Making recut points - Step by Step

Thanks for posting. I am tooling up to do my first pointed forearm and this will help greatly!

Larry
 
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Thanks Tate, good find. I don't build cues but I found that to be very informative. I have a friend that just bought his first lathe and I'll pass this on.
 
TATE said:
I ran across this on the internet. The cue maker "Wayne" put up a step by step on making a forearm with re-cut points. It very clearky shows how he makes recuts.

Check out his milling machine and check out the accuracy of his recut points:

http://www.waynecustomcues.com/recut-points.html
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Yeah, that's pretty basic stuff really. You should see some of the stuff Thomas has done. Remember he sold the famous $102,000 cue about 15 years ago. He's definately one of the most atristic and inovative cuemakers out there. And he's "out there". :p
 
cuesmith said:
Yeah, that's pretty basic stuff really. You should see some of the stuff Thomas has done. Remember he sold the famous $102,000 cue about 15 years ago. He's definately one of the most atristic and inovative cuemakers out there. And he's "out there". :p
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I dont think thats Thomas Wayne, Sherm. The shop phone is a 704 area code.

*edit- I clicked the link/home page...It's Wayne Holmes

Eric
 
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Eric. said:
I dont think thats Thomas Wayne, Sherm. The shop phone is a 704 area code.

*edit- I clicked the link/home page...It's Wayne Holmes

Eric
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Ah, sorry. My mistake! No disrespect meant to Mr Holmes, I just misunderstood..Must be the "Mad Cow" .
 
cuesmith said:
Ah, sorry. My mistake! No disrespect meant to Mr Holmes, I just misunderstood..Must be the "Mad Cow" .
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OK, you get one mulligan.

Good to see you around, Sherm.


Eric >hasn't seen Sherm since the Jimbo Jambo
 
Tate, the machinery is what I noticed too. We use the same set-up, Bridgeport (don't know if the mill is a Bridgeport, but a nice mill none the less) and a 7/8 shank 90* dual angle cutter designed for use on metal. The only thing not shown is his jig set-up, which would have been nice to see as well.

I like using the full square when gluing, to me it gives even pressure, especially side to side. The squares cut in half seem to want to pivot side to side when securing with the tubing. If you are using c-clamps, the flat surface works great, but clamping like that causes several problems that you don't have to worry about with the tubing.
 
It's all fun until you forget to lock the index head.

IMG_4699.jpg
 
Recuts are much more work but I love veneers also. It just depends on the look I am going for. The cue in the picture was for my wife so it really sucks that I screwed it up. There was suposed to be bloodwood going in next so if you use your imagination then you can see how awesome it would have looked when done.

TATE said:
After all that work! What a pain.

Murray, do you think it's worth it to do recuts, or do you prefer veneers? Which way is the most work?

Chris
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