Looks like the CB-4 is a carom cue though, is that right? Mine is 20.3 ounces with a 13mm tip, so I’m wondering if it’s a different model.

Today's players shoot straighter than their counterparts of the 10-foot era, but their pattern play and problem solving are not as good, and the ten-footer at Derby City quickly exposed it.

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The great mystery to me is how much of players "shooting straighter" today is due to superior cues and cloth vs better stroke and technique?

I know for myself, when I play on a slower nappy cloth my accuracy takes a signficant hit due to swerve from English (both accidental and purposeful). I also know I am also more accurate with my Predator now than I was decades ago with other cues (and I don't even have the latest and greatest Predator shaft).

Does anyone know when gthey started using the faster Simonis and other similar cloth vs. the older nappy cloth you'd see in most pool rooms.

It's an interesting question because unlike other sports like basketball, baseball, football where being bigger, stronger, having better nutrition and condition will have a huge impact, in pool things like that won't have a huge impact on shooting straighter.

One thing is certain, there are WAY MORE great players now than years ago.

Sheldon said:

Pool tables are twice as long as they are wide. The reason the stretch index is the same on the 3 sides other than the anchor accounts for this.
You're pulling the side half as much as the ends.

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No, pool table are not twice as long as they are wide, you are wrong, 9 feet pool table slate are 57'' X 107'' and not 57'' X 114'', how long have you been in this field to not know that?

I am thinking a CB-4. Early 70's?

Johnny must not have many people who trust him or one of his friends would have "loaned" him the money to pay Oscar before it ever got to this point.

These are $525 from Mfr. this is a deal at $450 asking price. No offers?

Where Legends Collide: the new thriller from M. Night Shyamalan.

Ordered some a few weeks ago with no problems. Might just be a holiday issue.

Absolutely it’s a PITA, but until I have more space and money, I have to make do with what I have.

I would love to have a dedicated tapering station or CNC. Just not at that stage yet.

Sheldon said:

This will serve you better. Glen will concur, he now stretches the corners on the ends first.
The side stretch will feel a bit light, and the temptation to go more there than the ends should be resisted with Simonis. Unlike some cloths, it stretches the same in both directions, and you want it to be balanced. You know you have the right index when your end pulls are needing some muscle.
Another nice tip on a table with deep side pocket cuts is to close off your side pockets before you pull the ends. I find I can get away with a little less slack this way. Watch the grain in front of the pocket closely and pull it straight when you do this.

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Please excuse the watermark. Just trying to do my part to help just a little and thanks for updating as I'm getting ready to do my table. Very much appreciated!

Benelli said:

I read about road players in the 50's applying bees wax to the fresh linen wraps and using a hotel iron to melt the wax into the linen.

I've started doing this with pure beeswax block and a hair dryer and it seriously makes the linen better. Even after the "tack" of the wax has faded the linen just feels better, less slick, and more grip.

I highly recommend this approach.

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I just had a piece of wax paper in my case.....still do actually....works on both linen wraps and leather wraps......in the late 80s I used this..........On my other stick......(lived in CA)