Bob Jewett said:

They seem to open at 11AM. Any idea why they don't start earlier?

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They only open before 1pm if there’s a big tournament like the local APA MVP tournament with 100+ players


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Kris_b1104 said:

If you're looking for action in the Springs, just go play in this. $10K in prize fund potentially.

View attachment 877863

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10 players over 650. I don’t like my odds.


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for inside the house a furniture looking piece is the way to go. otherwise your house looks like a bar.
find a used olhausen in great shape and they are really good. just have pockets that rattle the balls if not hit well. and can be adjusted to eliminate much of that when installed.
or an old brunswick wooden table if you can find one.
i have both and they are great. and drop pockets are quiet if you have others in your house.

get the 8 foot if you can. 7 foot is not going to be fun after awhile. if you can get from inside the cushion(playing surface) to the wall of 5 feet you are good.

not many shots are straight away and on the cushion. and even those you get by fine.

Budget?

lfigueroa said:

It's not even an honorable loss -- you are paying him directly to kick your ass.

Lou Figueroa
nothing similar to
a tournament draw

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Oh c'mon Lou there is plenty of honor, you get to choose banks or one pocket AND you can alternate the beatings so it's not just in one discipline.

cue fix said:

What wrap are you having put on? The same or something different to change things up?

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Thought I would put a leather wrap on it, not sure of style yet maybe ostrich.

When you say loft, what do you mean? I ask because if you want a commercial 7’ table your lower price option is a used valley which you can tighten up with ridgeback or penguin rails. That means one piece slate.

I had a Brunswick home 8’ table for many years. It was pretty good. Toward the end of my having it I had it shimmed up to 4.5” pockets. It played OK. I wanted a commercial level table. So it was Rasson, Brunswick, or Diamond 8’ or Rasson or Diamond 7’. I didn’t want a Valley, but I thought about it. I decided to go with a Diamond 7’ table because that is the most typical league or tournament table I play on and it fits well in the room. An 8’ table fits as well, but a 9’ wouldn’t. I went with 7’ because it is typical and not in between. If I play on a 9’ it is usually a Diamond and you just have to adjust. I’m happy with my decision. It plays way better than my older table IMO.

I would not be happy with a home style 7’ table. Remember they are a little smaller than a commercial 7’ table. Check the play field dimensions.

Anyway, if you want a commercial table you should get one if there is any way you can. If you get a home table I’d pass on the 7’ and probably get an 8’ like I had as
It is a little bigger than a commercial 7’. Typically 44x88 for the home 8’ vs 40x80 playfield for commercial 7’. You won’t ever love it probably. But it will play alright with good cloth.

I’d really try to save for a Diamond and you can get a 3 piece slate in the 7’if you need to to get the table installed. If that is not possible I’d think about a Valley with good cloth and ridgeback/ penguins way before a home 7’. IMO

dendweller said:

I was thinking about changing the shaft insert thread (thin phenolic like the one in your picture) from radial to 3/8 10. I've never drilled or bored phenolic, done a number of them using maple. I was just going to use a mini carbide boring bar to get it out to about .5", plug it with maple and tap for 3/8 10. It's my own shaft so if the maple doesn't work out I can always try a different material. I'm assuming the phenolic is over .5" but I don't really know, guess I'd find out though. Any input is welcome. Thanks

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those are threaded plugs into the shaft, i would bore & thread phenolic back in to plug it if u can..

chuckpilegis said:

Thats what I thought was cool about it.Just lucky I guess. Bought arm at amazon. Stem of arm is 10/32 or 5mm same as nuts in headstock. You are able to fold arm out of the way or fold it forward to measure your carriage travel. Most indicator bases were at least 1/4x20 or larger from what I remember

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you're saying your headstock already came with a spare nut in the housing?

I've done a lot of research and looking while helping a friend get a table for his house.

What we came to conclusion on was that the furniture tables, you're buying the name only. Unless they're custom or stupid high end, they're all made of cheap shit and will fall apart if actually played on. Doesn't matter the brand, they're all going to be furniture pieces vs playable tables. I swear they're all made in the same factory with a different badge slapped on em.

We decided that getting an older table that was kept in good condition was the realistic avenue. We ended up finding an 8ft Gold Crown 3 in great shape. He paid a good chunk of change for it (I think it was like $1,800) but it was still wayyy cheaper than a brand new furniture table, and we all know how amazing GC3's play and look.

So, you got a few options. Either go with a high end older table like a GC3 and never regret it, or roll the dice that you'll be able to like a valley table. Valley's are cheap, plentiful, built like brick shithouses, and you can upgrade them til your heart is content. Only real downside to owning a valley is they make your house look like a bar room and less of a rec room, and the name valley and it's associated crap it gets. I personally love valley's that are doctored up to play well. My buddy bought one for $800 from a rental place, then threw penguin rails and simonis cloth on it. Can't tell the difference playing on that vs a diamond in my opinion.

garczar said:

good call. it is 'Guffey-like' for sure.

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I have the 'Only' 3C (1991) cue John ever built!

sjm said:

Absolutely right! An amateur player will learn nothing in this situation. The only thing you get for your $100 is the chance to meet Fedor and a chance to say "I played pool against Fedor Gorst" for the rest of your life. To many, that's worth $100, and to many it is not. Each must make his/her own decision.

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It's not even an honorable loss -- you are paying him directly to kick your ass.

Lou Figueroa
nothing similar to
a tournament draw

You may also want to consider whether a one-piece slate is an option, as a trip upstairs with a one piece may be far more difficult than three trips with a less cumbersome load. If you find a Valley or similar bar table that you like, there are after market rail upgrades available (e.g. Penguin) that can improve the way they play, as well as tighten the pockets.

https://penguin-brand.com/collections/pool-table-rails/products/pro-pocket-rails

Places that sell pool tables, or "amusement" vendors that supply them to bars sometimes have used tables sitting in storage. It can't hurt to ask. They might move it for you, as well.

skor said:

I don't know why certain ex-top players choose KW, maybe they've tried CF and now they try the next thing, maybe the old saying that you can't teach new tricks to old dogs is true here and they just prefer wood or just can't get used to the CF color.

Here is another observation, all these players are Americans. I believe that KW is an American thing. Just like custom made cues. Yes there is a big market for custom cues in Asia but they are more into the big cues with a lot of bling for collecting and less for playing while a lot of Americans will get a custom cue, even a simple one for craftsmanship, for supporting local builders and some believe that they play better, this is the same snake oil for KW shafts that the rest of the world probably don't fall for... most production cue makers don't offer KW, it is mostly a custom cue maker thing.

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Off the top of my head....

Meucci
Lucasi
Pechauer
Joss
Jacoby
Mcdermott (if you ask)
Schmelke
Pure X

All of these companies and more produce a kielwood.