Re-cut fixture

[josie]

Can anyone tell me where I can get a good quality recut fixture? Do most guys just make their own? I have never used one but like the idea for indexing a cue multiple times accurately while being able to take the cue from machine to machine for different tasks.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[Mr Hoppe]

All you really need is an indexer on your lathe and a good spur driver, but if you want something else, Lee used to sell a nice little attachment that fits on the work piece for precision replacement after removing the piece from your machine. It's no longer listed on his web site (briannaproducts.com) but here is a thread about it, and one of it's uses.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=192&ITEM_ID=5979

 

[rhncue]

All you really need is an indexer on your lathe and a good spur driver, but if you want something else, Lee used to sell a nice little attachment that fits on the work piece for precision replacement after removing the piece from your machine. It's no longer listed on his web site (briannaproducts.com) but here is a thread about it, and one of it's uses.

I've got two sets of these plus extra delrin ends. It is the best money I've spent on any jig as far as making the building of a well indexed cue with either points or inlays possible. I believe it is probably the best jig, as far as ease of use, dependability and filling a need for builders who have a reason for moving a cue or forearm before completion. It is the sole reason that now I can build a four pointed, half-splice cue where, if I desire, the points actually touch each other at the A-joint. The cue or prong set-up can be broke down and re-indexed dozens of times, if needed and re-indexed again perfectly in both axial and linear directions. It's the best thing that ever came out of Lee's shop in my opinion.

Dick

 

[Mr Hoppe]

I've got two sets of these plus extra delrin ends. It is the best money I've spent on any jig as far as making the building of a well indexed cue with either points or inlays possible. I believe it is probably the best jig, as far as ease of use, dependability and filling a need for builders who have a reason for moving a cue or forearm before completion. It is the sole reason that now I can build a four pointed, half-splice cue where, if I desire, the points actually touch each other at the A-joint. The cue or prong set-up can be broke down and re-indexed dozens of times, if needed and re-indexed again perfectly in both axial and linear directions. It's the best thing that ever came out of Lee's shop in my opinion.

Dick

I remember that you did a really nice write up of how you're using Lees jig, including pictures. I did a search, but was unable to find it.

 

[rhncue]

I remember that you did a really nice write up of how you're using Lees jig, including pictures. I did a search, but was unable to find it.

I went back through my posts and they only go back 1000 posts and that post was farther back than that.

Dick

 

[brianna187]

I went back through my posts and they only go back 1000 posts and that post was farther back than that.

Dick

thanks guys even though we made it it was the brain child of my friend jim mc2
also input from paul mottey before retiring we sold over 70 of these and i am finishing more at this time
thanks dick and mr h both glad to hear good positive feedback

 

[rhncue]

thanks guys even though we made it it was the brain child of my friend jim mc2
also input from paul mottey before retiring we sold over 70 of these and i am finishing more at this time
thanks dick and mr h both glad to hear good positive feedback

Hello Lee. Yes, I am aware of that. That's the reason I said "coming out of Lee's shop". I didn't want to hurt anyone's feelings. They are a very good design, so credit and a thank you to MC2, and, are manufactured very well so also a thanks goes to Lee and his associate.

Dick

 

[will8834]

thanks guys even though we made it it was the brain child of my friend jim mc2
also input from paul mottey before retiring we sold over 70 of these and i am finishing more at this time
thanks dick and mr h both glad to hear good positive feedback

Lee when you more done give me a call.
thanks will adcock 812-204-2132

 

[rhncue]

A lurker on these forums, Beau Kron, had copied a link to the posts about the way install this re-cut device and he was kind enough to share the location if anyone is interested.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=110996&highlight=recut&page=2

Dick

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Thanks Dick. I also copied your procedure and everything works great.

 

[brianna187]

Thanks Dick. I also copied your procedure and everything works great.

thanks guys i have more in the works ...lee

 

[hangemhigh]

I used this fixture to do the point work in this cue. I was pleased with the results, made it very easy to relocate the front after turning down the first four points I inlaid. Get you one, you will be glad you did.

 

[rhncue]

Here is an ebony forearm with 6 amboyna points with one white veneer that I started Friday and completed last night using the re-indexing jig. I cut the three short points first and then glued in the points one at a time, and then cut back the 3 inlaid points, re-indexed in my mill and cut the 3 longer points and then completed these as the previous points. They all have come out pretty even both top and bottom and side to side.

When the cue is completed these points will be 9" and 6.5 inch in length finished size coming off of a deco-ring in front of the wrap area.

Dick

 

[hangemhigh]

Are you using Gorilla glue? Do you glue one point in at a time and wait for it to set up then another?

 

[rhncue]

Are you using Gorilla glue? Do you glue one point in at a time and wait for it to set up then another?

I did use Gorilla glue this time but I've always used West system in the past. Normally I build 4 point cues and they can be glued in two at a time. With the 6 point they had to be glued in one at a time so I tried the monkey glue as it sets up much faster so as to be able to glue in the next point. I'm still not sure that I like the stuff for that application or not. It looks like it may have a slight glue line on one veneer but I don't know what will become of it since it has some ways to go before finish size.

I used to use much larger billets to cut my V's into. This allowed much more of the V inlays to be inset and so supported so as to not be canted in the pocket when wrapped with surgical tubing. Since I have been using smaller diameter tapered billets, there is not as much side support so instead of using tubing i clamp with large spring clamps so that the V inlays fit tightly in the V pocket. Once this prong is finished I will then determine which glue will be used in the future.

Dick

 

[hangemhigh]

I did use Gorilla glue this time but I've always used West system in the past. Normally I build 4 point cues and they can be glued in two at a time. With the 6 point they had to be glued in one at a time so I tried the monkey glue as it sets up much faster so as to be able to glue in the next point. I'm still not sure that I like the stuff for that application or not. It looks like it may have a slight glue line on one veneer but I don't know what will become of it since it has some ways to go before finish size.

I used to use much larger billets to cut my V's into. This allowed much more of the V inlays to be inset and so supported so as to not be canted in the pocket when wrapped with surgical tubing. Since I have been using smaller diameter tapered billets, there is not as much side support so instead of using tubing i clamp with large spring clamps so that the V inlays fit tightly in the V pocket. Once this prong is finished I will then determine which glue will be used in the future.

Dick

I thought you may have done it that way. I glued 2 points at a time in the front I posted. I like the fixture.

 

[josie]

I did use Gorilla glue this time but I've always used West system in the past. Normally I build 4 point cues and they can be glued in two at a time. With the 6 point they had to be glued in one at a time so I tried the monkey glue as it sets up much faster so as to be able to glue in the next point. I'm still not sure that I like the stuff for that application or not. It looks like it may have a slight glue line on one veneer but I don't know what will become of it since it has some ways to go before finish size.

I used to use much larger billets to cut my V's into. This allowed much more of the V inlays to be inset and so supported so as to not be canted in the pocket when wrapped with surgical tubing. Since I have been using smaller diameter tapered billets, there is not as much side support so instead of using tubing i clamp with large spring clamps so that the V inlays fit tightly in the V pocket. Once this prong is finished I will then determine which glue will be used in the future.

Dick

I just got back in town and read the responses to my questions. Thank you all for the info. I do not mind ordering from Lee when he gets some in stock but does anyone have detailed info on building their own recut fixtures similar to Lee's design? Dick, Please keep us updated on your opinion of gorilla glue for installing points.

Thanks again,

Eric