
Let me be more specific, no spur drivers. Cue is clamped in the jaws of the bore.

Saw some chinese cuemaker doing so, and it didnt make sense to me.
Click to expand...
You would need to turn the cue between centers for that to work. If you chuck up the cue and then move the tailstock off center, it's likely you wil damage or even break the cue.
 
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