epoxys and glues

R

rheester

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
there has been some discussion regarding the use of gorilla glue vs epoxy when gluing up cores and forearms.

in a nutshell, the gorilla glue is used by many because of the expansion properties of the glue that fills up any pockets. epoxy, to my knowledge, does not expand, just running the risk of having spaces and other areas that don't have epoxy contact.

my question is, has anyone ever tried combining gorilla glue, or other glues that expand, w/ epoxy, lets say west system?

would it not mix?
would it compromise the integrity of the bonding?
would it explode?

the reason why i ask is because i like the properties of epoxy that make it solid, while gorilla glue has air pockets in it. i'm wondering if the these tiny air pockets may influence the type of transfer of energy (i.e. dampening) between cores and forearm or handle wood.

would the properties of gorilla glue create a diminishing of resonance or tonality of the woods?

thanks,
jason
 
My question is , what's preventing you from trying it ?

would the properties of gorilla glue create a diminishing of resonance or tonality of the woods?
Click to expand...
You haven't built ONE trial cue to check yourself ?
If you get 10 different opinions, what would sway you ?

Cut up some maple boards and make cues of them .
Use different glues, then YOU decide.
 
Gorilla glue

When Gorilla glue is used for a core there are no air bubbles where it counts--
at the wood to wood contact point. The air bubbles you see occur outside
of the joint. I have conducted several tests glueing up cores with Gorilla
glue, epoxy and Titebond. For this application the Gorilla glue came out best.
 
JoeyInCali said:
My question is , what's preventing you from trying it ?


You haven't built ONE trial cue to check yourself ?
If you get 10 different opinions, what would sway you ?

Cut up some maple boards and make cues of them .
Use different glues, then YOU decide.
Click to expand...

was planning on giving it a go, but wanted to see other people's experience.
 
Didn't Webb do some type of experiment with glues last year and post his results? I don't think he mixed glues, but you might get closer to your answer.... I thought it was Webb....
 
SK Custom Cues said:
Didn't Webb do some type of experiment with glues last year and post his results? I don't think he mixed glues, but you might get closer to your answer.... I thought it was Webb....
Click to expand...

I tested it.
I mixed gorilla glue, epoxy, naptha and xylene.
Best test cue I ever made.
I'm getting the mix mass produced . I am in contact with 3M right now.
 
QMAKER said:
When Gorilla glue is used for a core there are no air bubbles where it counts--
at the wood to wood contact point. The air bubbles you see occur outside
of the joint. I have conducted several tests glueing up cores with Gorilla
glue, epoxy and Titebond. For this application the Gorilla glue came out best.
Click to expand...

Hi,

My tests bare out the fact. When cross section cuts are made it reveals a solid glue line

After you core a piece and it cures overnight, hit it with a metal object on the side or on the end. The ring tone very solid.

For coring GG rules. I have made test cues that buzzed from gaps when using other glues. None of that with GG.

Rick
 
QMAKER said:
When Gorilla glue is used for a core there are no air bubbles where it counts--
at the wood to wood contact point. The air bubbles you see occur outside
of the joint. I have conducted several tests glueing up cores with Gorilla
glue, epoxy and Titebond. For this application the Gorilla glue came out best.
Click to expand...

Which gorilla glue? The light colored stuff or the dark brown?
 
whammo57 said:
there is actually a white version of GG and it's not CA
Click to expand...

They are talking about the dark Gorilla glue that is a Polyurethane type of glue that expands. Gorilla also makes a super glue and also a normal wood glue that is a lighter color than the urethane and doesn't expand. It's much cheaper and doesn't work the same.

Dick
 
whammo57 said:
there is actually a white version of GG and it's not CA
Click to expand...
The white poly glue is a quick set version.
It depends on materials being glued as to the suitability.
The white was curing before I could get all the cork rings on a cue handle.
There are also commercial grades of poly glue made specifically for the timber-joinery business.
Here is a link to a glue that is available,

http://www.purbond.com/purbond/Europe/EN/Products/Adhesives/

If you are serious about wanting a high end poly glue, you won't get better than this.

I like the long open time poly- myself.
 
rhncue said:
They are talking about the dark Gorilla glue that is a Polyurethane type of glue that expands. Gorilla also makes a super glue and also a normal wood glue that is a lighter color than the urethane and doesn't expand. It's much cheaper and doesn't work the same.

Dick
Click to expand...

My mistake ... I didn't catch that it was non expanding. They don't seem to make that clear in their adds.

Kim
 
Polyurethane glues only expand into a foam in the when unconstrained and exposed to air. For proper glue joint strength, the joint needs to be tight and close fitting, in which case there is no foam.

Some Poly's do foam less than others. The white or clear Gorilla Glue is that type.

Poly's make excellent glues for many things in cues.


For the original poster, and all those others who are thinking about building cues, and watching these threads. I can't explain how important it is to try things yourself. Sure, you can ask someone, but you don't learn anything that way. Building cues is a learned craft. You just can't get there by asking the way. When you try things first, and then come here and share your experiences others will try things first too. I can't tell you how many times a new comer to cues asked me a question, and I could have given him the answer but I didn't. I didn't because it would do him harm. For him to know what he needs to know, he needs to go through that process. Later, when he has tried for himself, we had very good conversations and I was able to help him with even more than what he originally thought he needed help with.

So, when you have questions, ask them of yourself first and see what answers you come up with. Then, if you still aren't sure, then come here and share your experience. You will then be amazed at the conversations that can take place.
 
QMAKER said:
When Gorilla glue is used for a core there are no air bubbles where it counts--
at the wood to wood contact point. The air bubbles you see occur outside
of the joint. I have conducted several tests glueing up cores with Gorilla
glue, epoxy and Titebond. For this application the Gorilla glue came out best.
Click to expand...

Ditto. It is what the glue was designed for.
 
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