Controlled drilling with a lever operated tailstock quill

[iusedtoberich]

If you have a Hightower, Taig, or similar lever operated tailstock quill, you have probably experienced a drill bit grabbing and being sucked right into the part you are drilling. You can use this method in the picture for extremely fine control. I use it every time I drill a hole. I came across it by accident on my lathe, and don't know how well known it is.

If you are ever on a bridgeport type mill with a quill depth nut, you can use the same technique there when drilling delicate holes.

 

[Rybord]

Great Idea!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!

 

[Bill the Cat]

Or.......

I've had the same problem on occasion. My solution was a bit simpler.

Tighten down the tailstock locking handwheel just enough to create some resistance. You want it loose enough that you can still advance the tailstock, but tight enought to prevent the drill from being pulled into the work if/when it grabs.

 

[aphelps1]

That was my solution also Bill. Works great. Thanks go to the original poster for an alternate method.

 

[Hal]

I've had the same problem on occasion. My solution was a bit simpler.

Tighten down the tailstock locking handwheel just enough to create some resistance. You want it loose enough that you can still advance the tailstock, but tight enought to prevent the drill from being pulled into the work if/when it grabs.

IMO This is the proper machining procedure.

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

I think you would be better off and more accurate by drilling a small hole to give you access with a boring bar then you can complete the job with the ultimate in accuracy and no grabbing.

Good Cuemaking,

 

[iusedtoberich]

Hi guys.

Tightening the nut does help, but it is not in the same league as the method I'm describing. You can still have jerky motion when tightening the nut. By using the carriage as a stop, you will have the highest amount of control possible.

Another advantage is you can pull the drill out to clear the chips very fast, and then return it to the exact same location very fast. Then you continue to advance the carriage slowly to complete your hole.

About hole boring, I agree with that and do in fact bore almost all my holes to their final sizes. But regardless of if you bore or not, you still have to drill holes on a regular basis, and this method makes it much more controllable when you have a smaller lever operated tailstock.

Besides making holes, this is also very useful for chamfering a hole using a chamfering bit. For instance, when chamfering the end of the shaft threads (either with or without a brass insert), you can do it with complete confidence the chamfer tool will not grab and make your chamfer too deep.

I know you can chamfer other ways (hand held razor, small file, angled boring bar, etc.), but the point I'm trying to make is that this method is extremely helpful in a variety of situations. Its an improvement to the entire machine, rather than an alternate method of doing one or two tasks.

If you try it, I think you will see how nice it is. I would go so far to say that I think Chris should add a feature on his cross slide to allow this to work right out of the box.

As always in machining, "there are a million ways to skin a cat".

Thanks for listening.

 

[cueguy]

Skin a cat

Hi guys.

As always in machining, "there are a million ways to skin a cat".

Thanks for listening.

You got that right - way #27 is crazy glue and a toothbrush ;-)

Larry

 

[Hal]

#1082 consists of using a Sham-Wow! and a tube of Liquid Nails. (The cat says, "wow" everytime)

 

[Bill the Cat]

Just to be clear.....

iusedtoberich

I just wanted you to know that I was not trying to downplay your method. It's very ingenious and more accurate than my suggestion! Just wanted to offer another option.

 

[iusedtoberich]

I know. Its sometimes hard to word suggestions here or methods without acting like there is only one way. We have all seen how "this is the only way" type of threads have gotten out of hand on this forum I try my best to keep the topic on the technique of something and its advantages and disadvantages rather than "your way sucks" or "my way is the only way" type of arguments that we have all seen over the past 5 years on here.

Anyway, we got a few different techniques to help with tailstock and holemaking operations.

Thanks all!

 

[iusedtoberich]

Bump.... was looking for an old post of mine and came across this old thread. Maybe it will help someone...

Best.

 

[Cue Crazy]

That sounds like another way to keep the bit from being pulled in, and I do something similar when drilling for weight bolts, only I use the tool post to help support the extra long drill that I use... I usually use the resistance as Bill mentioned when I have to use a drill, and have that issue of the drill being sucked in, usually only a problem with larger drills though, and As Arnot mentioned I prefer to use a boring bar, especially when making a larger hole for a plug or something of that nature, but I use them for smaller sizes too when I don't have a reamer in the size that I need.. I do use reamers for pin installations sometimes, and have good results with the ones that I have sized correctly for whatever pin I install. They also do not get sucked in the same way a drill does, and the ones that I use are pretty darn accurate, so My results are very close to the same as with a boring bar. It just makes the job a little bit faster without changing the tooling on My carriage. The main goal is accuracy, so as long as I am achieving that then I'm satisfied, and I under drill the hole a little before reaming so that It almost acts similar to a boring bar. I start the hole with center drill, and run It in until the bevel is sized at about the same size as the final hole made with the reamer will be. when I under drill with the drill bit the lead part of the hole is still accurate even if the drill did not go in perfect, and that lead part of the hole is what I use to start the reamer on, so the under drilled hole has no bearing on whether or not the reamer goes in straight. It just removes some of the material. As long as My inside champer is still there after under-drilling, and is accurate where the reamer starts out, Then It usually carries through. I guess It's similar to how some people use a pilot to start out when using a gun drill.

 

[tsp&b]

Bingo!! Right answer!!!

I think you would be better off and more accurate by drilling a small hole to give you access with a boring bar then you can complete the job with the ultimate in accuracy and no grabbing.

Good Cuemaking,

This is the correct answer... IMHO:thumbup:

 

[whammo57]

Pre drilling and then boring is the most accurate way but.....

For example, if you are just making a butt or a joint cap and know that you are going to turn that piece down 1 or 2 hundred thousands, the accuracy of the center of the hole is not critical. The hole size is.

You can stop a drill from grabbing and "screwing" it self into the hole by changing the rake on the cutting edges. It usually only happens on large drills so take them to the bench grinder and flatten the leading edge of the cutting portion so that the cutting edge is actually scraping off the material. In other words, change it from looking like a screw to making it look like a spade drill.

I was shown this by an old school machinist about 30 years ago.

Kim

 

[JoeyInCali]

Pre drilling and then boring is the most accurate way but.....

For example, if you are just making a butt or a joint cap and know that you are going to turn that piece down 1 or 2 hundred thousands, the accuracy of the center of the hole is not critical. The hole size is.

You can stop a drill from grabbing and "screwing" it self into the hole by changing the rake on the cutting edges. It usually only happens on large drills so take them to the bench grinder and flatten the leading edge of the cutting portion so that the cutting edge is actually scraping off the material. In other words, change it from looking like a screw to making it look like a spade drill.

I was shown this by an old school machinist about 30 years ago.

Kim

Most accurate way in woods is end mill boring imo.
I have helical boring bars but they don't beat the end mill spinning and cutting. :smile:
A little less messy too when you powerfeed slow and have the vacuum spout next to the hole.

 

[whammo57]

Most accurate way in woods is end mill boring imo.
I have helical boring bars but they don't beat the end mill spinning and cutting. :smile:
A little less messy too when you powerfeed slow and have the vacuum spout next to the hole.

You are right. Multi flute end mills work without grabbing. I do use end mills sometimes in the tail stock. There is a company that sells a set of end mills from 1/2 to 3/4. They are not carbide but will cut wood and phenolic just fine.


http://www.wttool.com/


Kim

 

[snipershot]

You are right. Multi flute end mills work without grabbing. I do use end mills sometimes in the tail stock. There is a company that sells a set of end mills from 1/2 to 3/4. They are not carbide but will cut wood and phenolic just fine.


http://www.wttool.com/


Kim

I found several different end mills on ebay. I bought eight 5/16 solid carbide TiN coated end mills for $25 shipped. Another guy has long end mills, like 4 and 6 inch long, for $15 or $20. I love ebay. Lol.

Joe

 

[whammo57]

I found several different end mills on ebay. I bought eight 5/16 solid carbide TiN coated end mills for $25 shipped. Another guy has long end mills, like 4 and 6 inch long, for $15 or $20. I love ebay. Lol.

Joe

Yea.... EBay is great for that. You just have to be sure the end mills have a 1/2 inch shank or less .... or they won't fit in the tail stock chuck. Or maybe you can turn them down if they are too big.


Kim