Please help. This is driving me crazy.

jdxprs

jdxprs

Banned
Does anyone have advice for adjusting to different playing conditions? The relatively constant change in conditions is really hurting my game i think.

At home, I play on a very fast 8 foot table with very small pockets. 1 night a week i play on 9ft GC tables, and 1 night a week i play on slow 7ft valleys.

My problem generally seems to be inconsistency. I typically fail to run out due to missing shots I REALLY should make, and do make better than 90% of the time.

Does anyone else bounce around on different types of tables a lot and have advice that would help adjust easier or at least help me be more consistent?
 
Try to remember what tables play how. Get there a little early so you can adjust your game. No big secret. But never , ever complain to your opponent.
 
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jdxprs said:
Does anyone have advice for adjusting to different playing conditions? The relatively constant change in conditions is really hurting my game i think.

At home, I play on a very fast 8 foot table with very small pockets. 1 night a week i play on 9ft GC tables, and 1 night a week i play on slow 7ft valleys.

My problem generally seems to be inconsistency. I typically fail to run out due to missing shots I REALLY should make, and do make better than 90% of the time.

Does anyone else bounce around on different types of tables a lot and have advice that would help adjust easier or at least help me be more consistent?
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Keep playing on these different tables especially under tournament conditions and you will find yourself adjusting quicker.

A lot of players, myself included, rely too much on speed control in their patterns. Use more stop shots, simple draw and follow, small angles, and one rail shape - you can greatly reduce the speed control needed. It's easier to go from a fast table with tight pockets to a slow table with buckets than vice-versa.

Chris
 
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jdxprs said:
Does anyone have advice for adjusting to different playing conditions? The relatively constant change in conditions is really hurting my game i think.

At home, I play on a very fast 8 foot table with very small pockets. 1 night a week i play on 9ft GC tables, and 1 night a week i play on slow 7ft valleys.

My problem generally seems to be inconsistency. I typically fail to run out due to missing shots I REALLY should make, and do make better than 90% of the time.

Does anyone else bounce around on different types of tables a lot and have advice that would help adjust easier or at least help me be more consistent?
Click to expand...

One aspect that might help is:

Play Pocket speed
Especially on the barbox.
If you establish a good touch game, after awhile it will not matter what size table you are playing on.
 
Just get used to on it, dont wori too much on conditions
use ur stroke properly then it should be fine on every table coz the distance may causing u play funny sometimes.
just opinion
sam
 
I play the majority of my pool at my house (9ft diamond with old simonis). When I go somewhere else I typically try to shoot some shots I am comfortable with to get the speed of the table. I will shoot a follow shot and a draw shot with a specific distance in mind and see if I come short or long. I try to adjust from there by letting my mind take in the information.

It's also important to bounce the cb off the rails. The liveliness of the rails can play a big factor in position. If they are too springy, you will overrun your position every time and vice versa.
 
iN pOOL THERE IS SOFT AND SOFTER

LEARN TO USE MULTIPE RAILS FOR SHAPE ON ALL TABLES- THEN YOU DON'T JUST FLOAT THE BALL AROUND. 2 RAILS IS TRUE CONTROL. iT WILL MAKE YOU A BETTER PLAYER PLAYING ALL GAMES ON ALL SIZE TABLES- GOOD LUCK KEEP THE FIRE GOING! MARK USE A KAMUI BLACK TIP- IS LESS AFFECTED BY CHANGE
 
I have this problem as well. I play on awful tables at my college which are worn and have really bad roll. Then I'll go to 2 different halls, one with semi used 860 and one with brand new 860. If I go from school to new 860, I'm lost. Eventually, you'll develop the muscle memory for each different location. Just as you know how much power to use to perform a stop shot or draw at different distances, you'll learn how to play different places.

I think the best thing to do is play on one type of table. If you can't do that, could you change how you play position? I think someone above mentioned something like that. Do you know about the triangle system? Idk what it's called officially but that allows for maximum error. Most players know something like it but if you don't, you can always PM me.

Other than that? I think it just takes time. It takes me about an hour to adjust (enough) to a new table. Can you get there like an hour early and practice?
 
If you're playing on a really slow table, give yourself more angle so the cueball naturally travels farther with the same or less effort. On the faster table, the CB will tend to travel more easily so in order to keep the cue ball on a leash leave your shots straighter into the pocket. This allows the OB to soak up the majority of the CB's speed. Also, try to use more follow on the slower tables because follow is more consistent than draw, especially on slow cloth. A rolling ball is a rolling ball, no matter how far away your OB is or fast/slow your CB is moving. A draw shot relies a great deal on finding the right combination of speed, distance, and eccentricity of the hit on the CB.
 
You have to have one table that is your "home" table. This is where you establish your personal measurements. You know how far your ball will travel with your standard stroke speed. (3 speed, for those of you who have been through pool school) When you get to a new table, you simply test it to see if this table is faster or slower than your table. Adjust accordingly. Same thing with the rails. Establish a good 3 rail kick shot on your home table. Shoot that shot on the new table a couple of times to determine if it is playing shorter or longer than your home table. Adjust accordingly.

The player who adjusts to the equipment fastest is at a huge advantage.

Steve
 
I have adjustment issues too and it is pissing the hell outta me.

Hard to believe the shit I can do at home, then I get out and am visited by stupid.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
If you're playing on a really slow table, give yourself more angle so the cueball naturally travels farther with the same or less effort. On the faster table, the CB will tend to travel more easily so in order to keep the cue ball on a leash leave your shots straighter into the pocket. This allows the OB to soak up the majority of the CB's speed. Also, try to use more follow on the slower tables because follow is more consistent than draw, especially on slow cloth. A rolling ball is a rolling ball, no matter how far away your OB is or fast/slow your CB is moving. A draw shot relies a great deal on finding the right combination of speed, distance, and eccentricity of the hit on the CB.
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I was just about to post this exact info, but Lexicologist71 beat me to it!

I personally do other things like spin calibration and test kicks to dial in the rails (my 3-cushion background coming through), but these are the key principles I use to refine shot selection and position routes across different equipment.

Robert
 
TATE said:
Keep playing on these different tables especially under tournament conditions and you will find yourself adjusting quicker.

A lot of players, myself included, rely too much on speed control in their patterns. Use more stop shots, simple draw and follow, small angles, and one rail shape - you can greatly reduce the speed control needed. It's easier to go from a fast table with tight pockets to a slow table with buckets than vice-versa.

Chris
Click to expand...

Extremly good advice-
To really practice on your ability to control the speed (cb) is much too underrated (not just by *lower skilled* players. It s about the greatest advice you can give someone right on beginning to play billiards seriously- Speed-control!

lg
Ingo
 
Rather than get on a table and just start hitting balls, I usually will lag quite a few balls one rail, then two rails, and three rails with a specific objective of where the cue ball will stop. After shooting quite a few of these, I usually have a good idea how fast or slow the table is going to play.
 
Many great advices!

Would also like to say that - If you let it get to you, it will...... Accept the conditions and you will see that you will play better and better.

Chrippa
 
Chrippa said:
Would also like to say that - If you let it get to you, it will...... Accept the conditions and you will see that you will play better and better.

Chrippa
Click to expand...

Very well said. It's all in the mind. Concentrate on your stroke and speed, not on your missed shots.
 
I'm going to throw this out there for your consideration. Playing well in general is a result of confidence.

Is it at all possible, that the environment around you is making you a little nervous and playing with your focus and therefore your confidence and you either believe it it the table or subconsciously use this as a reason to miss?

I'm not asking this to be a wise guy, I'm simply pointing out how fragile our game is on more levels than we may even be aware of.
 
I only change my attitude, the mechanics stay the same. When I get on a 9' table, I tell myself "Great, I have room to maneuver." When I get on a 7' table, I tell myself "Great, all short shots". When you learn to believe what you're saying, your subconscious will make any corrections necessary. If you are thinking about it, or concerned about it, or making corrections for it, you are too busy thinking about the wrong things.
 
jdxprs said:
Does anyone have advice for adjusting to different playing conditions? The relatively constant change in conditions is really hurting my game i think.
Click to expand...

The only way you can learn is through experience. The more different types of equipment / conditions you play on, the more you develop a feel for better adapting to the different playing conditions.
 
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