G5 epoxy

cribbeecues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In Chris's video on finishing cues he uses a torch to heat the cue cote sealerto remove air bubbles; does the G5 also need to be torched when applying as a sealer? Used G5 on an ebony forearm to seal and got little white specks in the sealer, couldn't sand it out and had to strip the forearm to restart. I waited 12 hrs from application to sand. thanx
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
In Chris's video on finishing cues he uses a torch to heat the cue cote sealerto remove air bubbles; does the G5 also need to be torched when applying as a sealer? Used G5 on an ebony forearm to seal and got little white specks in the sealer, couldn't sand it out and had to strip the forearm to restart. I waited 12 hrs from application to sand. thanx

The white specs are usually sanding dust in a bubble that you have sanded the top off and left a little pit.

You can get rid of the white stuff with a small paint brush. Tape around the bristles tight leaving about 1/4 inch sticking out. Keep stabbing the white dots with the brush until they disappear. The bristles will clean out the pits.

To prevent the bubbles, heat the G5 in a microwave for 10-12 seconds to warm it. Warming the cue also helps. Rub the G5 in hard by pinching your fingers around the cue until the G5 starts to gel up. It will get squeaky.

Kim
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just used some finish cure to seal a cue and the 2 shafts that go with it. Usually I heat It up with a lamp or hair dryer, to thin It out, and that helps the bubbles escape. got to be careful with the hair dryer though can blow crap in the mix if not. I heat the container when I use that, and don't direct It on the mix itself. I did not do any of that this time. The mix was already thin enough, to get the bubbles out I simply tapped on the bottom of the container, and all the bubbles rose to the top and popped.. I use those little clear disposable plastic cups with the lids that some restaurants put catchup and dipping sauces in, so I can see through and it seemed to work really well. I'll see when I go to sanding.

I also agree on the pits holding dust, that does happen, sometimes I use a chip brush similar to what's been mentioned here already, but a fine bristle tooth brush often works too. If The specs are in the finish though or have been epoxied over then sanding them out may be the only option.
 

cribbeecues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
thanx whammo.
do heat the g5 after it is mixed or heat the bottles prior to mixing? 5 minute epoxy doesn't give a lot of working time.
 

Trent

Banned
thanx whammo.
do heat the g5 after it is mixed or heat the bottles prior to mixing 5 minute epoxy doesn't give a lot of working time.


In my opinion G5 is totally wrong for a finish epoxy if you use a better epoxy you wont have any of these problems, granted i cant finish a cue in a day with my epoxy but its something that i trust much more than a temporary bonding agent. Do your self a favor and use a longer setting epoxy one wiitth more working time and youll have piece of mind down the road aswell.

I tried 5 min epoxy once and never again will i do that i got the same bubbles and it leveled out like shit. finished the cue anyways got it looking decent gave it to the customer, 3 months later it was time for a refinish it had been bumped near some silver stich rings and the finshed popped off all the way around the ring. My other epoxy i dont have to worry about such issues.

what are you using for your finish/top coat over the epoxy?
 

cribbeecues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
trent, what brand of epoxy are using? I chose the g5 so that I could spray a clearcoat on the cue.
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
In Chris's video on finishing cues he uses a torch to heat the cue cote sealerto remove air bubbles; does the G5 also need to be torched when applying as a sealer? Used G5 on an ebony forearm to seal and got little white specks in the sealer, couldn't sand it out and had to strip the forearm to restart. I waited 12 hrs from application to sand. thanx

Cribb,

Here are some things that will prevent the bubbles or spots you are talking about. If you follow them properly your will never see those problems again.

I am a G5 person for many years and finishing a cue is a long road to get it perfect. I hope this helps you get down that road a little easier.



Like anything in cue building there are tiny details and techniques that have to be mastered and observed before you can get repeatable results that will stand up over time with your cue in the field.

Last night at one in the morning a customer dropped buy my shop and he wanted me to put a new Moori on his cue. I built this cue 3 years ago and it was one of my first floating point CNC cue with a very expensive wood combo and it was loaded with ivory with silver rings.

While he was there I buffed his cue, did the tip and reconditioned his shafts. I gave the cue the visual once over and all of the silver rings were perfect without any popping whatsoever.

I use G5 for my epoxy substrate and understand the way it is to be applied for a repeatable end result.

Here is what I have found works and I will share these things here.

Since G5 is fast acting and has a short pot life you have to have a great plan for applying it here's mine.

1. When the cue is prepped for epoxy after sanding and is perfectly clean and dust free you must bring the cue to a temperature of 80 degrees. If you fail to do this you are losing the farm.

2. Before applying the material you must bring the G5 to a temp of +80 degrees.

3. The room you work in should be at least 70. If you shop is cold you will have problems.

4. Never spread out this material on with a card, brush or any of that kind of stuff. It may work just fine for finish cure, it will ruin you coating with G5. That simple!!

5. This one is very important Since G5 has such a short pot life and gets hot pretty fast from the chemical reaction, in the first application you must not try to do the whole cue on one pass. I mix up two puddles the size of a quarter each on an index card and then mix for no less than 20 seconds and no more than 30 while I count in my head making sure I am getting a very good mix.

I do half the cue and I apply the material with my finger and press it in very hard so that it gets very solid surface area contact. I then mix up a new batch and do the back of the cue. Because it takes more time to apply this material over bare wood if you try to mix up a big batch and do the whole cue, you will find that it will be hot when you are doing the butt area and IMO you just screwed yourself big time.

Once you get the first full coat on the second batch can be mixed in two half dollar sized puddles and the material flows easy and goes on mush faster and you can do the whole cue in one pass.

6. I personally install 4 coats of G5 3 minutes apart and I can do the entire procedure to the cue in less that 15 minutes. 4 coats adds about .015 to the diameter. The 4 coats give me the head room to sand aggressively with 220 non clog sand paper to a lever about 4 or 5 thou over my sanding mandrel size where I change to 320 non clog.

I also use a right angled sanding block made of wood with a 80 durometer neoprene to cushion the paper. This gives me a perfectly flat sanded substrate that makes your cue as flat looking as a Florissant light bulb before your clear coat. If is is not perfectly flat before the clear, it won't be after clearing. This is the reason for 4 coats less than 5 minutes apart. By doing it this way you can get all the high spot down without worrying about burning through. When you are worrying about burning through, one tends to sand the high spots in small areas instead of full flat sanding the entire cue. The flat cue substrate suffers when you sand in spot areas trying to get high spots down, especially if you are worrying about burning through and having to start over. Believe me that used to happen to me all of the time. It is the dog chasing it's tail, at least that what I use to do before add the headroom layers. Since going to 4 coat, I and not burned through in over 5 years.

7. Facts about G5. I have had many conversations with engineers at West about this product and they explained to me that you can retain a chemical monolithic substrate without having to scratch sand between coats if you
apply it in less than 5 minute intervals. BTW, G5 takes 8 days to completely cure but you can usually sand in in 24 hours if the humidity is low.

Urban ledgend There are many people that are uninformed about G5. Every time this subject comes up the same old people come up and say things like "Top Tier Cue Makers won't ever use G5 or they show a West web site that says, " G5 is not intended for structural use". This is collective reasoning and is evil in my view and should be avoided at all cost to those who see any kind of truth or enlightenment in any discipline. Bring facts a data to an argument. The reason West advertises that is it is a disclaimer because their structural system requires very thin slow cure epoxies that weep through fiber mesh to to form and aggregate structure and G5 won't weep and it cures too fast for that application. It is used to tac stringers in place on boat hulls before the mesh and slow stuff is applied.

When you talk to the engineers at West they are quick to tell you that is it the highest grade of Quick Cue Epoxy in the world and it's strength properties are unreal as a gluing agent, gap filler or surface coating.

Be sure of this one thing, I am not telling anyone to change to or use this stuff and it is your own choice what you do in your shop. It is much easier to spread on Finish cure with a spatula or what ever than it is to master the technique of applying G5 for sure. My mentor came from the Omega DPK Shop here in Illinois and they used 5 minute epoxy for the gluing apps in their cue making joinery. If you read DPK's book you will also see he used it too.

So it is very amusing to me when I hear the same old same old comments here knocking some product they don't know how to use because of urban legend that has no basis?????:deadhorse:

Using and learning all of the things about 5 minute G5 is all about proper planning, temperature control and confidence to work within it's pot life window for application and is a hard skill to master and requires work to a exact procedure control methods. If you screw any of this stuff up it can bite you. If you rush and forget to do some the right way you will pay. But I guess that is true in most everything. Haste make waste.

Like any other skill set in cue making or in life, Rome was not built in a day and it is through practice, repetition and observation only then can one be enlightened concerning any discipline. If you try it once and don't understand it can't be applied like a material that spins on the lathe to cure your going to see problems for sure. Like the Priest said to Kane on Kung Fu, "When you have walked on the the rice paper and not have left a trace of your footprint, then you shall have learned Grasshopper".

My very good friend is a CM and he has been using G5 for over 11 years on his cues and I have seen his cues go for as high $ 7500.00. There are virtually 100s of his cue that come through my pool room that I see all the time. The finishes on his cues are out of sight and there is no problem with the substrate under the finish lifting it doing anything funky. So if you have tried G5 and had a bad result I am sure if you review the precautions and limitation & actions from my procedural steps I posted here, you will find that you doubtless missed some thing I have pointed out.

There are trolls here in the forum that are going to take whacks at me and quote the WEST Website and say the same old same old stuff about top tier CM not endorsing this material for one reason or another but I say let them say and do as they do. If you want to argue against it that's fine and it is always welcome and if you do please bring some evidence not urban legend or innuendo without basis. Let share information with data and science not bull crap. We all gain when this occurs.

BTW, I could care less what any top cue maker does or says, it's their business and I don't remember any of them coming out here and making that case. If you haven't noticed, Top Tier CMs don't post here too often from my point of view.

The use of and choice of the product you use for your substrate is a big choice and it is the foundation on which you build your finish. So one must go with one of the methods that CMs use and then stick with that method and refine your tricks over time. If I personally changed from using my method right now. There would be no way that I would sell that cue as it must be obsered by me for a long period of time in the field. And one cue would never be enough. If you don't do this they will come marching back to you for a re work job.

Last week I was in the shop of one one the best CM in the world and he shared with me his method of finishing that totally blew my mind. It was way beyond my epoxy and Automotive clear coat and someday I will make that change to save 3 hours per cue in labor and get a finish that is world class ++++++. Then again I am not getting 6 to 30 grand per cue or I would go off for the 30 grand it takes for capitol plant equipment.


Again all this info in JMHO and to each their own.

Rick G

PS: I don't own any West Stock and this opinion is 100% without prejudice. LOL

As far as luster from a substrate, G5 is water clear and it creates a deep wet look through the spotlight magnification of the clear coat. This is a very important consideration. There are many other epoxies that cast an amber tone.
IMG_4733.jpg

IMG_4735.jpg
 
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whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
thanx whammo.
do heat the g5 after it is mixed or heat the bottles prior to mixing? 5 minute epoxy doesn't give a lot of working time.

Heat the bottles prior to mixing. If you heat it after it is mixed it might kick off and become a solid block.

Kim
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Hi.

I forgot to say make sure the index card you mix on is not below 70 degrees either.

Rick
 

Trent

Banned
Cribb,

Here are some things that will prevent the bubbles or spots you are talking about. If you follow them properly your will never see those problems again.

I am a G5 person for many years and finishing a cue is a long road to get it perfect. I hope this helps you get down that road a little easier.



Like anything in cue building there are tiny details and techniques that have to be mastered and observed before you can get repeatable results that will stand up over time with your cue in the field.

Last night at one in the morning a customer dropped buy my shop and he wanted me to put a new Moori on his cue. I built this cue 3 years ago and it was one of my first floating point CNC cue with a very expensive wood combo and it was loaded with ivory with silver rings.

While he was there I buffed his cue, did the tip and reconditioned his shafts. I gave the cue the visual once over and all of the silver rings were perfect without any popping whatsoever.

I use G5 for my epoxy substrate and understand the way it is to be applied for a repeatable end result.

Here is what I have found works and I will share these things here.

Since G5 is fast acting and has a short pot life you have to have a great plan for applying it here's mine.

1. When the cue is prepped for epoxy after sanding and is perfectly clean and dust free you must bring the cue to a temperature of 80 degrees. If you fail to do this you are losing the farm.

2. Before applying the material you must bring the G5 to a temp of +80 degrees.

3. The room you work in should be at least 70. If you shop is cold you will have problems.

4. Never spread out this material on with a card, brush or any of that kind of stuff. It may work just fine for finish cure, it will ruin you coating with G5. That simple!!

5. This one is very important Since G5 has such a short pot life and gets hot pretty fast from the chemical reaction, in the first application you must not try to do the whole cue on one pass. I mix up two puddles the size of a quarter each on an index card and then mix for no less than 20 seconds and no more than 30 while I count in my head making sure I am getting a very good mix.

I do half the cue and I apply the material with my finger and press it in very hard so that it gets very solid surface area contact. I then mix up a new batch and do the back of the cue. Because it takes more time to apply this material over bare wood if you try to mix up a big batch and do the whole cue, you will find that it will be hot when you are doing the butt area and IMO you just screwed yourself big time.

Once you get the first full coat on the second batch can be mixed in two half dollar sized puddles and the material flows easy and goes on mush faster and you can do the whole cue in one pass.

6. I personally install 4 coats of G5 3 minutes apart and I can do the entire procedure to the cue in less that 15 minutes. 4 coats adds about .015 to the diameter. The 4 coats give me the head room to sand aggressively with 220 non clog sand paper to a lever about 4 or 5 thou over my sanding mandrel size where I change to 320 non clog.

I also use a right angled sanding block made of wood with a 80 durometer neoprene to cushion the paper. This gives me a perfectly flat sanded substrate that makes your cue as flat looking as a Florissant light bulb before your clear coat. If is is not perfectly flat before the clear, it won't be after clearing. This is the reason for 4 coats less than 5 minutes apart. By doing it this way you can get all the high spot down without worrying about burning through. When you are worrying about burning through, one tends to sand the high spots in small areas instead of full flat sanding the entire cue. The flat cue substrate suffers when you sand in spot areas trying to get high spots down, especially if you are worrying about burning through and having to start over. Believe me that used to happen to me all of the time. It is the dog chasing it's tail, at least that what I use to do before add the headroom layers. Since going to 4 coat, I and not burned through in over 5 years.

7. Facts about G5. I have had many conversations with engineers at West about this product and they explained to me that you can retain a chemical monolithic substrate without having to scratch sand between coats if you
apply it in less than 5 minute intervals. BTW, G5 takes 8 days to completely cure but you can usually sand in in 24 hours if the humidity is low.

Urban ledgend There are many people that are uninformed about G5. Every time this subject comes up the same old people come up and say things like "Top Tier Cue Makers won't ever use G5 or they show a West web site that says, " G5 is not intended for structural use". This is collective reasoning and is evil in my view and should be avoided at all cost to those who see any kind of truth or enlightenment in any discipline. Bring facts a data to an argument. The reason West advertises that is it is a disclaimer because their structural system requires very thin slow cure epoxies that weep through fiber mesh to to form and aggregate structure and G5 won't weep and it cures too fast for that application. It is used to tac stringers in place on boat hulls before the mesh and slow stuff is applied.

When you talk to the engineers at West they are quick to tell you that is it the highest grade of Quick Cue Epoxy in the world and it's strength properties are unreal as a gluing agent, gap filler or surface coating.

Be sure of this one thing, I am not telling anyone to change to or use this stuff and it is your own choice what you do in your shop. It is much easier to spread on Finish cure with a spatula or what ever than it is to master the technique of applying G5 for sure. My mentor came from the Omega DPK Shop here in Illinois and they used 5 minute epoxy for the gluing apps in their cue making joinery. If you read DPK's book you will also see he used it too.

So it is very amusing to me when I hear the same old same old comments here knocking some product they don't know how to use because of urban legend that has no basis?????:deadhorse:

Using and learning all of the things about 5 minute G5 is all about proper planning, temperature control and confidence to work within it's pot life window for application and is a hard skill to master and requires work to a exact procedure control methods. If you screw any of this stuff up it can bite you. If you rush and forget to do some the right way you will pay. But I guess that is true in most everything. Haste make waste.

Like any other skill set in cue making or in life, Rome was not built in a day and it is through practice, repetition and observation only then can one be enlightened concerning any discipline. If you try it once and don't understand it can't be applied like a material that spins on the lathe to cure your going to see problems for sure. Like the Priest said to Kane on Kung Fu, "When you have walked on the the rice paper and not have left a trace of your footprint, then you shall have learned Grasshopper".

My very good friend is a CM and he has been using G5 for over 11 years on his cues and I have seen his cues go for as high $ 7500.00. There are virtually 100s of his cue that come through my pool room that I see all the time. The finishes on his cues are out of sight and there is no problem with the substrate under the finish lifting it doing anything funky. So if you have tried G5 and had a bad result I am sure if you review the precautions and limitation & actions from my procedural steps I posted here, you will find that you doubtless missed some thing I have pointed out.

There are trolls here in the forum that are going to take whacks at me and quote the WEST Website and say the same old same old stuff about top tier CM not endorsing this material for one reason or another but I say let them say and do as they do. If you want to argue against it that's fine and it is always welcome and if you do please bring some evidence not urban legend or innuendo without basis. Let share information with data and science not bull crap. We all gain when this occurs.

BTW, I could care less what any top cue maker does or says, it's their business and I don't remember any of them coming out here and making that case. If you haven't noticed, Top Tier CMs don't post here too often from my point of view.


The use of and choice of the product you use for your substrate is a big choice and it is the foundation on which you build your finish. So one must go with one of the methods that CMs use and then stick with that method and refine your tricks over time. If I personally changed from using my method right now. There would be no way that I would sell that cue as it must be obsered by me for a long period of time in the field. And one cue would never be enough. If you don't do this they will come marching back to you for a re work job.

Last week I was in the shop of one one the best CM in the world and he shared with me his method of finishing that totally blew my mind. It was way beyond my epoxy and Automotive clear coat and someday I will make that change to save 3 hours per cue in labor and get a finish that is world class ++++++. Then again I am not getting 6 to 30 grand per cue or I would go off for the 30 grand it takes for capitol plant equipment.


Again all this info in JMHO and to each their own.

Rick G

PS: I don't own any West Stock and this opinion is 100% without prejudice. LOL




I find it very amusing that just becuase you have the record for the longest posts in AZ history full of half truths and infomercial content, that anytime someone posts their opinion you take offense. If using 5 minute epoxy was a good thing it wouldnt be common for people to say its a hack trait in cuebuilding.
yes many of the top tier builders dont post here why would they when theres so many people who already know everything.

here comes another thread where rick gets his dick hurt because people dont share the same opinions on a shitty product so we have to have a 5000 word essay on the subject and people need to be called trolls and what not.

I guess we should all just go to the rick school of 5 minute epoxy cue buiding and bag on anyone with a diffrent opinion.

like ive said before i couldnt care less if you superglue the whole cue from start to finish what i do care about is being called a troll after trying to help someone on here with a very simple solution that works.

and you wonder why its so scarce to see builders with many yrs experience and amazing reps post, why would they their prayers are finally answered.
Now we have a public AZ icon teaching people how to be a salesman first and a hack cue builder second as long as people follow the shity responses on here those cue makers are safe building long lasting quality cues and other will still be in the hack catergory.


Trent - just another hack builder not using 5min epoxy.
Now you can bag on me like you did joey and try to bring me down :eek:
 

bruppert

<Insert witty comment>
Silver Member
Cribb,

Here are some things that will prevent the bubbles or spots you are talking about. If you follow them properly your will never see those problems again.

I am a G5 person for many years and finishing a cue is a long road to get it perfect. I hope this helps you get down that road a little easier.


Rick, thanks for that post. As always, a very clear, detailed and informative post! You always seem to go over and above a simple answer and I, for one, really appreciate it.

Have you tried the West 207SA Special Clear Hardener? I am planning to pickup some next time I get near West Marine and wondered if you or anyone else has tried it. I like the idea of a longer pot life (20 -25 mins), Cure time looks about the same, UV Stabilizers and its supposed to be extremely clear.
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
I find it very amusing that just becuase you have the record for the longest posts in AZ history full of half truths and infomercial content, that anytime someone posts their opinion you take offense. If using 5 minute epoxy was a good thing it wouldnt be common for people to say its a hack trait in cuebuilding.
yes many of the top tier builders dont post here why would they when theres so many people who already know everything.

here comes another thread where rick gets his dick hurt because people dont share the same opinions on a shitty product so we have to have a 5000 word essay on the subject and people need to be called trolls and what not.

I guess we should all just go to the rick school of 5 minute epoxy cue buiding and bag on anyone with a diffrent opinion.

like ive said before i couldnt care less if you superglue the whole cue from start to finish what i do care about is being called a troll after trying to help someone on here with a very simple solution that works.

and you wonder why its so scarce to see builders with many yrs experience and amazing reps post, why would they their prayers are finally answered.
Now we have a public AZ icon teaching people how to be a salesman first and a hack cue builder second as long as people follow the shity responses on here those cue makers are safe building long lasting quality cues and other will still be in the hack catergory.


Trent - just another hack builder not using 5min epoxy.
Now you can bag on me like you did joey and try to bring me down :eek:

Trent,

I am a salesmen for sure and make no bones about it. What's wrong with that? People who don't promote themselves are destined to a life of drudgery because they always play second fiddle. Unless they get lucky and win the loto.

The person you refer to does a good job bringing himself down when ver he criticizes me or anyone else as a hobby. Especially when he bluntly bares false witness against a neighbor through a recordable media. That is not a wise action!!! He does not need any help from me. When someone attacks another person that person has every right to defend them selves. Read the bible Trent, it contains lesson of the morality of man. You put your own twist on what you wish but somehow you can never back it up. If you wish to make statements and defend a troll, you either can't read, didn't read, don't understand or wish to mud the waters for what reason, I just can't understand.

You don't have to read my offerings and no one is bending your arm. Sorry I offended you.

The OP shared some info about his use of G5 and I weighed in with some info that may be germane and useful to his dilemma.

I like to write because I am a writer and it is a lazy Sunday morning. So sue me. I can do 5000 words standing on my head! Writers like to write, I guess you did not know that.

Some people like to share info here and I like to share because through lively discussion I learn a lot here all the time form some very smart and informed people. This is what is called peer check and review. Smart people buy into that kind of stuff in academia and the science communities and everybody get informed globally. AZ is our link to do this and as a community I think it is getting better all of the time if not for the trolls.

So go on and tell people you tried something and it is no good in your opinion. That is your right and I respect that. But get a life and don't get on my shit when I am responding to thread with a honest sharing of very open detailed and critical information that may help some else if they wish to use this certain product. You have missed the point all together.

There is an old wise adage the states, 'Lead, Follow or Get Out of the Way". Get the picture!! Let me take an opportunity to quote Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act III with my little spin on it, "The CM doth protest too much, methinks." But for what reason???????

So do and say as you wish!!!

Rick
 
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scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Rick, thanks for that post. As always, a very clear, detailed and informative post! You always seem to go over and above a simple answer and I, for one, really appreciate it.

Have you tried the West 207SA Special Clear Hardener? I am planning to pickup some next time I get near West Marine and wondered if you or anyone else has tried it. I like the idea of a longer pot life (20 -25 mins), Cure time looks about the same, UV Stabilizers and its supposed to be extremely clear.

Brupert,

I have heard about it and it sounds great, especially for a cue making application. I have gone down the path of fast cure and it would be a huge event shock in my procedures and I would have to change a lot of things.

I am not saying I won't change, but I am at a good repeatable resting point right now.

I would be very happy if you would share you experience with this new stuff down the road. I would be all ears and I know that many others would feel the same way.

Thanks,

Rick
 

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
Silver Member
Rick, thanks for that post. As always, a very clear, detailed and informative post! You always seem to go over and above a simple answer and I, for one, really appreciate it.

Have you tried the West 207SA Special Clear Hardener? I am planning to pickup some next time I get near West Marine and wondered if you or anyone else has tried it. I like the idea of a longer pot life (20 -25 mins), Cure time looks about the same, UV Stabilizers and its supposed to be extremely clear.

I've used it and its great. Water clear and hard as nails, but the cost is high and it will take it 24-48 hours to fully cure. The few cues I used it on turned out pretty good, but if you are planning on spraying clear or using a different top coat, then its not worth the cash. I'd use that rake stuff. I've only done one cue with it, but it looks pretty good, and its way cheaper than 207. The cure time is a little quicker too.

Joe
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
I've used it and its great. Water clear and hard as nails, but the cost is high and it will take it 24-48 hours to fully cure. The few cues I used it on turned out pretty good, but if you are planning on spraying clear or using a different top coat, then its not worth the cash. I'd use that rake stuff. I've only done one cue with it, but it looks pretty good, and its way cheaper than 207. The cure time is a little quicker too.

Joe

Joe,

Did you put on one coat and how thick is typical a coat.

How long to you have to spin it. I am guessing it is a slow rpm after application?

Thanks,

Rick
 

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
Silver Member
Joe,

Did you put on one coat and how thick is typical a coat.

How long to you have to spin it. I am guessing it is a slow rpm after application?

Thanks,

Rick

I turned it at 60rpm or slower on my Sherline finish lathe, and I put on a pretty good coat of it. I used mixing cups and set them on top of a heater for a minute or so to heat them up, then mixed, and applied with a foam brush. I let is spin all night. I just left the lathe on when I went in the house and then turned it off the next day when I went to work. It made the ebony really shine, but when I started using auto clear, I saw what a true shine was, lol. I'm still experimenting though, so I don't have any one way that I think is the best yet, but I will eventually find something, hopefully. Lol.

Joe
 

PaulieB

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As someone who is new at all this, I just want to thank everyone regardless of their position. The information is valuable, especially the back and forth discussion, as it allows me to see the multiple options available. With some trial and error, I can decide what is best for my personal preferences. I appreciate the chance to be "standing on the shoulders of giants".
 

bruppert

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Silver Member
I've used it and its great. Water clear and hard as nails, but the cost is high and it will take it 24-48 hours to fully cure. The few cues I used it on turned out pretty good, but if you are planning on spraying clear or using a different top coat, then its not worth the cash. I'd use that rake stuff. I've only done one cue with it, but it looks pretty good, and its way cheaper than 207. The cure time is a little quicker too.

Joe

I am planning to do a different top coat over the 207. Either brush on Ceramithane or spray on Hydrocote. Gonna try both to see what I like. I just brushed Ceramithane on a break cue and it looks good, wish it was a tad harder though. The big problem I had was how long it took, gawd, it was like 2 weeks..... apply a coat, wait an hour, another coat, wait a day, another coat...... It took almost a week to get as many coats as I wanted then another week to cure. The 207 is pretty expensive but I (like everyone else) want a really good finish and without it taking forever. I will NOT use auto finishes, just too many negatives for me.

What's the problem with applying a clear coat over the West? Oh, and what is "that rake stuff".

Bryan

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