Determining adjustment for adding english

JE54

JE54

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any thoughts on adjusting for deflection when using english ? I've been using Predator shafts for quite awhile now and I'd like to go back to the original thicker shaft's. When I try to do it, I'm missing alot and by alot if adding any english. Thanks.......
 
I will try to help here.

First off "deflection" is the cue shaft-"squirt" is the cue ball. I'm going to assume that you are referring to your cue ball.

What aiming system are you using? All systems have a built in squirt adjustment, usually a +/- adjustment.

Things to consider:
Length of shot
Amount of side spin
Speed of cue stick

Set up a shot and shoot it about five times with the same Speed & Spin. Then move the cue ball away about a diamond and repeat....SPF=randyg
 
JE54 said:
Any thoughts on adjusting for deflection when using english ? I've been using Predator shafts for quite awhile now and I'd like to go back to the original thicker shaft's. When I try to do it, I'm missing alot and by alot if adding any english. Thanks.......
Click to expand...
Here is an article with several ways to deal with squirt. You may also want to read these other articles on the history and the physics of squirt.

There is no guaranteed method. Eventually you will have to do what Randy suggested, which is to practice the various spin shots that you will encounter during play.

Why do you want to go back to thicker shafts?
 
HI there,

even if 2 of the greatest already answered- you ll have to work out for sure, that you have a repeatable stroke- very important when you re doing the drill RandyG recommended. Only then you will be able to adjust english/deflection some day (or better: sooner or later^^)

lg from overseas,

Ingo
 
I was thinking that with a thicker shaft that it would be a little snugger in my bridge. My fingers are little long and the shaft has room to move side to side more then I think it should. I'm just trying everything I can to get over the hump. As far as aiming I'm using CTE & Ron V's. Which works good, but when I try to apply english with the regular shaft, the squirt has me all over the place.
 
JE54 said:
... My fingers are a little long and the shaft has room to move side to side more then I think it should. ... .
Click to expand...
You may want to work on tightening your bridge rather than relearning how you do side spin. I assume you are using a closed bridge. You may want to copy Mosconi's bridge which is well-pictured in his book "Winning Pocket Billiards" and is more secure than most closed bridges. I've found that a glove makes my bridge tighter.
 
JE54 said:
I was thinking that with a thicker shaft that it would be a little snugger in my bridge. My fingers are little long and the shaft has room to move side to side more then I think it should. I'm just trying everything I can to get over the hump. As far as aiming I'm using CTE & Ron V's. Which works good, but when I try to apply english with the regular shaft, the squirt has me all over the place.
Click to expand...



Now I might understand a little clearer.

I also use a form of CTE called SAME AIM. It is extremely important that the shaft does not shift positions in your bridge.

With CTE you use "back hand" english which is an auto-squirt aiming system. The size of the shaft should have no bearing on the shot?????
SPF=randyg
 
Thanks for all the info. Would you have a copy of that bridge picture. I think I have that book, but don't have a clue where.
 
Then you think if I was to go back, I would have to find the pivot point for each cue / shaft, to apply BHE.
 
JE54 said:
Thanks for all the info. Would you have a copy of that bridge picture. I think I have that book, but don't have a clue where.
Click to expand...

Essentially Mosconi's bridge is snugger because the entire portion of the index finger between the fingertip and the first knuckle is between the thumb and middle finger, thus tightening the hole.

I just got these photos off the internet. They aren't of Willie but this gives you an idea of what it looks like. The first photo is pretty descriptive and clearly shows how that last segment of the index finger is sandwiched between the thumb and middle finger. The second photo is sort of half-way there but it gives you an idea how from that angle the thumb is covering the last segment of the finger:

Pool bridge.jpg

poolbridge2.jpg
 
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randyg said:
Now I might understand a little clearer.

I also use a form of CTE called SAME AIM. It is extremely important that the shaft does not shift positions in your bridge.

With CTE you use "back hand" english which is an auto-squirt aiming system. The size of the shaft should have no bearing on the shot?????
SPF=randyg
Click to expand...

hi Randy :)

think i never heard the *same Aim* you re using- if it is possible to write it down i would really appreciate it if you would send it to me via PM or Email.

best wishes,

Ingo
 
Ratta said:
hi Randy :)

think i never heard the *same Aim* you re using- if it is possible to write it down i would really appreciate it if you would send it to me via PM or Email.

best wishes,

Ingo
Click to expand...

DONE....SPF=randyg
 
I tried the bridge that was posted, it's definitely better. And I found the Mosconi book, I knew I had it somewhere.
 
hey randy can you please drop me a private message explaining same aim, ive been using a few versions of hal houles methods, as well as once in a while a hip pivot , would like to hear a lil about same aim....thank you
 
mgonfishn said:
hey randy can you please drop me a private message explaining same aim, ive been using a few versions of hal houles methods, as well as once in a while a hip pivot , would like to hear a lil about same aim....thank you
Click to expand...

Call me at
1 800 707-0158
 
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