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A conversation with Anthony Meglino: The best player many people have never heard of...

jtompilot
SSDiver2112 said:
He plays on the Brunswick when he is there. The Gandy’s are sold and they will be getting Diamonds soon.
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That’s good to know. I’ve been there a few times and never cared for the place much. One of the 1P tables drifted bad. I always got action at Lucky 7 so that was my go to spot when I’m in the area.
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Sold Belgian Aramith Duramith Tournament Ball SET--NEW

P
mikemosconi said:
For sale a brand new set of 2 1/4 Belgian Aramith Duramith Tournament balls. The ball set is new in the original box- has only been opened for inspection and is in perfect condition. No cue has ever touched these balls. Considered by many to be the finest balls available for play- this ball set is the newer Aramith Duramith technology set- so they are the higher priced set out there today. Actual photos - so you KNOW - the BEST!
Here is the LOWEST price brand new set of these balls available anywhere that I could find in the market---shipped to your door --- in the lower 48 via FED EX for ONLY $279 all inclusive.
I accept Pay Pal F&F--- Zelle, or cash app.View attachment 843030View attachment 843031View attachment 843032
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Could it be $240 ?
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Sourcing parts, controllers and software for cue cnc build

icbm
DeeDeeCues said:
Might help to be specific in your needs.

As far as educating yourself, I'm sure there are other paths, but mine included a degree in mechanical engineering and fifteen years working at a company that designed and built extremely large and extremely precise machines. Suffice to say that it isn't the sort of a thing one would normally just learn on their own over a short time.

When it comes to building a cnc for personal use, it is likely going to be a compromise between doing it right and doing it right enough. In my case, the 'right enough' was mostly limited by money. In many cases, 'right enough' will be limited by knowledge. As an example, I see a lot of people using round linear rails when profile rails are superior in nearly every way.

On top of the things that may seem easy, the devil is in the details. Are you doing your own machining? Are you starting with a machine and modifying it? Are you able to accurately measure everything when you are assembling it? Can you calculate the axis inertia ratios, and understand what they mean?

Not to discourage you by any means, and you are welcome to PM me with specific questions as they arise.

But...

...I have seen you ask a lot of questions about cnc machines and I know that you own a relatively substantial gantry-style machine. With the right accessories, that machine is capable of doing most everything a cuemaker needs. Why don't you build a removable 4th axis that indexes on the bed of that machine? figure out how to add whatever workholding and tailstock features you need.

My cnc took me the better part of a year to build (I did machining and had a full-time job), cost a decent chunk of change, and I still make modifications/additions to it. I can't imagine what it would have taken in money or time if I didn't have the background I have. I also only really built the cnc because I wanted to do it as professional development, to be the sole engineer, machinist, assembler, debugger, etc. on a machine.

All of this is to say that if you want to build cues, there are plenty of easier and cheaper routes than designing and building your own cnc.
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First, thank you for your reply.
I had decided to take another look at a different (& hopefully) CNC figure out if it was worth getting another CNC. I lose space leaving the 4th axis once its dialed in. I discovered my I2R CNC I will have to remove one of the spoiler boards the 4th Axis would have to stay on the bed of the cnc if I used it for tapering and reestablishing the location of the headstock & tail stock locations. As a router there really isn't anything I'd gripe about and for 3D carving ability alone it's a great machine for the gifts & Trophies I'd use it for but I won't limit my work space so a cheap taper option is worth a look but it is NOT a deal breaker if I'd have to fiddle with it
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Experiments in looking at the cueball while delivering the stroke.

gregcantrall
A miners observation of the middle finger tap is reinforcing my ring finger tap. It brings me to the Barry Stark coaching of ring finger as the trigger. I use the ring finger tap to remind myself. 🤷‍♂️ 😉 old timers method.
Perhaps my earliest piano lessons are now paying a dividends. Goat milkers grip is set soft yet powerful.
The first advantage I see is in watching the cue tip interaction is interesting and educational. Data for the memory banks.
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Wood Polisher on a custom cue

Bavafongoul
Not sure how to answer you since words have different meanings and connotations to different people.
When I think of slick, I racall different products I tried over the years like Q- Slick which was awful, in
addition to others I’ve tried like Longini, etc. All of them were crap and the shaft felt like it had a film on it.

You are better off buying a hard paste automobile wax with the highest Carnuba Wax content you can find.
40 years ago I started out using Classic Car Wax and gradually experimented and learned along the way.
Renaissance wax leaves a shiny finish that’s completely smooth to your touch, excluding any nicks, dents, etc.

However, removing nicks, dents, scrapes, scuffs on a wood shaft can be done with a little patience and know how.
My Palmer shafts from the 60’s and are as smooth as any you’ll find. So are my Runde Schon shafts made in 1984.
You can pick any shaft in my collection or from the 12 shafts in my cue case. Every single one is straight and smooth.

In reply to your question…….No, Renaissance Wax does not, cannot, will not impart any stickiness to your cue shafts.

p.s. Shaft feel is everything to me since I’ve never worn a glove and mainly play using a tightly curled closed bridge.
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