Just cored my first few pcs

dave sutton

dave sutton

Banned
It was shockingly easy. Ripped thru the cocobolo rosewood and olivewood like a warm knife thru butter. Ive been set up for a while to do it but just havent tried. So i was bored at 9 am. It took me about 40 mins to do 3 pieces. Thats center drill then bore pilot to .650 on both ends then core. With the air set up the coring bit wasnt even hot to the touch. It was pretty cool. So ill let these sit for a month or so then stuff them with some maple and thats it...
 
I like to glue a dowel in them right after they're cored. Some like to let cored pieces sit and dry "from the inside out" before adding the dowel, but if they move on you in that state then you can't get a dowel in. If that happens, you could run the gun drill back through them, but then you would get a pocket that your adhesive may or may not fill when you install the dowel.

You're right though, a gun drill with an air inlet works like a charm.
Mr H
 
what would happen if you filled 'em with something like ebony or purple heart? would that still be stable? would it just produce a stiffer hit?
 
poolplayer2093 said:
what would happen if you filled 'em with something like ebony or purple heart? would that still be stable? would it just produce a stiffer hit?
Click to expand...

I have used Purpleheart for my wrap stock (handle) for many years. I never use maple anymore. As far as for coring, this may be opinion but I would think Purpleheart would be more stable as long as the weight was not an issue. I also think the core should be put in after the coring is done. If someone wants to let the wood sit then maybe do the coring in several steps over some time.
 
macguy said:
I have used Purpleheart for my wrap stock (handle) for many years. I never use maple anymore. As far as for coring, this may be opinion but I would think Purpleheart would be more stable as long as the weight was not an issue. I also think the core should be put in after the coring is done. If someone wants to let the wood sit then maybe do the coring in several steps over some time.
Click to expand...

I find maple just as stable as long as they have great grain orientation and are cut in stages like shafts.
Drilling the hole in stages doesn't hurt either. Drill a hole, let sit.
Plug the holes, take a small pass of the cone.
Re-drill to final size. Run a tap up and down the drilled piece to create vertical glue grooves.
Glue grooves at the bottom of the drilled piece don't hurt either.
 
macguy said:
I have used Purpleheart for my wrap stock (handle) for many years. I never use maple anymore. As far as for coring, this may be opinion but I would think Purpleheart would be more stable as long as the weight was not an issue. I also think the core should be put in after the coring is done. If someone wants to let the wood sit then maybe do the coring in several steps over some time.
Click to expand...
i do purpleheart coring dowels also
i keep forgetting to wiegh them for comparison with maple
brent> writing himself a "post-it-note" now to do that soon :wink:
 
This is sort of close to my heart as I've cored almost all of my cues for over ten years and caught some grief on this forum over it when I first mentioned it. It's more expensive as you must buy two gun drills but the best way is to bore at one size, let hang for a few more months and then bore with your final size and then glue in your core. I have about 75 coring dowels in a drawer already cut. It's much easier and a time saver doing them ahead of time as you know through testing the exact correct size needed so you can dial each one in correctly while cutting. I use 3 types of coring dowels, Maple, laminated Maple and Purple Heart. I use what I feel is needed for weight and type of hit I'm trying to attain.

I might add that if any of my coring dowels move before use then they wouldn't have been suitable to start with.

Dick
 
Last edited:
I just cored a piece of Holly with Ebony.

hollyebony.jpg
 
dave sutton said:
It was shockingly easy. Ripped thru the cocobolo rosewood and olivewood like a warm knife thru butter. Ive been set up for a while to do it but just havent tried. So i was bored at 9 am. It took me about 40 mins to do 3 pieces. Thats center drill then bore pilot to .650 on both ends then core. With the air set up the coring bit wasnt even hot to the touch. It was pretty cool. So ill let these sit for a month or so then stuff them with some maple and thats it...
Click to expand...

Awsome, glad it worked out so well for you. Seems like coring is cake.
 
BHQ said:
i do purpleheart coring dowels also
i keep forgetting to wiegh them for comparison with maple
brent> writing himself a "post-it-note" now to do that soon :wink:
Click to expand...

According to my records and the samples I have, I got PH at .51 oz per cubic inch, with Birdseye and curly maple about the same at about .43 oz per cubic inch. PH is generally heavier but it sure machines nice.

Maybe this'll help.

Regards,
Frank
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top