cue case building?

been running around town looking for pvc pipes that are thinner than sch 40. sch 40 seems to be way to thick and is pretty heavy... i know class 200 is suppose to be thinner but no luck finding it yet... ahh still searching
 
pvc

been running around town looking for pvc pipes that are thinner than sch 40. sch 40 seems to be way to thick and is pretty heavy... i know class 200 is suppose to be thinner but no luck finding it yet... ahh still searching

Have you tried Lowes?
 
If you know any plumbers or electricians or check out remodeling site or new construction for possible freebie. Your hardware store, Plumbing supplier, or Electrical supplier. Two of type of PVC piping: use for Vacuum cleaner [piping ran in the wall] and irrigation piping [black], you might think about using. Not the flexible piping.
 
If you think custom cue case price are high then you should see what Biker pay for their seat http://detroitbros.com/777/james-corner

If this is your first, you are well on your way. I as well, work with leather. It takes a bit to get used to it and to figure out all the tools, but once you do, It takes off on you.

Leatherwork can get expensive, but so can women. Then again, Some are cheap; and leatherwork can be too. If you want to tool and make things by hand there are some basic tools you need to buy, then it's just leather costs that keep kicking you in the seat.

Buy good reliable tools, take care of them properly, and they will last for generations. The cost of each tool can be dispersed over your lifes work.... thus averaging the cost down to nothing (with everything to gain). Study the old ways too; tooling, braiding, and dyeing. It is a dissapearing craft that needs to be remembered.
 
If you think custom cue case price are high then you should see what Biker pay for their seat http://detroitbros.com/777/james-corner

If this is your first, you are well on your way. I as well, work with leather. It takes a bit to get used to it and to figure out all the tools, but once you do, It takes off on you.

Leatherwork can get expensive, but so can women. Then again, Some are cheap; and leatherwork can be too. If you want to tool and make things by hand there are some basic tools you need to buy, then it's just leather costs that keep kicking you in the seat.

Buy good reliable tools, take care of them properly, and they will last for generations. The cost of each tool can be dispersed over your lifes work.... thus averaging the cost down to nothing (with everything to gain). Study the old ways too; tooling, braiding, and dyeing. It is a dissapearing craft that needs to be remembered.

well actually i went to a fabric store and they have some cheap synthetic leathers that i might try out first then buy real leatherr after i figure the the majority of it out. i plan on an envolope with no pockets for my first case
 
Here one of the first pool related leather project I did in '90 with scrap latigo remnant, lace, old spring belt clip, and velcro. Chalk Holder. My cost Time.

Chalk holder01.jpg

Chalk holder02.jpg
 
after reading John's post about modifying his McDermott case...I thought I'd ask if anyone has tried putting tubes in an It's George? I have a 2x4 and thought I could make it into a 2x2 tubed case pretty easily. Why? Well, if I have both shafts in the case I don't like squeezing the 2nd butt in (pin up) for fear of scratching the buttplate or the shaft joint that are tight going past one another.

one problem could be...the case isn't "light" to begin with....will it make a big difference in weight?

I have fun "adapting" cases to be what I want them to be. I"ve wanted a slim and trim hard tube case. I took a Silver Fox BR2 and removed the soft tubes. I then put in 2 butt and 3 shaft tubes. I removed the outer pockets and put my stuff in pouches and laid them inside the case in the cavity created by the shaft tubes. This created a slim and trim case that was enough protection for me. I added a top handle and had a case I really liked.... except. (there's always some criteria I haven't fulfilled).

The except was that the case wasn't quite wide enough to comfortably hold the 2x3 hard tube configuration.

Now I'm carrying a suitcase style leather case that originally had a formed hard foam liner that held 2x3 and accessories at the end... just like a hard suitcase style case. I took the formed foam out of the case, lined it with black fabric and put in my 2x3 tubes and store my stuff in the cavity formed by the tubes. I had a leather shop add a top handle to the spine and put in two zippers that meet in the middle. I can zip/unzip so that either or both ends are open so I can get to my stuff easily and I can use it as a stand up hard tube case or lay in down and take the cue tubes out with the cue parts out still in their tubes.

Now I have changed that configuration somewhat by removing one of the butt tubes and replaced it with a Cue Reach cue extension.

This is all leading to a design I have discussed with JB and at some point will have him build "my" case.... once I decide upon all the criteria I need satisfied. The important thing is; I'm having fun with this! :groucho:
 
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I have fun "adapting" cases to be what I want them to be. I"ve wanted a slim and trim hard tube case. I took a Silver Fox BR2 and removed the soft tubes. I then put in 2 butt and 3 shaft tubes. I removed the outer pockets and put my stuff in pouches and laid them inside the case in the cavity created by the shaft tubes. This created a slim and trim case that was enough protection for me. I added a top handle and had a case I really liked.... except. (there's always some criteria I haven't fulfilled).

The except was that the case wasn't quite wide enough to comfortably hold the 2x3 hard tube configuration.

Now I'm carrying a suitcase style leather case that originally had a formed hard foam liner that held 2x3 and accessories at the end... just like a hard suitcase style case. I took the formed foam out of the case, lined it with black fabric and put in my 2x3 tubes and store my stuff in the cavity formed by the tubes. I had a leather shop add a top handle to the spine and put in two zippers that meet in the middle. I can zip/unzip so that either or both ends are open so I can get to my stuff easily and I can use it as a stand up hard tube case or lay in down and take the cue tubes out with the cue parts out still in their tubes.

Now I have changed that configuration somewhat by removing one of the butt tubes and replaced it with a Cue Reach cue extension.

This is all leading to a design I have discussed with JB and at some point will have him build "my" case.... once I decide upon all the criteria I need satisfied. The important thing is; I'm having fun with this! :groucho:

I also had a BR2 that I was considering doing that to, but at the time I had 3 cues and a jump cue, and now I'm down to a jump/break and a player (that's it, I know, surprising :eek:). Other cues just stay home!! I always tinker with stuff to make it more suited to me, so, the It's George may just be my next VICTOM! :p:thumbup:

I'll have to play some with ya some time (BoM or here). PM me, if you play in a tourney here; I'll do the same if I head up thata way (Galesburger that is - lol).
 
More source for ideas, pattern, materials, and etc. Thrift / Second Stores and Swap Meet/Garage Sale. Hint Shoulder Strap, Carrying Handle, Buckle, D ring, tools, Zipper, Leather vest or chap, suitcase parts, and etc. Remember some stuff are actually new. Don't forget the Dollar Stores!

One Thrift store I found an old saddle with one skirt burnt for $10.00, once strip the saddle tree along was worth $75.00 used. Not counting the material and part I obtain, but I obtain a better knowledge how the saddle was put together, plus actual patterns.

Here a step by step to making a journal noticed the tools he use, but I kindly like the handle idea
http://www.songofthepaddle.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=5847

Something close to a cue cases are drum stick cases.
 
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More source for ideas, pattern, materials, and etc. Thrift / Second Stores and Swap Meet/Garage Sale. Hint Shoulder Strap, Carrying Handle, Buckle, D ring, tools, Zipper, Leather vest or chap, suitcase parts, and etc. Remember some stuff are actually new. Don't forget the Dollar Sores!

I completely agree. I used to go to thrift stores looking for leather jackets and coats and vintage luggage. I have a collection of parts that I call my "someday hardware" which I plan to use someday to make cases with. One of the things I want to do is make cue cases that are designed like vintage luggage and for that I collect the original parts. You can get good parts from backpacks and other things. I found a backpack with a monster oversized zipper in it. It's really cool and I don't know what I am going to use it on yet but I will build a case around that zipper.
 
I completely agree. I used to go to thrift stores looking for leather jackets and coats and vintage luggage. I have a collection of parts that I call my "someday hardware" which I plan to use someday to make cases with. One of the things I want to do is make cue cases that are designed like vintage luggage and for that I collect the original parts. You can get good parts from backpacks and other things. I found a backpack with a monster oversized zipper in it. It's really cool and I don't know what I am going to use it on yet but I will build a case around that zipper.

I picked up an OLD moldy leather portfolio case at a goodwill store (same place I bought my last industrial sewing machine) for a $1 - the lock was solid brass, but I have since disassembled the bag to make patterns for other bags. I'll post some pics when I get that project done.

Its amazing what you can find at a goodwill store.

Brian
www.nittanyleather.com
 
Other than actually drawing a full size pattern with all necessary measurement. Most information have been covered or source to where they can go for addition information. One last Hint. Get a good square [L ruler] and a ruler that will enable you to do scale measurement to make your own graph [or graph paper] to either enlarge or decrease drawing or picture for craving or to draw full pattern.

As Porky Pig Said "thatttt all folk" at least for me.
Bob Watson
 
(same place I bought my last industrial sewing machine)
Brian
www.nittanyleather.com

You SUCK! :-) I Wish there were Goodwill stores in China. Goodwill, Salvation Army, Habitat For Humanity, these are all places that are real treasure troves for stuff like this.

Another good place to get vintage stuff cheap (relatively cheap) is Ebay.

Only it takes a while to browse around and you have to hunt a little. I got a great set of vintage luggage their for a total of $15. But you can also just get great ideas from the stuff there as well.
 
Other than actually drawing a full size pattern with all necessary measurement. Most information have been covered or source to where they can go for addition information. One last Hint. Get a good square [L ruler] and a ruler that will enable you to do scale measurement to make your own graph [or graph paper] to either enlarge or decrease drawing or picture for craving or to draw full pattern.

As Porky Pig Said "thatttt all folk" at least for me.
Bob Watson

Thanks Bob,

Your information has been very helpful to me as well.

John
 
so when you guys apply the dye to the outside leather piece, do you guys like using an air brush to apply it or some sort of a rag? wouldent the air brush be alot more even
 
so when you guys apply the dye to the outside leather piece, do you guys like using an air brush to apply it or some sort of a rag? wouldent the air brush be alot more even

I use an automotive detail sprayer - i use significantly less dye. And I'm done in about 10 minutes.

I dyed a whole case yesterday in three colors, in under an hour (with clean up).

I'll probably move to a HVLP gun, but I don't dye as much as I used to, so I'm going to wait on that (unless I'm near a Grizzly, then I'll splurge $50 on a new one).

Brian
www.nittanyleather.com
 
so when you guys apply the dye to the outside leather piece, do you guys like using an air brush to apply it or some sort of a rag? wouldent the air brush be alot more even

We use either method depending on the effect we want to achieve. Most of our customers want some character in the dye job so we apply it by hand using a variety of rags and sponges depending on what we want the look to be.

We also spray some pieces when the coat should be perfectly even. But that also takes practice, you can get the same effect both ways.

We do this is done by hand;

2008-020a%20F.jpg


And this can be sprayed:

DSC01739Q.jpg
 
i really want solid even coats of dye, no tooling yet. so i guess the quickest and cleanest way should be an air brush i guess
 
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