I've really grown to love the look of snakewood and I wonder why it's not used more often in cues so I thought I'd ask the cuemakers for a reason. Is it tough to work with? Cost prohibitive? Not in demand as much as ebony? Too hard to find?
Why is snakewood not used more?
- Thread starter SpinDoctor
- Start date
1) the wood is very unstable
2) snakewood is heavy
3) highly figured snakewood is very difficult to obtain and is becoming more difficult to get. Mediocre snakewood adds nothing to a cue IMO.
I like it only for points or small decor. I wouldn't ever want a buttsleeve, forearm, or handle made from it unless is was radially laminated from aged stock. I had the buttsleeves on 2 cues crack traveling from CA to PA last March. The cues had been stable here for months.
Martin
2) snakewood is heavy
3) highly figured snakewood is very difficult to obtain and is becoming more difficult to get. Mediocre snakewood adds nothing to a cue IMO.
I like it only for points or small decor. I wouldn't ever want a buttsleeve, forearm, or handle made from it unless is was radially laminated from aged stock. I had the buttsleeves on 2 cues crack traveling from CA to PA last March. The cues had been stable here for months.
Martin
Mmmmmm.. that small, peppery figured Snakewood, so nice.
Thanks for the responses. That explains why I haven't seen many of them. Not much looks as good as a really nice piece of snakewood in my opinion and snakewood inlays just seem to look fantastic when put into ebony.
If I didn't love the cue I play with I'd pick up a snakewood inlaid one in a heartbeat.
If I didn't love the cue I play with I'd pick up a snakewood inlaid one in a heartbeat.
I hear its pretty dangerous to fell those trees due to the tree snakes that dwell in the branches. Only someone like Steve Erwin might be able to do it.
I think the biggest problem with Snakewood is it's unstable nature. It is one of those woods that can crack very easily even if it is cored do to it's nature. I think if it were going to be used for anything except points, inlays, or maybe a butt sleeve it should be resin impregnated for stability.
JIMO
20 years ago hardly any cue makers were using Snake wood, I think that were seeing more snakewood use now that ever. Look around for a 25 year old cue with ANY snake wood, its just not there. I love it as well.
dave sutton
Banned
bell forest is like 90$ per square. thats all i know. i thought about getting some for 4 pointers but heard it cracks easy.
any info on using it for point wood and buttsleeves?
any info on using it for point wood and buttsleeves?
You're asking for trouble with a standard buttsleeve--even long points are risky IMO. The highly figured stuff is very difficult to obtain unless you are fast on the draw at Gilmer. If the figure isn't nearly to completely 4 sided and pronounced, whats the point? Who likes blurry figured snakewood? The wood is so dense, it will not reasonably accept reinforcement by impregnation with resin.
Martin (nearly divorced from snakewood)
Martin (nearly divorced from snakewood)
In 1992 I ordered a turning sq of Snake wood from a very reputable supplier on the West Coast. This was my first experience with the stuff. After a while I started to turn it round and while I was turning it I started seeing small checks starting to develop. I stopped my turning and looked it over and then left the shop for awhile. When I came back the checks were much larger and there was about 8 altogether starting on both ends. I then called the supplier and asked how old and wet was this stuff. I was told that that piece had been in their possession for at least 6 years and he knew it to be at least 8 years old when he received it. They now send directions with any Snake Wood they sell in how to use it. It is probably the heaviest, and densest wood on earth. It weighs over double what maple (37 -39 lbs c/ft) does and is quite a bit heavier than Ebony (65 lbs c/ft). It weighs 81 lbs. per cubic foot. It is so dense that it can take 50 years to dry properly. It can not be stabilized with resin as it can not penetrate the wood. I have looked at many cues with Snake wood in them and have never seen one without checks that have been filled. I'd rather work with a live rattle snake as dead piece of Snake Wood. It would probably be easier to handle.
Dick
Dick
. But, I am glad I saw this post before I went out and spent a lot of money on it. After all, that's what AZ is all about, right? :thumbup: I may still get a small piece to play around with though, it is pretty.
In my penmaker days i used it some,very unstable,some would crack fast,somr slow,i have 2 pens in my house that never cracked after 5 yrs,also never left the house,as a cuemaker you would not want to sell a cue you guarantee with snake wood except for points
I finished this cue 2 years ago and have been very lucky so far with it.
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/035-3.JPG
I tried to duplicate it and the next two butt sleeves split. On the second one, I had it sanded out ready to spray on a Friday night. I went to bed going to spray it in the morning. When I got up it was split. I've read that if you seal them right after any work you perform it won't crack but JEEZ. Never again.
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/035-3.JPG
I tried to duplicate it and the next two butt sleeves split. On the second one, I had it sanded out ready to spray on a Friday night. I went to bed going to spray it in the morning. When I got up it was split. I've read that if you seal them right after any work you perform it won't crack but JEEZ. Never again.
Wow, very nice piece of wood there.
It's a shame to hear that they're so much of a pain to make because they sure are gorgeous. If you do manage to get the inlays put in is there a risk that they crack once they're in the cue and finished?
Sorry, I haven't graduated to doing inlays yet to answer that question. Still trying to master points. I have a really nice piece I want to dice up for points but I don't know if it will react the same so I'm waiting till I learn more.
What really sucked on my last one was the ivory butt cap that had to be machined into dust in order to machine the snake wood sleeve off. You never know how deep the water is until you jump in with both feet some times.
What really sucked on my last one was the ivory butt cap that had to be machined into dust in order to machine the snake wood sleeve off. You never know how deep the water is until you jump in with both feet some times.
I hate to tell you this now but you could have saved the butt-cap.
Drill, bore or mill your tenon away all the way up to the top of the butt-sleeve. Now bore into your wrap handle and replace the tenon.
The butt-sleeve was trash anyway but you've saved a $150 ivory butt-cap.
Drill, bore or mill your tenon away all the way up to the top of the butt-sleeve. Now bore into your wrap handle and replace the tenon.
The butt-sleeve was trash anyway but you've saved a $150 ivory butt-cap.