Randy wonders if Joey practices his banks on that table?
And he's a good player to say the least....SPF=randyg
Will practicing on a small pocket table improve your game or not?
- Thread starter professor1967
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Randy wonders if Joey practices his banks on that table?
And he's a good player to say the least....SPF=randyg
All tables play differently, and most table that I play on wont accept a shot if the cushion is hit 2 inches up the rail unless the shot is straight down the rail and even then pocket speed is key.
What do you consider tight? Snooker size is too tight because everything has to be cinched. I really believe that one can practice on tight pockets and still have the benefit of cheating the hole, provided the hole is 4 1/4 or larger.
I think you are absolutley correct on this. Anything tighter than 4 1/2" pockets makes you play the game differently. Only the best Pros can run 3-4 racks on 4" pockets. How does this build anyones confidence? Keep in mind you have to play more angle so you don't hit the ball as hard so it won't jaw in the pocket. Changes the game alot.
No, obviously I am referring to shots played somewhat down the rail rather than from centre table LOL
Uk Pool tables
2" Balls
2 1/2" to 3" (if you are lucky!)Pockets
More rounded snooker style pocket openings that kick everything out not in like US Tables.
Cheating not an option LOL
(Although not as bad as your crazy golf tables ! )
LOL
perfectpocketz
Banned
Johnny's table is a GCV with 4 1/8 pockets and 4 1/2 sides.
I set the table up for him, and did the rail ext.
Mark Gregory
It comes down to practicing and playing. If you practice using drills for shot making and some position then you should do fine. I use pocket blockers for this. I put them in and practice my shot making and certain position drills. I take them out for other drills and to play. I pay close attention to how I miss also which can be as important as making the shot.
The width of the pocket..
The width of the pocket isn't all that makes a table play tight. Aside from shelf depth the angles of the facings greatly affect the playability. Cut wrong and you can hit a ball hard between the points and it still may not drop. Cut correctly (in my point of view) you can hit a ball hard and as long as it's between the points it most often will fall. My GC II was recently redone by RKC from a bucket to 4 3/8 inches but the facings were cut so the pocket won't reject a well hit ball. My game certainly hasn't dropped off and if anything with time my increased focus pocketing balls will most likely improve it. I have a friend who plays 1P pro speed, has played on every table imaginable across the country, likes to have his firepower come into play a little, and as he says, "I'd bet all my cash on this table". Well struck balls that are rejected by a pocket can diminish your confidence. While it's always a matter of adjusting to the table when you play, on my home table I like to hit a ball good and have it fall.
ps..my request was to set the table up for mostly straight pool and nine ball but there will be a good amount of 1P played on it as well.
The width of the pocket isn't all that makes a table play tight. Aside from shelf depth the angles of the facings greatly affect the playability. Cut wrong and you can hit a ball hard between the points and it still may not drop. Cut correctly (in my point of view) you can hit a ball hard and as long as it's between the points it most often will fall. My GC II was recently redone by RKC from a bucket to 4 3/8 inches but the facings were cut so the pocket won't reject a well hit ball. My game certainly hasn't dropped off and if anything with time my increased focus pocketing balls will most likely improve it. I have a friend who plays 1P pro speed, has played on every table imaginable across the country, likes to have his firepower come into play a little, and as he says, "I'd bet all my cash on this table". Well struck balls that are rejected by a pocket can diminish your confidence. While it's always a matter of adjusting to the table when you play, on my home table I like to hit a ball good and have it fall.
ps..my request was to set the table up for mostly straight pool and nine ball but there will be a good amount of 1P played on it as well.
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I asked someone about using pocket reducers. He told me to just aim at the center of the pocket and don't waste your money. From all of the gimicks, tricks, and systems there is no one right way to aiming except experience. That is why the pros cannot help you with their magic aiming or shooting system. The only thing they can help you with is unloading your pockets with a system that helps make them richer.
I'm used to playing on tight equipment and I feel that it's easier to adjust, going from a tight table to a loose table than the other way around. One warning: If you spend most of your time on a tight table and you have an opponent who regularly plays on loose table, he/she may be able to spot caroms and combos that you may not be used to playing.
This happens to me a lot. Guys firing in combos and caroms into 5" pockets that I would never think to do on 4" pockets.
This happens to me a lot. Guys firing in combos and caroms into 5" pockets that I would never think to do on 4" pockets.
While I think it's best to spend most time playing on the equipment you want to compete on, I think there are benefits from practicing/playing both on tighter and looser tables.
tighter table:
Many of us have a habit of not aiming for the center of the hole. Sure, we often do that on purpose--cheating a pocket to get better cueball options--but I'm talking about even cinching balls. Players accustomed to loose tables often play to the near rail side of the pocket without even realizing it. Even on easy shots, it's best to aim for the center of the pocket unless there's a specific benefit to not doing so. Practicing at least some of the time on a tighter table encourages this. Also, practicing on a tighter table teaches us when we can play shape closer to the object ball and makes us more cognizant of getting on the right side of the next ball and getting the right angle.
It's usually bad to get straight on a ball. But on a loose table--say a Valley bar table-- a decent player doesn't really get punished for it unless the object ball is far from the pocket. He can always "create" an angle.
looser table:
When you take the focus off of shotmaking by going to an easier table, we give ourselves more opportunity to learn about patterns and about multi rail position options.
My GC III had the standard 5” pockets for many years. About a year ago I shimmed the pockets to 4.5” and find that my game has gotten better when I play on other tables, especially the 7 footers. I think that if they are too tight it would take the fun out of it and not allow the other aspects that are needed on any pool table such as cheating pockets, etc. There are undoubtedly other things I have done as well but I think that the tighter pockets have helped improve my game.
Tight pockets = good; incorrectly-cut pockets = bad
43-year-old prof (
):
As mentioned previously, tight pockets are good, as long as they are cut correctly. Methinks it'd been mentioned on these forums that Johnny Archer practices on a table that has 3.875" (3-7/8") pockets or some such. Incorrectly-cut pockets will do more to harm your game than pockets that are merely tight. If the pockets are cut incorrectly, and a correctly-hit ball consistently jars in the pocket, subconsciously you'll develop a habit of under-hitting the ball "just to make sure the ball scores" and not practice the cue ball control you'll want.
RealKingCobra and other table mechanics can comment here on the appropriate "cut" angles for pockets to ensure a correctly-hit ball scores, almost no matter the speed.
Hope this is helpful!
-Sean
43-year-old prof (
):As mentioned previously, tight pockets are good, as long as they are cut correctly. Methinks it'd been mentioned on these forums that Johnny Archer practices on a table that has 3.875" (3-7/8") pockets or some such. Incorrectly-cut pockets will do more to harm your game than pockets that are merely tight. If the pockets are cut incorrectly, and a correctly-hit ball consistently jars in the pocket, subconsciously you'll develop a habit of under-hitting the ball "just to make sure the ball scores" and not practice the cue ball control you'll want.
RealKingCobra and other table mechanics can comment here on the appropriate "cut" angles for pockets to ensure a correctly-hit ball scores, almost no matter the speed.
Hope this is helpful!
-Sean
you need to play on both. tight pockets get you shooting more precisely and make you look more at what position you need. but they also keep you from learning how to cheat the pockets and get position, and you never learn how to hit at hard speeds to get around the table as the balls wont take on too tight of pockets, without hitting it perfectly.
also when switching to loose pockets there are many more shots and plays available that are important to know.
also when switching to loose pockets there are many more shots and plays available that are important to know.
No, obviously I am referring to shots played somewhat down the rail rather than from centre table LOL
Uk Pool tables
2" Balls
2 1/2" to 3" (if you are lucky!)Pockets
More rounded snooker style pocket openings that kick everything out not in like US Tables.
Cheating not an option LOL
(Although not as bad as your crazy golf tables ! )
LOL
Guys from the uk always "think" they can play
I think it is best to practice on equipment that you use for competition, although slightly tighter might make you a bit sharper. Bigger pockets must not be underestimated at all though.
Bigger and looser pockets allow more angles, but just because of that it is actually easier to screw up CB position for most if not all non pro players. Sometimes when you unexpectedly make a badly hit ball (which of course wouldn't go in on a tight pocket table), you create an angle that wasn't really there and then you might end up with a terrible cueball position.
I also believe that competing on a loose table with brand new cloth brings more pressure precisely because balls go in easier. A silly mistake here or there against a good player might provide you with a lot of chair time, especially at straight pool. A very tight table with worn out cloth on the other hand may temporarily hold of very strong player, so even if you miss a few you might not sit that long.
Bigger and looser pockets allow more angles, but just because of that it is actually easier to screw up CB position for most if not all non pro players. Sometimes when you unexpectedly make a badly hit ball (which of course wouldn't go in on a tight pocket table), you create an angle that wasn't really there and then you might end up with a terrible cueball position.
I also believe that competing on a loose table with brand new cloth brings more pressure precisely because balls go in easier. A silly mistake here or there against a good player might provide you with a lot of chair time, especially at straight pool. A very tight table with worn out cloth on the other hand may temporarily hold of very strong player, so even if you miss a few you might not sit that long.
FWIW, I practice mostly on one table with semi tight pockets. However, I do play on other tables and other sets of balls and different cue balls.
Because I have played so much on one table and set of balls, whenever I go over to different tables, I can adjust real quick to that table. Learning to adjust quickly sometimes is the difference between a win or a loss.
Plus, I can tell the difference in play of a table due to the current room conditions.
Because I have played so much on one table and set of balls, whenever I go over to different tables, I can adjust real quick to that table. Learning to adjust quickly sometimes is the difference between a win or a loss.
Plus, I can tell the difference in play of a table due to the current room conditions.
Is that a slam or a compliment?
Its like saying your not as ugly as your sister....
LOL
Ken