jkan101 said:

What size thread is a cue tec drive pin...Thanks

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What did cuetec say when you called them?

David in FL said:

True story...

I played one session of APA years ago without knowing what I was getting myself into.

My first game of 8-ball I was about to make the 8 and the captain screamed for a timeout and explained that I had to "mark" my very obvious pocket.

A bit confused but willing to play along, I pulled out my wallet and placed it next to the pocket. I was told that for some inexplicable reason, neither the wallet or any kind of money was allowed as a marker.

To the horror of half the players there, I replaced my wallet with the small .380 pocket pistol I was carrying and made my shot.

I didn't last long in APA...

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How about my drink, can I mark the $#cking pocket with my drink? If not I would use my cue case.

boogieman said:

Go to google, type this:



The search function here is kind of suspect but that "hack" will get you a ton of info.

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Common Cuetec joint sizes

• 3/8x14: This is a very common size for Cuetec, particularly for shafts like the Cynergy and AVID lines.
• 3/8x10: Another size available, especially on some Cynergy shaft models.
• 5/16x18: This is another common joint style.
• 5/16x14: Available for some models, often compatible with other brands.
• Radial: A joint size offered on some of Cuetec's shafts.

Milkman said:

It'd be a foul in competition, right?
Ignore the rail for a second and imagine you hit with follow when two balls are frozen; most games require a 45° downward cueing angle to avoid double-kiss.

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I don't feel it would be a foul. With the upstroke, you don't double hit the cue ball. The shaft gets out of the way. I did have that slow mo close up angle. I think that shows that it isn't a double hit. Or maybe I needed to go slower.

This is all I could gather from the Predator website

Island Drive said:

Simonis cutter above....
Never use a rack that has Sharp/Corners like the above picture.

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All corners are chamfered and then powder coated. I guess the pics don't clearly show it.
A local room has been using them for months with no issue.

mareh said:

I think feel gets developed, therefore i think you need to start with a point.

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Very good. Start with a point. If you miss, take the shot again, adjusting for a thicker or thinner cut, until you develop "aim and feel".

DrCue'sProtege said:

It's now been two months since I ordered my new Diamond Professional table. About time to contact Diamond again for an update. Probably just drop them an email or give them a call. Then again, I might just drive down to the factory.

Any of you posters have a recommendation?

r/DCP

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Go to the factory....they gonna load you in the wood chipper.

DrCue'sProtege said:

No, that's not what they said.

They said 4-6 months.

They even said it's possible it could be a little sooner.

Who knows, I might be just a little over a month away.

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Do you understand 4-6 months means 5months/29 days most of time. And like a restaurant if you bitch enough they spit on the wood

Simonis cutter above....
Never use a rack that has Sharp/Corners like the above picture.

conscription........... to please your humor.

They make snooker cues in Thailand.
They don't have pool cues on their website which leads me to think that it's just rebranded.
$400 seems a bit too much for it.... but if it plays well for you than it's worth every penny

Bob Jewett said:

I've had a couple of billionaires as students. The problem is that while they may have some interest in pool, they tend to have other, very strong interests. Like:

View attachment 868459

More recently, there was the billionaire who sponsored a three-cushion tournament in New York. I think he doesn't do billiards any more, showing that if you depend on a single person for a program, a whim can make it disappear. The rumor was that the tournament cost in the low eight digits.

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There is a billionaire in Texas that has a collection like that of jet fighter aircraft. You are right about their interest changing. My video was just me daydreaming out loud.

Burns said:

When I saw the Infuzed spliced Kielwood shafts, I thought it would be worth a try, as it would give me back the feel but still be very low deflection. It arrived this morning, and due to my main cue with the Revo being a 3/8-10 modified pin, I had to use the Infuzed on my old favorite player, a Varney custom with regular 3/8-10 pin. It's a 12.5mm shaft, btw.

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There are two types of InFuze shafts:
1. Spliced maple - 10 pieces of maple, similar to the Predator 314/Z shafts
2. Kielwood - this a solid piece of torrefied maple
If you got the spliced shaft then it's not kielwood or if you got the kielwood then it's not spliced.
Both shafts are cored with a carbon fiber rod at the front end of the shafts, that's the idea behind the InFuze

I wonder why the shaft doesn't fit your modified 3/8x10 cue, most after market shafts tap the threads in a way that it would fit. Have you tried to screw it on the other butt?
I have a Rhino CF shaft with 3/8x10 threads that fitted some of my 3/8x10 modified butts but some didn't fit, I tapped it myself to get it looser and it fits them all now.

What's the weight of the shaft?
I got mine with 5/16x14 joint and it's 4.3oz which is too heavy for me