They look to be too much cleaner to me. When blowing up your pictures the balls appear to be coated. That comes from trying to clean them multiple times in a row with full strength solution, especially when trying to make old balls shine like new. Not only will you get marks like that when doing this, the balls will not play right.
When I built my Diamond clone ball polisher and first started using it, I got marks like that. I really got those marks when I offered to do a set of well used balls on one of the bars I go to tables for them. Polished them once and didn't see much difference, so I polished them multiple times. Went back a couple days later and the balls looked terrible. Just full of those collision marks. Did the same thing On my good set of balls at home, polished them a couple times in a row and got collision marks like that.
While the balls will look shinny, if you look close they will have a somewhat ripple look to them. That is polish build up. I quickly learned to only polish once, and dilute the Aramith polish about 20% with alcohol, then only use about 2 drops per 8 balls per cycle. I polish the balls I use at home about every two weeks, they look like new, play like new, have no wax build up, and have no collision marks now.
Others on here use a much more diluted solution of Aramith, but spray it on and have good results, so are probably ending up with the same amount of solution on the balls.
So to summarize, by what I see in your pictures, it looks like collision marks, and or cue tip marks from using too much cleaner. You need to get that buildup off, manually or by playing a lot without cleaning them again. Then go to regular Aramith cleaner in small quantities. Do not ever put a drop of cleaner on ea ball.
Two drops per 8 balls is plenty. The balls in your picture have a very coated look.

Quigley Down Under is a study in the prep and stance. The precision of the adherence to the dance.
Login to view embedded media Sometimes the dance is a waltz, others a Cha Cha.
He said he could fight quote would substitute uh dance for fight. Peace out Dude
Make love NOT War.
On the Fields of Friendly Strife.

If this is for an estate, asking on a forum is probably the wrong strategy. Pay for a proper LOA and appraisal. Just my opinion.

u12armresl said:

1.4K views · 394 reactions | Another early loss… Day 10 playing 9 ball until I break and run. #billiardschallenge #poolplayer #billiards #billiardslife #9ball | Ryan Plays Pool

Another early loss… Day 10 playing 9 ball until I break and run. #billiardschallenge #poolplayer #billiards #billiardslife #9ball

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Look at his first shot.

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OP.... needs a good editor.

Cornerman said:

My wrong opinion.

1970-1972 Ginacue due to the block letter GINACUE of that timeline
BR Titleist - definitely not an original Ernie-built forearm
Value Range: whatever people want to spend on it.

• $2000 minimum, I think.
• The nostalgia is what's going to drive the price.
• Consider that this cannot be built again by Ernie.
• Ernie was not big on sharp point cues
  

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When I was at his shop he briefly showed me how he developed his way of doing his pointed cues now.
The outside black veneer is slightly rounded at the tip however the inside points are sharp, but not deep V carved in.
Very brilliant way of keeping everything lined up and symmetric around the forearm.

Mensabum said:

Is that mold I see?? Have you checked the straightness of both the shafts and butt??
That much mold, if it is indeed mold, means a lot of moisture got in there. I'd be surprised if it's straight. I hope it is for your sake and best of luck w the sale!!

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I'm not sure what you are looking at to see mold?
This cue shows zero signs of mold in any of my pictures.
I believe you may be misguided by the phenolic which is an early form of building material used.
It has white/gray colored linen in it unlike the phenolic used today which has black linen in it and a more uniform overall color of black.
About the only thing I would do to this cue is MAYBE install a tip on the tipless shaft. That is it....period, end of story.

ibuycues said:

I largely agree with this. The wrap looks decent. Any cuemaker worth his salt could give the cue a good cleaning
and you’d be surprised how good it can look. All the shafts look iffy. Thin, probably warped, not sure.
Certainly I would NOT refinish anything on the cue. What you have was done by the Master. Don’t rid yourself of some of his work. Reminds me of the guy that won an Olympic Gold medal, liked it so much he had it bronzed.
And it wouldn’t have to be a cuemaker to make it look better. You could do it in your chair watching TV and make it look presentable.***Do NOT mess with the wrap. Leave it alone, just wipe it.***

You could not pry that from me for $2000, it would take more. Just an opinion.

Will Prout

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Haha....some people!
100% agree.
Do NOTHING to this cue but a light clean up.

dr_dave said:

In pool, the CB is stationary so you know exactly where it will be at the moment of contact, and no fast reaction is required.

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A stationary CB is exactly why I don’t drink alcohol until after I am done playing pool.