Bar room table or 3pc slate furniture table?

dtunget

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I've got 2 potential situations for my upstairs game room.

I can go with a 3pc slate table or I have a line on a really nice coin op table that's never been in a bar. It's a 8ft Dynamo.

Is there any downside to the coin op as far as playability and such? Assuming I maintain the rubbers and use a quality cloth?

I'm in a unique position where I can actually get the table to the room, that's a plus, but I want to make sure I'm not losing some quality of the game with the bar table.
 
I've got 2 potential situations for my upstairs game room.

I can go with a 3pc slate table or I have a line on a really nice coin op table that's never been in a bar. It's a 8ft Dynamo.

Is there any downside to the coin op as far as playability and such? Assuming I maintain the rubbers and use a quality cloth?

I'm in a unique position where I can actually get the table to the room, that's a plus, but I want to make sure I'm not losing some quality of the game with the bar table.

Dynamo's are the same as Valley tables...used, they're a dime a dozen, but you didn't mention which 3 piece slate table you were talking about as another option:grin:
 
I wouldn't bother with a "bar" table unless its a Diamond.A 9 foot table is probably better for practice/drills if you can fit it.
 
I wouldn't bother with a "bar" table unless its a Diamond.A 9 foot table is probably better for practice/drills if you can fit it.

I can't fit a 9ft table (I've considered 7ft even, because 8ft is going to be tight, 16.5 x 14.4 room). Lets say a dynamo vs an olhausen or brunswick 3pc. The Dynamo is almost new, never been in a bar, etc. It's not one of these 20 yr old bar tables that you see on craiglist for $300.

What I'm trying to figure out is if there's a real difference that an intermediate/advanced player would notice as far as play bed and rails (assuming like-new) with good cloth on the table.

I also may have a potential trade on this table:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bar/1917092843.html
 
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I would go with what table I play on mostly outside my home at tournaments and such. If you play mostly on 7' Valley's I'd get a 7' Valley and get the Ridgeback rails and close the corner pockets to under 4 1/2" as you said an 8' would be tight. It's a big pain playing on a table the you have to use short cues, jack-up all the time, and can't have a comfortable stance in some places. Of course a Diamond Smart table would be better. If you play mostly on 9' tables you'd have to see if the tight room is worth getting an 8' for. Watch the 8' Valley's, they have slate sag. Johnnyt
 
you really don't have room for an 8' table either . Even playing the 7' barbox will seem sort of cramped in a 16'x 14' room , unless there is no furniture at all .
Let me beat Glen to the punch - you really , really want a 7' Diamond ProAm. Really.

Or , you could move to a bigger apartment !
 
From my limited experience and observations I would recommend a 7 ft Diamond if you don't have room for a 9 ft Diamond.

They are by far the best and everyone loves playing on them. The rooms around here that have them charge a premium and they are always in use with players waiting in line while the other BB tables remain empty.

One room is removing a few 9 ft tables (not Diamonds) to install more of those 7 foot tables
 
What I'm trying to figure out is if there's a real difference that an intermediate/advanced player would notice as far as play bed and rails (assuming like-new) with good cloth on the table.

imo
3pc table is going to be easier to move, allow better overall leveling and the rails will be more solid = better playing table

valley/dynamo levels at the 4 legs and you will probably get tired of the thud-sounding rails after you get done cussing at the pita it will be getting it to the 2nd floor

Joe
 
8ft valley, table sag, etc, that's the stuff I needed.

I got a call from a guy this morning about trading for a 3pc 1" slate table (7ft), it's an import, I have to go look at it and see what we're dealing with, but it's brand new in the box.

I'd be trading for that table and a 50 inch plasma TV for my game room all for a used Rockola 100 CD jukebox. I have zero dollars in the juke, so these numbers are looking good to me financially. This would include the installation.

Diamond tables look like a pretty big investment, right now I need a table that plays well and gives me a chance to see how much it'll get played. If I'm playing on it regularly I would definitely look at a higher end table.

I feel the same way about a table too big for the room it's in. I wanted to have some additional furniture in the room, couch, computer, etc, and a 7ft table lends itself to that in my space, and I think it'll still be a blast to play while we're watching football or whatever on the big screen.
 
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Always better to have too small of a table for a room, than too large IMO.

I'm not sure about the floor joists vs. weight of table and/or stability of table upstairs and levelability as the joists 'settle'. I think Glen posted in
another thread about the weight of a Diamond. I'm not so sure that the added weight is a benefit in an upstairs room..... sure is great for the play of it though. May want to ask Glen, or someone who has a record of installs in that environment. I would think that a structural wall directly below the center of the table would be best, or an I beam, and 12" on center joists as opposed to 18" would be next best.

Good luck.

td
 
nice used 7" valley, thats my opinion...........thats what 75% of all tournaments are on.............:)
 
FYI , even with 7' table you won't have room for that couch , unless you plan to shoot while seated .
 
FYI , even with 7' table you won't have room for that couch , unless you plan to shoot while seated .

the couch is shallow and short. Plan B is to build a drink rail around the room, I think that'll add some character too :) Thanks for the responses everyone!
 
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