Heavy Jump/Break Cue Feasibility

So, I've had this idea rolling around in my head for a while and would like your guys' opinions on how feasible something like this would be.

My buddy has a Jacoby Heavy Hitter break cue and I love that thing. I barely have to swing it and the rack explodes. I also like the idea of Jump/Break combo cues. But it's my understanding that as far as jump cues go, lighter is better. That may be a massive generalization, but you probably get my point.

Anyway, how feasible/practical would it be to make the jump part of the cue like normal, but make the handle/butt section extra heavy by introducing a combination pin/weight bolt to keep the weight at the front of the handle area? It would essentially be like the bolt that goes in the A joint of most short splice cues. But instead of being a single thread, part of it would be permanently threaded into the grip/hand section and the other part would be like a normal joint pin that threads into the jump section so it can be taken apart for jumping.

Scruggs Plain Jane

Good to know. Really good to know. But what about Scrugg's Plain Janes? Surely, enjoying the access you did . . .

Thanks for your reply. It really is good information for us all to have.

What occurs to me is that it is a simple hop, skip, and jump* from a Sneaky Pete to a Plain Jane, and if I was going to do one, why not . . . Am I wrong about the distance from one to the other? Perhaps it was simply a business decision -- was it that Sneaky Petes were Scrugg's bread and butter? If so, do other cue makers follow his example?

*In fact, a Sneaky Pete might require more work because of the points. I always assumed Scrugg's Sneaky Petes were full splice. If this is true . . .
A Point A to Point B sneaky probably does require more work than a plain jane, or at least a similar amount when taking rings, wraps, and such into consideration. But most cue makers purchase their sneaky blanks so they're not the ones doing the full splice aspect of the build. They're "just" finishing the blank, adding the joint, and making a shaft. I put "just" in quotes because there's obviously more work to it than that. But based on my limited knowledge of cue making, building a good full splice blank isn't exactly as easy falling off a log unless you have a process set up for making them in large volume. Also, as far as Tim goes, he wasn't even making his SP's for a large portion of his career. Bob Frey made them for him in the same shop.

Gold Crown 1 rehab. Lots of questions...

@bradsh98 You wouldn't have a drawing of the pocket angles, would you?

I looked at your thread on subrail mods above and have a comment or two.

Your fixturing is good and I'm sure it works. I probably will do mine differently only because I only plan on fixing mine, will probably never see another set.

First, If you have room for it, a good table saw. Cabinet grade, stay away from the contractor saws. New is pricey, but an old Powermatic model 66 or Rockwell/Delta Unisaw can be had on the used market for considerably less.

To use with the current set up I would use a router with an adjustable angle base in place of the circular saw. A router and a stable guide will give you as good a finish as you are going to get, far superior to what you can get with a circular saw. Honestly, a better finish that even the table saw.

That's been my experience in my 40 years of making sawdust anyway. Hope it helps.

GENDER IN POOL ... Do Men Play Better Than Women? ... Recent Legal Trial

Here's an interesting gender performance fact: Ga Young Kim's scoring average in this event final.
She got the makeover right; all trim too.

40-Second Video McDermott Making a CF-inside G-Core Shaft for a G229 Cue

Likely materials: 29" wooden shaft with at least 6 inches cored out, 7" carbon-fiber tube, 7" wooden dowel, ½" ferrule with open top and bottom, cue tip, super glue. Uses a rubber band, two glue applicators, and plastic gloves. The picture below left shows three parts to the shaft: inside the wooden shaft is a carbon-fiber rod, and inside it is another wooden shaft.

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McDermott G-core figure.jpg
G-core figure 3 pieces.jpg

Scruggs Plain Jane

I don’t think his plain Jane’s are particularly rare or seldom sold compared to his other cues. Maybe they are just popping up for sale less now that he’s passed away. I’ve seen plenty over the years, many on AZ billiards. He built them from maple, cocobolo, ebony, bacote, and probably other woods.

His earlier ones I have seen were maple with white delrin buttcap and 5/16x14 piloted steel joint. Often stained different colors.

Towards the middle and end of his career we saw a lot more built with a Hoppe style buttcap with ivory ring. These had both his 5/16x14 piloted steel joint and sometimes his big pin flat faced joint with 3/8x10 or radial pin.

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