Awesome- thanks. I'm going to look into that shaft. On a side note, how come a lot of smaller diameter shafts get the "pro" name added onto them, like the classic pro? This seems to indicate that it's a better shaft for pro players, which I don't think is really the case..?
Shafts breaking, suggestion?
- Thread starter Kurt
- Start date
Awesome- thanks. I'm going to look into that shaft. On a side note, how come a lot of smaller diameter shafts get the "pro" name added onto them, like the classic pro? This seems to indicate that it's a better shaft for pro players, which I don't think is really the case..?
Kurt, I hope I've been helpful. I also agree with what grindz said, as well as what Black-Balled noted. I believe most of us are delivering the same message, just different wordings.
If you read grindz's post carefully, the last part might actually be the solution to the problem. I've witnessed, and I meant way too many times, forcefully draw the CB back to the other side of table, is utterly unnecessary. Sometimes, simply following the CB firm with inside english and coming out 3-rail is the right shot. For whatever reason it is, many young and/or immature pool players just simply refuse the learn the characteristic (i.e. deflection) of the cue he/she is playing.
If you read grindz's post carefully, the last part might actually be the solution to the problem. I've witnessed, and I meant way too many times, forcefully draw the CB back to the other side of table, is utterly unnecessary. Sometimes, simply following the CB firm with inside english and coming out 3-rail is the right shot. For whatever reason it is, many young and/or immature pool players just simply refuse the learn the characteristic (i.e. deflection) of the cue he/she is playing.
Yah, I know the shot you're talking about..however it seemed to me at the time that draw was the only option. It was a straight shot with no angle whatsoever..so it seemed to me that I wouldn't be able to put top right on it without scratching..or at least not at my skill level.
And, for the record, I wasn't disagreeing with what black-balled said, but just in the mocking way he said it, followed up by a smart quip about comparing myself to Mike Sigel, which was taken completely out of the context of the conversation.
Black-Balled is mean to everybody. I suspect that if he keeps up this behavior, one day he's going to piss off the wrong person...and he's going to wake up to find a red dot on his user cp.
TheThaiger
Banned
Firstly, change your tip. I've just put a kamui black medium on my 314-2, and it allows table length draws with ease. Secondly, McDermott I series are pretty much indestructible, I'd say. Maybe not to everyone's tastes, but they're solid, with a carbon fibre (?) core.
Black-Balled is mean to everybody. I suspect that if he keeps up this behavior, one day he's going to piss off the wrong person...and he's going to wake up to find a red dot on his user cp.
That will just ruin his day
:thumbup: Go Walter Go :thumbup:
Dave
Please do not mistake my brevity for lack of worth...
There is a serious problem with your form and it should be addressed.
In addition to breaking fewer shafts, the necessary change will likely benefit your game in other positive ways.
I am very smart and know many words.
Chary of my wrath!!
Chary of my wrath!!
Play with the Scruggs
Play with your TS and ditch the aftermarket shafts. The problem lies in your stroke. Your money is much better spent on lessons with a professional instructor.
If you are bending your shaft that much it is having no impact on your shot. If you slow-mo some video you'll find that all of that bending starts after the cueball is a foot down the table. If you were putting that much force through the cue ball you would be destroying the cloth. The bend happens after the shot in your follow through when you jump up/ elevate your shoulder.
Don't find "better" equipment that will allow you to further exaggerate bad habits. you are playing with a frickin TS, the problem ain't the cue.
flame away...
Play with your TS and ditch the aftermarket shafts. The problem lies in your stroke. Your money is much better spent on lessons with a professional instructor.
If you are bending your shaft that much it is having no impact on your shot. If you slow-mo some video you'll find that all of that bending starts after the cueball is a foot down the table. If you were putting that much force through the cue ball you would be destroying the cloth. The bend happens after the shot in your follow through when you jump up/ elevate your shoulder.
Don't find "better" equipment that will allow you to further exaggerate bad habits. you are playing with a frickin TS, the problem ain't the cue.
flame away...
Ain't no fire here, folks.
This is kind of a funny story.
Predator had their Z of course - the first one like this, 11.75 mm small tip, strong Euro style modified taper.
Then Royce followed suit with the OB2 and later named the solid version "OB Classic Pro" - I think it was early last year - 11.75 mm -
Then Tiger came up with the Tiger Pro X shaft just a few months later - 11.75 mm. I always figured Tiger knew OB had the Pro name on their shaft and they were trying to associate the smaller tip with the word "Pro". So a few months ago, I was discussing it with Tony from Tiger - and he had this puzzled look on his face. I realized he had no idea OB was also calling their 11.75mm shaft Pro - before he did - and he was visibly embarassed!
Stuff like this happens.
Personally I think the smaller tip does take a little more skill to master, so the word "Pro" is somewhat appropriate. A lot more of the good players have gone to the smaller tip and strong taper. Before the "Z" a lot used to have cues modified like this on their own (it reduces squirt on a conventional shaft too) so that's probably where the "Pro" comes from.
Chris
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The best shafts are solid, old-growth, dense, hardrock maple. Many say that the higher the growth ring count the better, but anything over 20 gr/i is great. There are several cuemakers that use really high grade maple to make a low deflection version of the above described shafts, like Black Boar, Cash Cues (old McDaniel shop), Joe Callaluca, just to name a few. You can pm Joe Callaluca and Tommy (hangemhigh) of Cash Cues here on AZB for more information. All are made a little differently, but all achieve low end mass just like predator, etc. to give low deflection. I think they play great. Shafts are all about the wood, to me, and nothing laminated will ever feel the same. JMO. Good luck and have fun!
You may want to consider the McDermott I-2 shaft. The center core is unidirectional carbon fiber with two additional carbon fiber wraps. This makes for a very strong shaf. I recommended the I-2 because the tip diameter is 12.75mm. I play with the McDermott I-3 because I prefer the 11.75mm tip diameter. I also have a I-1 that I use as my break cue. It's really built like a tank. If you break the I-1 then you must be Superman. They have a outstanding warranty and maintenance program for the I seriies shafts. I'd really look into it on their website. I haven't seen any difference in performance between the OB-2 and the I-3. I found the ferrule distracting on the OB-2 and went to the I-3 because of the small white ferrule. Good luck in your quest and wish you luck also in modifying your stroke.
After reading the whole thread. I have a question!
When you broke these shafts was you tipping a few beers and doing many shots?? Because when I do that,,I bend and bend and bend my shaft. There's no stopping it!!!
I never broke it but I think it was sore in the morning!!:grin:
It's called "whisky stick"!! :sorry:
When you broke these shafts was you tipping a few beers and doing many shots?? Because when I do that,,I bend and bend and bend my shaft. There's no stopping it!!!
I never broke it but I think it was sore in the morning!!:grin:
It's called "whisky stick"!! :sorry:
Gotta be rough on the cloth also. I'm not sure there's any shaft that will stand up to that over time. I'm thinking concentrate on a a level stroke and stick with the Predator...
Breaking shafts on draw shots has to come from either raising up aggressively thru the stroke, having an acute impact angle due to elevating the butt of the cue, or having the grip hand way forward and levering the cue off of the closed bridge.
I would 1) Get a camera and see what it looks like you are doing. If you cannot tell on your own, post a link here and someone will likely help. 2) If you can't get a camera then try the open bridge idea in practice and see if that doesn't help expose what is generating the problem.
The low deflection shafts were designed to handle impact forces and minor sheer forces exerted on them. With your TS shaft, while you never broke it I can almost guarantee that you have destroyed the spine if you were exposing it to the same stroke dynamics.
Predator, OB, and Tiger all make great products and they have done their research. People can spout old growth maple all they want but the test results are in and Laminates are where its at for performance and CONSISTENCY. Usually when someone starts talking about old growth maple I can hear the cash register go off inside their head. Tightness of grain and quality has nothing todo with old vs new growth. It has everything todo with the tree and the processes used to age, dry and turn the wood.
I would 1) Get a camera and see what it looks like you are doing. If you cannot tell on your own, post a link here and someone will likely help. 2) If you can't get a camera then try the open bridge idea in practice and see if that doesn't help expose what is generating the problem.
The low deflection shafts were designed to handle impact forces and minor sheer forces exerted on them. With your TS shaft, while you never broke it I can almost guarantee that you have destroyed the spine if you were exposing it to the same stroke dynamics.
Predator, OB, and Tiger all make great products and they have done their research. People can spout old growth maple all they want but the test results are in and Laminates are where its at for performance and CONSISTENCY. Usually when someone starts talking about old growth maple I can hear the cash register go off inside their head. Tightness of grain and quality has nothing todo with old vs new growth. It has everything todo with the tree and the processes used to age, dry and turn the wood.
Forget the shaft, you need this cue 
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3000464&postcount=1
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?p=3000464#post3000464
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3000464&postcount=1
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?p=3000464#post3000464
Maybe you need to start dropping your elbow so your tip won't dive into the cloth so hard???
Dud
When all else fails, you can always fix one bad habit with another.
