Question about titlist conversions

a9ballbr8k

Don't anger my stakehorse
Silver Member
Some conversions still show the signature and weight stamp. How is this done...my imagination says with a light sanding to bring the colors out in the veneers and to rid of old finish and then with a compound taper in the butt to preserve these? I couldn't imagine someone could use a straight taper for the butt and keep these. Enlighten me :)
 
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Most are too thick to save the signature. I had 3 Titlist Snooker cues I converted and they were .870" after I cut them to length. The blanks were straight and thin so all the signatures and weight numbers were saved. If the builder is lucky the points will be off and the point closest to the signature will be the longest. Then the cue can be offset and save the signature.

I've built 15-20 Titlist conversions and it's rare to save the signature.

One of the cues you can see the weight and signature.
 

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Some conversions still show the signature and weight stamp. How is this done...my imagination says with a light sanding to bring the colors out in the veneers and to rid of old finish and then with a compound taper in the butt to preserve these? I couldn't imagine someone could use a straight taper for the butt and keep these. Enlighten me :)

When you are doing a Titlist Conversion you have to understand that no two are exactly a like. The size of these cues varies greatly depending upon many factors, along with when they were made. In addition you have to remember that many Brunswick 26 1/2 cues are mistaken for Titlist cue by people who do not understand how to identify them properly. The Brunswick 26 1/2 was made by Brunswick from approximately 1908 until 1939 or early 1940 when they started making the Brunswick Willie Hoppe Titlist cues. The only major changes in the Brunswick 26 1/2 and the Titlist cues was the Falk Willie Hoppe signature on the cues forearm, and the weight stamp which was moved from just above the bumper to the forearm. Another difference that is obvious is the color of the veneers on the points and how brilliant the colors of these veneers were. Any way this is another reason you will see cues for sale as Titlist conversions when actually they were Brunswick 26 1/2 in the first place.

When ever some one buys Brunswick 26 1/2 or Titlist cues sight unseen or even with pictures such as on ebay it is always a crap shoot, because it is difficult if not impossible to tell what the diameter of the cues butt is. In many cases these can not be kept as a Full Splice cues because the cues diameter for the joint is two small. These problems can be over come by experienced cue smith but in many cases there are sacrifices. Such as having to add a handle between the forearm and the butt, or by coring the cues front and adding a dowel to bring the forearm up to size and length. In any of these cases the signature and weight stamp will be sacrificed.

I have converted a number of these cues, and in my opinion one in ten will have great points and also be large enough to save the signature and the weight stamp.

Hope this helps
 
Titlist Conversions

When you are doing a Titlist Conversion you have to understand that no two are exactly a like. The size of these cues varies greatly depending upon many factors, along with when they were made. In addition you have to remember that many Brunswick 26 1/2 cues are mistaken for Titlist cue by people who do not understand how to identify them properly. The Brunswick 26 1/2 was made by Brunswick from approximately 1908 until 1939 or early 1940 when they started making the Brunswick Willie Hoppe Titlist cues. The only major changes in the Brunswick 26 1/2 and the Titlist cues was the Falk Willie Hoppe signature on the cues forearm, and the weight stamp which was moved from just above the bumper to the forearm. Another difference that is obvious is the color of the veneers on the points and how brilliant the colors of these veneers were. Any way this is another reason you will see cues for sale as Titlist conversions when actually they were Brunswick 26 1/2 in the first place.

When ever some one buys Brunswick 26 1/2 or Titlist cues sight unseen or even with pictures such as on ebay it is always a crap shoot, because it is difficult if not impossible to tell what the diameter of the cues butt is. In many cases these can not be kept as a Full Splice cues because the cues diameter for the joint is two small. These problems can be over come by experienced cue smith but in many cases there are sacrifices. Such as having to add a handle between the forearm and the butt, or by coring the cues front and adding a dowel to bring the forearm up to size and length. In any of these cases the signature and weight stamp will be sacrificed.

I have converted a number of these cues, and in my opinion one in ten will have great points and also be large enough to save the signature and the weight stamp.

Hope this helps

Craig...Interesting facts of how Titlist conversions are made.
There's quite a bit to it that I was unaware of.
I have a few that I really like but I've never sent a Titlist to a builder to be converted.
I picked up an old Willie Hoppe cue and was thinking about having a conversion done.
It's a fat butt and the sticker is still in great shape.
What do you think about saving the sticker.
Is it possible or just a waste of time.

Thanks
 
Craig...Interesting facts of how Titlist conversions are made.
There's quite a bit to it that I was unaware of.
I have a few that I really like but I've never sent a Titlist to a builder to be converted.
I picked up an old Willie Hoppe cue and was thinking about having a conversion done.
It's a fat butt and the sticker is still in great shape.
What do you think about saving the sticker.
Is it possible or just a waste of time.

Thanks

It is very difficult to save the sticker on these cues, to date I have not been able to do it. But, you can purchase new decals that are exact replica's of the originals, below is a website.

http://www.classicbilliards.net/html/pool_cue_decals.cfm

Hope this helps
 
Manwon

You have lots of info on the Titlists. When I found the Titlist snooker cues I couldn't find any information on them. Can you tell me anything about them?

The 6th cue from the right (Oak) is a True Ballance Snooker. Couldn't find anything about that cue either.
 

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You have lots of info on the Titlists. When I found the Titlist snooker cues I couldn't find any information on them. Can you tell me anything about them?

The 6th cue from the right (Oak) is a True Ballance Snooker. Couldn't find anything about that cue either.

I've never seen an oak Tru Balance, and now that I look at it, yours may be ash rather than oak. Your Titlist snooker cue was made in the 50s, judging from the decal, and looks like it may be palm wood.

The much lesser known cousin to the 26.5 and the Titlist was the Carom King, which was made between '39 and '40 or '41. Again, same cue, different decal. I have one or two of those around here as well.

I have probably 100 Titlists/Hoppe Pros, including several oak, ebony, and purple heart, but interestingly, my favorite Titlist is padauk. I have a couple of them, and they just glow orange-red. Very unique, and very rare.
They don't call me Mr Hoppe for noth'n... :)
Mr H
 
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Hi,

Mr. H knows his stuff when it comes to these cues. He is one of the top experts in the world on this topic of Hoppe style Titlist, Brunswick, and Rambo antique cues.

Rick
 
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I've never seen an oak Tru Balance, and now that I look at it, yours may be ash rather than oak. Your Titlist snooker cue was made in the 50s, judging from the decal, and looks like it may be palm wood.

The much lesser known cousin to the 26.5 and the Titlist was the Carom King, which was made between '39 and '40 or '41. Again, same cue, different decal. I have one or two of those around here as well.

I have probably 100 Titlists/Hoppe Pros, including several oak, ebony, and purple heart, but interestingly, my favorite Titlist is padauk. I have a couple of them, and they just glow orange-red. Very unique, and very rare.
They don't call me Mr Hoppe for noth'n... :)
Mr H

I have a couple of Ash Tru-Balance cues, and I also have a single Oak tru-balance. When I get some time I will post some photo's.
 
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