You get one shot

Aaron_S

Aaron_S

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You have a tough match coming up on a table you have never played on. You only have a few seconds, just enough time to shoot one shot to help you learn a bit about the table before your match starts. What shot do you shoot? Please use Wei table if your shot requires much explanation.

Aaron
 
Neil said:
I'm taking a draw bank shot. That way I can see what my draw does on the table, check the tables speed, and see how at least one spot on one rail reacts. During this shot, I am being careful to know exactly what I did, so I can compare it to my mental file of what I am used to. I then can make adjustments as needed.
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Good call...

I would pocket a ball on the end rail and go short 2rails- prob w/ draw, as opposed to follow- trying to freeze to opposite end rail. See speed and spin effects.

WEI registration fail
 
Good question.

My first shot on any table I have never played on is a kick shot from the corner pocket to the side pocket using a medium speed draw stroke. No object ball. I just want to see if the shot carries the cue ball to the pocket appropriately. That is a very telling shot on a table and allows me to make adjustments as needed.
 
Wheeljack said:
Good question.

My first shot on any table I have never played on is a kick shot ...want to see if the shot carries the cue ball to the pocket appropriately. That is a very telling shot on a table and allows me to make adjustments as needed.
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I would like to change my tester- I would do the 3 rails from one corner pocket to the other.
 
I like 3-rails corner to corner. I would put speed as #1 priority and cushion response as #2, so the 3-railer at pocket speed is pretty informative. Not sure, but a long stop shot might be my second shot if I were able to shoot two shots. As Neil said, something to help gauge draw would be very helpful.

Thanks for the responses,
Aaron
 
Yeah, the 3 rail shot is a really good test of a table. I use that one rail kick because that is the shot I have to perform the most in a game/match when my opponent leaves me hooked... :)
 
Forgot to mention that another reason I like the 3-railer is because I often use spot on the wall for 3 rail kicks, and that first kick helps me find my spot.

Aaron
 
First off

you would have more time to shoot more than 1 shot before the match, because most players are considerate enough to let their opponent warmup a little if they need to.

But if you could only shoot one shot, then I am with Neil on this one.
 
if I just get one then I go for the 3 rail corner to corner to see if the table runs long or short and just by how much. To me, id rather know that one piece of info for kicking and position play more than any other.

If I have time for a few more I usually shoot a long rail straight back with draw and english to see how much the ball turns over on a long rail straight back with english. If the cloth is new I will also shoot a force follow shot with inside into the side to see if the table slides alot and whether i can force a ball downtable past the side with inside or if it dies on the rail bc of slide.

a few more shots and i like to roll balls down the side rails slowly to see if the table rolls out and then across the middle corner to corner, again slowly to see if the table rolls out.
 
Surprise!

Aaron_S said:
I like 3-rails corner to corner. I would put speed as #1 priority and cushion response as #2, so the 3-railer at pocket speed is pretty informative. Not sure, but a long stop shot might be my second shot if I were able to shoot two shots. As Neil said, something to help gauge draw would be very helpful.

Thanks for the responses,
Aaron
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Me too. (roll off/speed/short-long). Of course-out of the other 3 corners-maybe not the same. But, for one shot-the speed info would be useful-until the table tells you otherwise.

In a game without warm ups-I think most of us would hit stop shots/rolling follow and test the draw on shots where position for a hanger is not a factor, at the early stages of a match. With more results and information-maybe we then shoot more complicated shots-or not.

Idunno.
 
3RAILKICK said:
Me too. (roll off/speed/short-long). Of course-out of the other 3 corners-maybe not the same. But, for one shot-the speed info would be useful-until the table tells you otherwise.

In a game without warm ups-I think most of us would hit stop shots/rolling follow and test the draw on shots where position for a hanger is not a factor, at the early stages of a match. With more results and information-maybe we then shoot more complicated shots-or not.

Idunno.
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3RAILKICK likes the 3-rail kick. Whodathunkit? :wink:

Aaron
 
Four to five rails...

Cueball on the left side at the headstring, aiming near the rightmost diamond on the foot rail.

Cueball drops into corner pocket next to that footrail diamond.

Watch the responses from the rails, and listen for those nasty "clunk" noises from any loose rails.

And the intimidation factor is great when the cueball drops...
 
exactly

Aaron_S said:
I like 3-rails corner to corner. I would put speed as #1 priority and cushion response as #2, so the 3-railer at pocket speed is pretty informative. Not sure, but a long stop shot might be my second shot if I were able to shoot two shots. As Neil said, something to help gauge draw would be very helpful.

Thanks for the responses,
Aaron
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thats what i would do
 
Depends on what game I am playing. One pocket-the three rail shot. 9 ball, I would want to shoot a hard shot down the long rail with draw, to test the pockets.
 
Deadon said:
Depends on what game I am playing. One pocket-the three rail shot. 9 ball, I would want to shoot a hard shot down the long rail with draw, to test the pockets.
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Totally agree. I would hit a firm one down the rail with a little angle and draw it back around to the center of the table. If its 9 ball I want to see how excepting the pockets are especially down the rail and especially with some speed. Also see how whitey is acting of the rails and noticing how much it rolls out for speed.
 
I once read in a pool book (byrnes i think) about the diamond system and 14.1 position play, and in that book there is one shot every pool player need to master. In that particular shot you place the CB in the center of the table. Aim at the 7th diamond - diamond between right corner and middle pocket. You apply some left spin. The CB travels then from the middle, to the 7th diamond, til the 2nd diamond on the short rail, then to the another 7th diamond on the other rail and last back to the center (2-7-2 system may be the name of it). If applied correctly, the ball should end up on the exact same spot you start (but probably near it). And when I do this I get the speed of the table, the spin of the rails and a general feel of the table. No need of pocketing balls. My eyes would tell me if the pockets are tight, tough, easy to cheat, or whatever. But hey, I am only 18 years old and I don't compete in pool on a regular basis, but I do shoot 50+ in Straight Pool and I believe this is the one and only best way to get a correct impression of a table when you only have one shot to try.

In addition, this is my first post here, so hello guys. And sorry if my english ain't the greatest sometimes.

/N
 
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