If you want to remove the butt first, you really have no choice but to put pin down in the GTF case.
That is correct. This is because the way this style of case is made the butts and shafts must go opposite of each other. I didn't invent this size of case, I inherited it. I was asked to build a case in this style and so I did with the same size tubes as Fellini, It's George, and Ron Thomas among many others have used for the past 40 years. I don't really see your point here.
Cue damage can very easily happen when removing or replacing cues in the GTF case because of the tight fit. Its very obvious your aware of this, otherwise you would not have put out the video on how to load the GTF cases.
This is incorrect. The snug, not tight fit does not cause damage. Again this type of case is made to be very efficient with the space. Long before you were a case maker cases in this size have been on the market and did very well. Fellini, Centennial, Ann Gore, It's George, Kelli, Schon, McDermott and Ron Thomas are all brands of cases that used the same sized tubes as what we use on the GTF Cases.
The reason I made a video on how to load the case is because It's George quit making cases in 1995 and up until GTF went on the market 3 years ago only Ron Thomas was left making this style. So the public at large was out of touch with this style and how to properly load it. A lot of GTF's customers were used to the larger cases which have much more room to simply drop each part into it's cavity. Because we had gotten a few phone calls from folks who were having trouble I felt it was better to simply make a video that could be referred to as needed.
If case is dropped a tremendous amount of pressure is forced on the pin. The small amount of padding is not going to offer that much in preventing the pin from being bent. The stainless or brass pins are relatively soft and bend very easily in case your not aware of that.
I guess we will have to disagree. I will be more than happy to do a public test and prove that I can back up what I say about our cases.
In our cases it's not only the padding at the bottom which protects the cue but also the padding on the sides which keeps the cue from moving excessively.
After your telling everyone it's OK to go pin down in your cases did I feel compelled to warn our customers not to do this for obvious reason that a lot of so called experts still don't get and that includes you.
I am afraid I don't understand what you are saying here. You feel compelled to warn your customers that they shouldn't put their cues pin down in our cases?
All I know is that I believe that I might be the only case maker who has done extensive, albeit primitive, research and development on case dynamics. I won't bore you with the details but a short list of things I have done include dropping cases from six floors up, running over them, throwing them across the room, beating them with baseball bats, submerging them in water, putting them outside in the pouring rain, leaving them in the snow, leaving them in the heat, leaving them in the trunk of cars in all seasons, putting them over very hot heating vents, subjecting them to steam.......all this with cues inside and often very expensive cues at that.
So I have to believe that the way I build cases is not harmful to cues at all. And I think that 20 years and more than 25,000 cases in the market is a decent track record.
Common sense tells me pin up, tip down and I'm sticking to it
I am not sure how you figure it's common sense? As I mentioned earlier Bill Schick, the highly respected hall-of-fame cuemaker, told me specifically that he and his road buddies all used to carry their cues joint down. And I believe that this was in the pre-joint protector era as well.
And if I may, your case has no padding in the top or the bottom. So doesn't your logic apply to the top as well as the bottom. I mean if a case were to somehow accidentally land on the lid wouldn't that tremendous force you mentioned also act on the cue just as much? Please understand that I enjoy a nice discussion on case making and cue protection. I'd be more than happy to do this in a public arena and on video where we can each do live demonstrations.
I have a friend who has 10 brand new SouthWest cues that he will give me to do drop tests with. Would you be willing to do the same?
I only ask because when you make assertions as to what will and will not protect a cue and what will and will not harm a cue I stand willing to test those statements. I believe that in just about every field there are competitors who each believe that their way is best and sometimes there just has to be a head to head demonstration to test each maker's claims.
So whenever it's convenient for us both I stand ready to bring my products and allow them to be thoroughly tested using whatever claims you make about them as well as whatever claims I make about them.