Shaft freeze is a new product made by Axon in Greenville, S.C. This company makes finishing products for Commercial Airlines. I have been using their product for several years to finish my cues. Together we have developed this new shaft coating called "Shaft Freeze". This new material is a final step in the process of shafts. It will enhance the stability of shaft wood that is ready to finish for cue sticks. It stabilizes shaft wood better than any product I have ever used in making cues. Shaft yield will increase dramatically for cue makers. Shaft Freeze will keep out dirt and chalk, make the outside of the shaft surface many times harder to help stop dings, will not change the harmonics of the shaft, with not ever come off unless removed with an abrasive, is as slick as as ice and is available as early as nest week. This product will replace costly cleanings and preserve shafts looking good and feeling great. I most likely will have Shaft Freeze at the US Open for sale on the 24th at my booth.
"Shaft Freeze"
- Thread starter gulyassy
- Start date
Hey Gammaray, Mike said earlier that the product had to be sprayed on as in a spray booth application, not just wiped on like many other products. Also the shafts that are already sealed will have to be sanded and prepped to insure adhesion to the existing finish. At least that is how I undestood it.
Dan
Dan
You are right. The Shaft freeze works on new wood best. Used shafts must be cleaned of dirt wax and all sealers that were on previously. I am getting a kit together that will include a spray apparatus for the bottle of coating. The hard part is getting off all the old stuff. I am working on old stuff now and will have a process for it shortly. As far as application, it will be as easy and foolproof as 1,2,3. All that will be needed is a lathe and sandpaper and of course some good ventilation.quedup said:
have to wonder
Mike,
I'm always looking for new products that work better but I have to wonder about that one statement. It seems contradictory to me. Harmonics are something I have dabbled in for many years and I don't see how it is possible for that statement to be correct. The product might help harmonics, it might harm harmonics, but leaving them unchanged from a plain wooden shaft while doing the other things you say that it does seems impossible. Any real testing to prove this or is it a subjective statement?
Hu
gulyassy said:
Mike,
I'm always looking for new products that work better but I have to wonder about that one statement. It seems contradictory to me. Harmonics are something I have dabbled in for many years and I don't see how it is possible for that statement to be correct. The product might help harmonics, it might harm harmonics, but leaving them unchanged from a plain wooden shaft while doing the other things you say that it does seems impossible. Any real testing to prove this or is it a subjective statement?
Hu
Nelsonite or Resolute?
Mike,
This used shaft, had you dipped it in Nelsonite, Resolute, or something similar back in the early stages of turning the shaft before you had Shaft Freeze? Curious if these deep penetrating products will be an issue. Many of my shaft blanks have been dipped in Resolute.
Hu
gulyassy said:
Mike,
This used shaft, had you dipped it in Nelsonite, Resolute, or something similar back in the early stages of turning the shaft before you had Shaft Freeze? Curious if these deep penetrating products will be an issue. Many of my shaft blanks have been dipped in Resolute.
Hu
I quit dipping when I started using the coating a year ago. I do know the coating will stick to the wood even if it is dipped. I have done older shafts of mine that were dipped in Resolute and Nelsonite. They took the coating well. I don't like the way these dipped products seep out after the final sanding.ShootingArts said:
basically don't like anything about dipping
Mike,
I don't like anything about dipping shafts, just a matter of doing all I can to keep them straight. I'll be very interested in your new product.
Hu
gulyassy said:
Mike,
I don't like anything about dipping shafts, just a matter of doing all I can to keep them straight. I'll be very interested in your new product.
Hu
Here is something for the cue makers that will make your shaft finishing about half the time Check out this process. Final cut the shaft use Shaft Freeze and let it dry for 8 hours, final sand the shaft, (start with courser sand paper for the metal rings and tool marks like 180 & 220 grit, then use 320 to 800 grit on the entire shaft for the last sanding,) sand to size, use Shaft Freeze on the entire shaft always unless it is a used shaft. In 2 hours spray the top coat on the collar and up the shaft to your liking right over the Shaft Freeze, no sanding or any kind of preparation, (I spray about 5-6 inches up the shaft), let air dry or UV light and you are done with both applications and your top coat will adhere to the Shaft Freeze better than the wood or any metal or plastic, about any cue material. The Shaft Freeze will not allow your top coat to lift of of rings like some automotive finishes do. A couple more coats of top coat and dry sand the entire shaft using 800 up to 2500 grit, buff out the finished end and it is ready to ship.