Thumb tacks or staples ?
Wait, stripling with a Foredom? j/k
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A joint construction
- Thread starter brianna187
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Wait, stripling with a Foredom? j/k
You are so wrong Joey. Eric mixes a bit of Valium powder into the epoxy when he glues the rings and the A joint. A true stress relief
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That's my trophy:thumbup: At least I don't hide who I am or pretend to be something i'm not. :kma:
i did use .625 as i said for quit some time just feeling better about going to the .750 i do thank you for you view on the rings and there effect
I'm neither here nor there, Lee. I just thought i'd let you know about the troubles I had encountered & the reasoning behind it. Not everybody uses wood ring stacks like I do, nor wrapless so it may not be an issue. Using a 3/4" tenon with a buzz ring style joint is a fine joint & has been used forever with success. It just doesn't apply to every cue.
I play with a cue I built around 1989 with a 3/4" tenon. But I quit using the 3/4 tenon in the early to mid 90's and went to 5/8". I saw too many other brand cues busted at the A joint with 3/4" diameter tenons. So I felt the extra wall thickness was a plus and it has held up fine. So did the 3/4" ones I built. But I did get more buzzing with the 3/4" ones. I also found that shortening the tenon from 1 inch long to about .700" long helped reduce buzzing no mater what the diameter.
As a complete novice to cue building who has experience in other sorta related fields and has been doing some research for years, is there anything inherently wrong with using a 3" long tenon for the A joint? That's what I am planning to do, unless someone says it just doesn't work and actually knows from experience. Any solid advice would be appreciated.
3 inches of what ? No threads ?
My advice to you is to do it and then find out yourself.
Maple rods are cheap.
I think the buzz has less to do with tenon size and more to do with methods. Most come from a dry joint. Dry because of the adhesive used. Epoxy will soak into both the forearm piece AND into the handle piece, leaving very little, if any, to hold the two pieces together. When a buzz ring is used, the glue doesn't soak into the phenolics as it would into, let's say, maple. Also, longer tenons have more surface area for glue so run less of a risk to aquire the buzz.
Brush expoxy on all surfaces of both pieces and let them sits for a couple of minute. Watch what happens. Apply more glue and then connect them together.
Use too thick or too much epoxy and you run a risk of hydraulic pressure splitting the bore side of the connection.
There is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all with adhesives.
Brush expoxy on all surfaces of both pieces and let them sits for a couple of minute. Watch what happens. Apply more glue and then connect them together.
Use too thick or too much epoxy and you run a risk of hydraulic pressure splitting the bore side of the connection.
There is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all with adhesives.
GREAT WORDS AND TIPS Ryan.
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One more thing....what I stated about gluing does not address the stress issue that Eric was discussing earlier in the thread. My post was only about what I know about buzzing. You guys will have to figure out the stress stuff on your own.
Is there anything wrong with using a 4" tenon at around .7" diameter?
i know of a guy who has been doing this with no failures, and me makes a nicer than average cue. Doesnt mean i'm going to try it. I like the additional pc of mind that threads are actually holding the cue together. Ultimately, with todays glues theres a good chance you could get away with it. But your not going to find many advocates of this construction method here.
The thing with threads, and I have said it before, is that they are an internal clamp. The more accurately executed they are, the more consistent & even pressure they apply. Once the glue cures they become obsolete. You can clamp the forearm & butt together without threads but then you are applying linear pressure to the entire cue, which is an entirely new can of worms to deal with. Point being, there's no reason to not use threads. You are doing more work to not use them and it's a higher risk of force warping the cue.
His cues would hit better if they had threads in there imho.
I saw it done and it buzzed like everything. The guy was at my place helping me set up some equipment and he wound up cutting the cue apart.