Eating you own work?

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
> I've prided myself on not having problems with tips coming off with any regularity,just 3 in the last 5-6 years.

The problem is that 2 of these have been for the same customer,on the same shaft.

I haven't seen this 2nd one yet,but am almost certain his problems are temperature-related. I know the 1st one was,but replaced it for free.

He called me tonight and said he let a buddy break with his cue and the tip went flying.

The shaft has an uncapped Elforyn ferrule on it,installed by me back in January. The first tip was replaced in March.

I don't have a problem with replacing a tip if I see that something was wrong with it,but no one else is bringing them back,so I suspect his problems are more "owner-error" than installation.

At what point do I tell him he's cut off if he continues to leave his cue in the car? Tommy D.
 
So wait you mean to tell me that both tips were 6-9 months old and they poped off and he wanted them fixed pro-bono?


IMOP that is pure BS....who the hell knows what goes on in 6-9 months with a cue and its tip.

Secondly if you have a tip for 6-9 months and it pops off JUST PAY SOMEONE TO FIX IT....TIPS ARE NOT PERMANENT FIXTURES....its routine maintenance on a cue.

I don't care if it was a $20 tip.....if your too cheap to pay up 10-20 for a new tip after 6-9 months of play after a tip flying off then your too cheap to be a customer of mine thats for dam sure.

SH*t I'm I've only had a few fall off in 14 years of using the 454 and honestly at least on my cues as much play and as hard as I break I'm surprised they never give me problems.

I could see maybe going back if it happened in 1 or 2 months maybe even 3 depending on how much I was hitting balls but 6-9 months....nahhh brother thats game over time right there.

Maybe I'm wrong but thats just down right Nitty......If thats the customers that I had then I'd rather not have customers.

thats honest,
-Grey Ghost-
 
I'd probably just give him a new tip. Unless the guy is a jerk, it's not worth the possible hassle or bad rep. Especially for something as trivial as a tip...
 
I always tell my customers that if it comes off or you don't like it, I'll replace it for free. If the shaft shows no sign of abuse, then it's a free replacement. I have only attributed a swelled tenon to ferrules that have been recently changed and forcing a tip off, but 2 times between cold and hot seasons, I'd be suspecting a bad tip or glue. I'm not an expert, but have not seen leaving a cue in a car as being the reason for a tip coming off twice in a short time. I hjad an issue with certain types of ferrules, but since changing glues about 2 years ago, none since. I'd check very carefully around the ferrule and shaft for whack marks. But overall, your rep is worth more than the cost of a couple tips and labor, IMO.
Dave
 
> Got an update guys.

About an hour after I made the original post,the shaft was in my hands,and this is what I found.

The glue didn't completely fail,there were pieces of leather still firmly left on the ferrule and tenon. This is different from what I usually see in the event of a failure caused by bad glue,or the result of a drop. In those cases,the tip comes off very cleanly.

I'm puzzled as to why,but it looks like the tip itself partially came apart,but there was also a spot in the very middle of the tenon that was clean,so maybe Joey was on to something with his idea about the tenon swelling.

The customer said he asked around and said several people told him about tips I had put on years ago and were still going strong,so he said he wasn't blaming me.

He then asked me if I was using super glue for tips,and suggested that maybe using epoxy would hold up better to the heat from leaving it in his girlfriend's car,LOL.

I said no,that will just keep bringing you back.

Once I convinced him that heat=bad news for glue joints,he paid me for a new tip.

Now I have to figure out how to get the epoxied weight bolt out so I can properly re-glue the butt cap,it failed too.

That's a damn shame too. This particular cue is a 25 yr old Meucci,and was pristine as recently as 2 years ago. The nose and butt sleeve are particularly nice Pau Ferro.

Thanks for the input,Tommy D.
 
You may want to do some hot/cold testing on several glues to see if you can improve this. I treat my cues ok, but they still see all temps and I have never had one I put on pop off. That said, I'm sure it could, I'm just lucky.

The tip joint is fairly complex. You are gluing leather to plastic and wood. All 4 materials are rather dissimilar when exposed to extreme heat and cold. Still, with good sanding, lots of super glue and my tips selections, I haven't had trouble, but you surely know all that. . .IMO, that leaves me with try ing to make several samples and test them in some kind of 4 hour freezer, 4 hour oven cycle test for like 10 cycles and see which glues work best.

Good luck
 
> Got an update guys.

About an hour after I made the original post,the shaft was in my hands,and this is what I found.

The glue didn't completely fail,there were pieces of leather still firmly left on the ferrule and tenon. This is different from what I usually see in the event of a failure caused by bad glue,or the result of a drop. In those cases,the tip comes off very cleanly.

I'm puzzled as to why,but it looks like the tip itself partially came apart,but there was also a spot in the very middle of the tenon that was clean,so maybe Joey was on to something with his idea about the tenon swelling.

The customer said he asked around and said several people told him about tips I had put on years ago and were still going strong,so he said he wasn't blaming me.

He then asked me if I was using super glue for tips,and suggested that maybe using epoxy would hold up better to the heat from leaving it in his girlfriend's car,LOL.

I said no,that will just keep bringing you back.

Once I convinced him that heat=bad news for glue joints,he paid me for a new tip.

Now I have to figure out how to get the epoxied weight bolt out so I can properly re-glue the butt cap,it failed too.

That's a damn shame too. This particular cue is a 25 yr old Meucci,and was pristine as recently as 2 years ago. The nose and butt sleeve are particularly nice Pau Ferro.

Thanks for the input,Tommy D.

was the tip a emerald or what tip was it,some tips are just problems,i fix anything that comes back to me at no charge,rarely happens but its good pr,i have 1 guy who abuses his cues and comes back,i just fix whatever he did this time,i get about 30 guys that come to me directly fr his teams and reccomendation so i figure its a good tradeoff
 
> The tip was a LePro both times. I hope I explained myself well enough for him,LOL. Tommy D.
 
I also gave this suggestion a while ago on this forum. I have installed probably a couple of hundred tips and I never, ever had one layered tip come off.
The tip given to me by John Bertone of Kamui tips... After you face off the ferrule to glue the tip, use a cotton cue tip and impregnate that with some acetone and rub it on the face of the ferrule and let dry for a few minutes and glue the tip. I guarantee you it will never come off. The acetone absorbs the moisture and cleans any greasiness the ferrule might release. Only glue I have used so far is Tiger glue. My advice applies to any kind of tip...
 
something smells like fish...and that reminds me.....

> Got an update guys.

About an hour after I made the original post,the shaft was in my hands,and this is what I found.

***The glue didn't completely fail,there were pieces of leather still firmly left on the ferrule and tenon. This is different from what I usually see in the event of a failure caused by bad glue,or the result of a drop. In those cases,the tip comes off very cleanly.

I'm puzzled as to why,but it looks like the tip itself partially came apart,but there was also a spot in the very middle of the tenon that was clean,so maybe Joey was on to something with his idea about the tenon swelling.


The customer said he asked around and said several people told him about tips I had put on years ago and were still going strong,so he said he wasn't blaming me.

He then asked me if I was using super glue for tips,and suggested that maybe using epoxy would hold up better to the heat from leaving it in his girlfriend's car,LOL.

I said no,that will just keep bringing you back.

Once I convinced him that heat=bad news for glue joints,he paid me for a new tip.

Now I have to figure out how to get the epoxied weight bolt out so I can properly re-glue the butt cap,it failed too.

That's a damn shame too. This particular cue is a 25 yr old Meucci,and was pristine as recently as 2 years ago. The nose and butt sleeve are particularly nice Pau Ferro.

Thanks for the input,Tommy D.


Maybe I was a little harsh in my thoughts above, I was under the impression that the customer had gotten under your skin somehow....which got under my skin also :) but only in pool is everyone always wanting everything fixed for free, just like their free water and free table time...where the "I don't need to pay for this" mindset comes from is beyond me.....its the same with shafts that someone buys for $150 and then gets all twisted upset when it develops a some run out after a few or 3 years, as if an item like that much less items that cost that little are going to last for all eternity. Shafts, Tips, Wraps, Ferrules and the finish on the cue do have a finite life span. But when issues arrive users act as if they want a lifetime guarantee on reusable toilet paper. Just like a vehicle you change the oil, you have too. If you don't change your tip, you'll break the ferrule....if you damage the ferrule that makes the tennon and shaft succeptable to damage and so on and so on......

I definately don't think anyone should give someone the opportunity to bad mouth their business pratices or craftsmanship.....as they will run with it if you give them that power.

Some time around the early/mid 2000's I started changing out my tips regularly on my daily player/s( i only use single layer tips,Triangles...not the layered stuff).....basically i replace them about every 6 months as I find that tips can and do dry out losing some of their resiliency....

This may sound silly but works like a charm. I often burnish the sides of the tip with a little oil from my skin say off the back of my ear/nose/forhead by the swab of my finger....and just pass my finger around the shoulder....

This helps the tips to stay more pliable ( remember I'm commenting on NON-LAYERED tips), when they dry out I find that the contact surface becomes superficially hard, and is much more prone to "glassing" over.

I used to just leave my tips on till it was on its last legs.....many times after such long arduous play that may have spanned a year or so on that single tip it would start to lose adhesion in just a small spot along the radius. The tips never gave any problems but when I would see that I would just replace the tip.

Thats my whole point right there, tips are not meant to stay on with no ill effects forever. You have very much compression and power generating through that connnetion, not to mention the angular forces exerted on the tip when using certain english or miscuing......this guarantees that the leather on the tip can still have plenty of shoulder to play with but the connection eventually will start to break down in some way shape or form.

Thats the whole reason that the locktite gels with the rubber additives are becoming so popular....it can absorb shock better and not begin to break down till later in its life.

***Your description of the shaft/ferrule having the pieces of leather still stuck to the tennon/ferrule and a clean spot leads me to believe that for whatever reason he tore or manually pulled/poped the tip off at the connection seam. That leather is pretty dam tough! Its hard to tear, and the only way your going to leave amounts of tip on the glueing surface of the ferrule is if you tear/pull or whatever to remove the tip.
You even mentioned about failures prompted by bad glue or when the shaft is dropped that the tips will come off very clean, well thats because the glue fails or something was dirty/oily or not faced off properly. For pieces of the tip to be left on the shaft the fibers of the tip must tear and rip and that doesn't happen by hitting pool balls.


rambling,
-Grey Ghost-
 
> Good info here guys,maybe we should use this as a blueprint to show newer posters how to use this forum for maximum effect.

This is my exact routine.

After facing,I lightly sand the face with fresh 220. After using the long side of a blade to check for flatness,I've been wiping the face down with denatured alcohol. Maybe I'll start using the acetone as suggested.

After pressing the tip,which I always do one at a time,I sand the back on a flat block of steel that has adhesive backed 150 paper on it.

I seal the back with thin CA after scraping all the dust off with the blade,letting it soak up as much glue as it wants. If the tip soaks up all I applied,I add a little more,then wipe the excess off. The thin CA I've been using is Hobby Lobby branded,and is really HOT,leading me to believe it's rebranded Satellite City Hot Stuff.

Resand the back on a different block with 220,scrape off all the dust,and apply the glue for the installation.

I spread the glue around and get the tip as close to centered as I can. Usually at this point,even the Gorilla CA I've been using is already starting to set. I hit it with accelerator,and "torture-test" it by clamping down on the sides with a pair of pliers and apply enough force that if the glue is going to fail,it will do it in the lathe.

Other than this customer's shaft,the only other one I've had come off since before 2005 was on a house cue I retipped that got dropped and landed dead flat.

At least he wasn't a dick about it LOL. Tommy D.
 
Tommy you mentioned earlier about getting the epoxied weight bolt out....

when removing the pin from the joint you can heat it up which will break the bonds of the epoxy

since the bolt is not sticking out of the cue that poses a problem....you can't use a pen torch like you can on the joint pin

If you have a soldering gun or a wood burning pen you could use that and just touch the bolt with one of those tools....let it heat up and see if you can't get it to unscrew

I think that would be as good a route as any, unless you want to just drill it out.
 
> l

Other than this customer's shaft,the only other one I've had come off since before 2005 was on a house cue I retipped that got dropped and landed dead flat.

.
do you know what type ferrule your customer has?
If its soft or even just a moderatly hard ferrule the tenon can just slightly push past the ferrule and pop off the tip especially if he is using it to break hard with!!And it will not leave a trace of anything where the tenon was glued to the leather!
So if you'll put on a pad first and it still pops off it will let you know that this is the problem!

BTW::I see nothing wrong with putting them on the way you do,I just do it a little differant
 
> The tip was a LePro both times. I hope I explained myself well enough for him,LOL. Tommy D.

The fact that it was a LePro might be a factor as well. They are notorious for mushrooming. If the tip was badly mushroomed and extending over the sides of the ferrule, hitting the cueball off center could be putting a lot of leverage on the tip, possible contributing to the situation. That along with the temp changes could be the problem.
 
Back
Top