Meucci repair notice....

I recently sent a 2009 SE IV into Meucci to be repaired and to be matched up to a new pro shaft. It was not a fast process but l have other cues so l didn't care. This cue was in real bad shape some may have scrapped the project. I sent it into Meucci with broken collar, beaten butt and dents and chips from pin to butt. I had bought it off market place and it had been seriously been abused. When l got it back it looked like new and had never been used. The pro shafts are not cheap and play very well. But the craftsmanship on the repair was beyond anything l expected. The amount of work they did fot the little money l paid l still cant belive it. I could call and talk to the tech. anytime but choose to leave him alone so he could work on my stick and that he did.
That's good news. I have a Meucci Originals that is like that but with a genuine NOS shaft. It needs a joint collar, butt cap, and refinish, as well as the ring on the new shaft matched. I have had it since about 2004 and never sent it in because I was afraid of the nightmare. Since it needs a butt cap I didn't want to send it anywhere else.

I got it dirt cheap. It is the only Meucci I have. As it sits that NOS shaft is probably worth more than the butt, LOL!

New WPA Official Rules of Pool … Learn About All the Changes

The notion of in/out of the kitchen is the standard way it it defined in all other pool games.

Launching the ball off the table has been removed, as you noted. This is being used in more tournaments and I think is the right way to do it there. Private matches are up to the players.

Whether jump cues are allowed is up to the event organizer. I think they shouldn't be a part of either 14.1 or one pocket.

Rerack came in when most events moved to "rack your own". Pocketing a ball from your own rack seemed suspect, so the rerack came in. For major events, it is assumed referees will be racking. The event organizer could still specify a rerack. Note that some implementations of that rule seem to not cover some cases so an organizer who uses a rerack rule needs to figure out a clear, complete written rule. The traditional rule is no rerack -- the breaker continues if he makes a ball in his pocket.
There should be a jump cue rule for 14.1 and one pocket. At least an explicit mention that it is up to the organizer. Especially one pocket. The jump cue really ruins that game more than any other. The logical default rule for me is that if the particular game has a ball in hand penalty for a foul, jump cues allowed. (Not bih in kitchen, but bih anywhere). One pocket, 14.1 no jump cue.

Ref rack should be no rerack for made balls IMO. I would also have a gratuitous rack inspection rule. 10 seconds with the player’s head not breaking the vertical plane of the outside rail when ref racking. Violation is loss of game and opponent breaks that rack. 😜

How to find a good Pool instructor?

The right instructor, (I prefer Coach) will help you establish a training program. The program will be geared to your goals. That conversation with Backward Jan came right after go back to the Basics.
My budget
allowed for an hour every morning. Following a program or prescription. My goal was and is recreation. Banging balls for the same time is going in the wrong direction by reinforcing less than optimal methods and habits.

Mike Sigel's American Billiard League

Am I understanding this right?

When he says "play a rack of 8 ball", The player is simply breaking and playing by himself? Playing an 8 ball ghost? Adding points until he misses and then moving to the next rack?

Here are the rules. I didn’t go through in detail, looks like players get to pick up the cue ball multiple times per rack for BIH?

Scruggs Plain Jane

A Point A to Point B sneaky probably does require more work than a plain jane, or at least a similar amount when taking rings, wraps, and such into consideration. But most cue makers purchase their sneaky blanks so they're not the ones doing the full splice aspect of the build. They're "just" finishing the blank, adding the joint, and making a shaft. I put "just" in quotes because there's obviously more work to it than that. But based on my limited knowledge of cue making, building a good full splice blank isn't exactly as easy falling off a log unless you have a process set up for making them in large volume. Also, as far as Tim goes, he wasn't even making his SP's for a large portion of his career. Bob Frey made them for him in the same shop.
I just reread my post and wanted to clarify something in case it came off the wrong way. I'm by no means knocking Tim's sneakies because they were made by Bob. They're great cues. In fact, along with the Gilbert J/B cues that I used to see brand new for $450, I could kick myself for not picking up at least one of Bob's sneakies that I used to see on here all the time. I don't have anything to back this up besides speculation based on Tim and Bob working so closely together, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're identical to Tim's except for the logo.

How to find a good Pool instructor?

If you keep "doing" the wrong thing at the table, you are just reinforcing problems.
This should be bold Ed, bold did, uh er it's huge.

study practice enjoy
I enjoy learning. 🤷‍♂️
Barry Stark is my favorite youtube contributor.
Lacking an available coach.....use your camera. The files can be studied.

Teaching "the other hand" is a place to get back to the Basics. My Left hand was pretty Goofy at the start. That did provide entertainment though. 🤷‍♂️
The Right giggle button learns to improve as well.
Finding weakest link and reinforce the structure or mechanics. The mental......well it changes under pressure in competition. 🤷‍♂️
A big part of recovery in competition was being able to identify if my miss was mental or physical mistake. While sitting getting My Mind right was the task. Hope for one more chance at the table. 🤷‍♂️ ☺ it helps to smile. 🤔 I did earn the football nick Smiley. I made all league that way. 🤷‍♂️

Heavy Jump/Break Cue Feasibility

So, I've had this idea rolling around in my head for a while and would like your guys' opinions on how feasible something like this would be.

My buddy has a Jacoby Heavy Hitter break cue and I love that thing. I barely have to swing it and the rack explodes. I also like the idea of Jump/Break combo cues. But it's my understanding that as far as jump cues go, lighter is better. That may be a massive generalization, but you probably get my point.

Anyway, how feasible/practical would it be to make the jump part of the cue like normal, but make the handle/butt section extra heavy by introducing a combination pin/weight bolt to keep the weight at the front of the handle area? It would essentially be like the bolt that goes in the A joint of most short splice cues. But instead of being a single thread, part of it would be permanently threaded into the grip/hand section and the other part would be like a normal joint pin that threads into the jump section so it can be taken apart for jumping.

Scruggs Plain Jane

Good to know. Really good to know. But what about Scrugg's Plain Janes? Surely, enjoying the access you did . . .

Thanks for your reply. It really is good information for us all to have.

What occurs to me is that it is a simple hop, skip, and jump* from a Sneaky Pete to a Plain Jane, and if I was going to do one, why not . . . Am I wrong about the distance from one to the other? Perhaps it was simply a business decision -- was it that Sneaky Petes were Scrugg's bread and butter? If so, do other cue makers follow his example?

*In fact, a Sneaky Pete might require more work because of the points. I always assumed Scrugg's Sneaky Petes were full splice. If this is true . . .
A Point A to Point B sneaky probably does require more work than a plain jane, or at least a similar amount when taking rings, wraps, and such into consideration. But most cue makers purchase their sneaky blanks so they're not the ones doing the full splice aspect of the build. They're "just" finishing the blank, adding the joint, and making a shaft. I put "just" in quotes because there's obviously more work to it than that. But based on my limited knowledge of cue making, building a good full splice blank isn't exactly as easy falling off a log unless you have a process set up for making them in large volume. Also, as far as Tim goes, he wasn't even making his SP's for a large portion of his career. Bob Frey made them for him in the same shop.

Gold Crown 1 rehab. Lots of questions...

@bradsh98 You wouldn't have a drawing of the pocket angles, would you?

I looked at your thread on subrail mods above and have a comment or two.

Your fixturing is good and I'm sure it works. I probably will do mine differently only because I only plan on fixing mine, will probably never see another set.

First, If you have room for it, a good table saw. Cabinet grade, stay away from the contractor saws. New is pricey, but an old Powermatic model 66 or Rockwell/Delta Unisaw can be had on the used market for considerably less.

To use with the current set up I would use a router with an adjustable angle base in place of the circular saw. A router and a stable guide will give you as good a finish as you are going to get, far superior to what you can get with a circular saw. Honestly, a better finish that even the table saw.

That's been my experience in my 40 years of making sawdust anyway. Hope it helps.

GENDER IN POOL ... Do Men Play Better Than Women? ... Recent Legal Trial

Here's an interesting gender performance fact: Ga Young Kim's scoring average in this event final.
She got the makeover right; all trim too.

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