WTB 6 wing cutter and .250 arbor

[dakota]

6 wing sharpening

I am fairly new to cue building and I've only built around 10 cues so far. I use the 6801 6 wing that many have mentioned and I've tried the Freud 4 wing, but I'm just wondering if most people use that same cutter for all their wood cuts? In other words, if you are cutting down forearm and handle wood, do you use the same cutter? I've replaced 2 or 3 wing cutters already since they seemed to dull a little bit and then stop cutting smooth and can barber pole a shaft. Also do most of you sharpen your cutters, have them sharpened by a shop, or just buy new cutters when the time comes? I have just purchased new cutters, but I'm wondering if I'm wasting a ton of money by not having them sharpened?

Just to give you all the info, I am using a Hightower deluxe and the porter cable trim router all of which came from Hightower. I did buy Todds router mount and have the router mounted vertically when I make my cuts.

Thanks,

dakota

 

[JoeyInCali]

I am fairly new to cue building and I've only built around 10 cues so far. I use the 6801 6 wing that many have mentioned and I've tried the Freud 4 wing, but I'm just wondering if most people use that same cutter for all their wood cuts? In other words, if you are cutting down forearm and handle wood, do you use the same cutter? I've replaced 2 or 3 wing cutters already since they seemed to dull a little bit and then stop cutting smooth and can barber pole a shaft. Also do most of you sharpen your cutters, have them sharpened by a shop, or just buy new cutters when the time comes? I have just purchased new cutters, but I'm wondering if I'm wasting a ton of money by not having them sharpened?

Just to give you all the info, I am using a Hightower deluxe and the porter cable trim router all of which came from Hightower. I did buy Todds router mount and have the router mounted vertically when I make my cuts.

Thanks,

dakota

Make sure you use a fresh one when doing final passes.
If you are roughing up, leave them .010 oversized then take .010 on the last pass . It will have less push off and your pieces will be better.
If you don't mind the cost of 6801, just use one arbor and have several blades. It'd better to take that same arbor to the sharpener when you get the blades sharpened. Tell the sharpener to OD them all.
Mikea1saw@aol.com
I send my blades there for sharpening.
You can send yours on a Priority Fixed rate small box for some $5.50.
Include a return label. Talk to Mike.
The Freud 4-winger is pretty good but it does have a bit of run-out.
One blade will take a cut deeper than the other 3.
If you stopped the router while on top of wood after cutting, it might gouge the wood . I consider it a good rougher off the box.
Also when taking passes on phenolic, don't dig too much. They dull cutters really fast. .010" and 5 passes is a lot better than .050" in one pass. Same goes for ivory or any bones and metal rings.

One thing to realize is these slot cutters were actually not designed for wood turners. The 5/16 holes are actually closer to .315" or more. They designed them for slotting with bearings in the arbor acting as stopper ( 6801 is one of the exceptions ).
http://www.magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showProductGroup&theID=254
http://www.magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showProductGroup&theID=253
Table saw blades weren't designed for wood turners either. Afaik, they are better sharpened while on the taper machine. The hole and the arbor have a little play too. Which doesn't really matter when cutting slabs. It does when tapering. I saw an ebony piece here that went through a table saw taperer and it looked like it had gouges all over. My guess is the saw blade is wobbling a bit.
Btw, when using slot cutters, knock the RPM down to 18,000 or less.

Happy wood turning.

 

[GBCues]

I am fairly new to cue building and I've only built around 10 cues so far. I use the 6801 6 wing that many have mentioned and I've tried the Freud 4 wing, but I'm just wondering if most people use that same cutter for all their wood cuts? In other words, if you are cutting down forearm and handle wood, do you use the same cutter? I've replaced 2 or 3 wing cutters already since they seemed to dull a little bit and then stop cutting smooth and can barber pole a shaft. Also do most of you sharpen your cutters, have them sharpened by a shop, or just buy new cutters when the time comes? I have just purchased new cutters, but I'm wondering if I'm wasting a ton of money by not having them sharpened?

Just to give you all the info, I am using a Hightower deluxe and the porter cable trim router all of which came from Hightower. I did buy Todds router mount and have the router mounted vertically when I make my cuts.

Thanks,

dakota

Dakota,

FWIW, it costs me $8 to get my 6-wings sharpened and he does a pretty good job of trueing them up, so yeah, you might want to see if you can find someone to sharpen them. I take them over to my local Woodcraft store and they send them off for me - back in a week. Or Joey seems to have a good source above.

As for the barber-poling of shafts - what rpm are you spinning your shafts at? I had the same problem early on. With the suggestions of others here, I now slow mine down to about 350 rpm +/- and take a real slow, light (0.03 or less) pass. If you spin too fast, they will tend to push out more and you will get stripes.

HTH

Gary

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

I don't even have a tool post router braket yet.

Well then, let me recommend Todd's. His works like a charm.

Not a bad price on the cutters and arbor. Thanks. Always good to have a spare.

I got mine from Cue Components. No more chatter grooves. Barely need sandpaper as it comes out smooth as a baby's bum.