Butterfly Cue Inventor Model

DAVE_M

DAVE_M

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi guys, I'm a drafting and design student down here in New Orleans. It's my senior year and I'm always given random projects to do. So I decided for one of them, I'm going to make a butterfly cue. So far, I have the shaft made and the forearm made (partially). I used the dimensions of an OB cue shaft and the OD dimension a cuemaker mentioned his butts were.

This is what I have so far. I'm thinking about adding points in between the butterfly splices, similar to a Brunswick 360.

8024731662_184360d9f9_z.jpg

8024731808_6a8496d2f7_z.jpg


The material and colors may change, but I'm liking the contrasting colors right now. Shaft joint collar OD is .830 with a "pro taper" and the forearm OD is 1.61 (rough cut). When I get all the pieces together, I will add the taper.


ANY TIPS OR HINTS/HELP IS APPRECIATED. I'm not a cuemaker, so I'm going by what I can find on the forums/google.
 
DAVE_M said:
Hi guys, I'm a drafting and design student down here in New Orleans. It's my senior year and I'm always given random projects to do. So I decided for one of them, I'm going to make a butterfly cue. So far, I have the shaft made and the forearm made (partially). I used the dimensions of an OB cue shaft and the OD dimension a cuemaker mentioned his butts were.

This is what I have so far. I'm thinking about adding points in between the butterfly splices, similar to a Brunswick 360.

8024731662_184360d9f9_z.jpg

8024731808_6a8496d2f7_z.jpg


The material and colors may change, but I'm liking the contrasting colors right now. Shaft joint collar OD is .830 with a "pro taper" and the forearm OD is 1.61 (rough cut). When I get all the pieces together, I will add the taper.


ANY TIPS OR HINTS/HELP IS APPRECIATED. I'm not a cuemaker, so I'm going by what I can find on the forums/google.
Click to expand...


The starting OD of the forearm is larger than most cue builders start with. Usually it's around 1.375. You might taper the forearm to .100 to .150 oversize before you put the butterflies on. They are going to "pull back" significantly if you start with full size and taper later.

Kim
 
I'd sure start off with some junk wood before you ruin some good stuff - it may end up being harder than you think - especially to get the points sharp and the butterflies even.

Good Luck!!

Gary
 
Thanks guys! I'm going to experiment with it a little later. The best part about inventor is I can edit and hack away until I get it right.

That's a good point about the points coming back once it's tapered. I'll resize to a smaller OD and mess around with the tapers.
 
whammo57 said:
The starting OD of the forearm is larger than most cue builders start with. Usually it's around 1.375. You might taper the forearm to .100 to .150 oversize before you put the butterflies on. They are going to "pull back" significantly if you start with full size and taper later.

Kim
Click to expand...

a good number to use is....
for every .010" diameter decreases,
points move back approx. 1/10 of an inch
 
Messed around with a full splice cue.

8029796403_edb23d475a_c.jpg

8029796245_34ef5769e3_c.jpg


Never added in a weight bolt yet. I tried going for the Willie Hoppe style cues.
 
DAVE_M said:
Messed around with a full splice cue.



Never added in a weight bolt yet. I tried going for the Willie Hoppe style cues.
Click to expand...

Looks promising. Several people, at various times have expressed an
interest in a program that would enable them to do a detailed design
of cues. looks like this would do a good job well.

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Looks promising. Several people, at various times have expressed an
interest in a program that would enable them to do a detailed design
of cues. looks like this would do a good job well.

Dale
Click to expand...

Inventor is a great program to create parts and models. Once I get the hang of the splicing features in the program, I will post more models.
 
DAVE_M said:
Inventor is a great program to create parts and models. Once I get the hang of the splicing features in the program, I will post more models.
Click to expand...

I drew this eons ago on Inventor to find out if the point stock can be part of the tenon at the bottom ( short splice ).
It's a great program but I stopped learning due to needing more time.
It's a great assembly software too. I wished I had more time to learn so I could design machinery.
I did use it to draw mounting jigs too.
 

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I've used AutoCAD for the past 7 years and Inventor for the past 4-5 years. Inventor trumps AutoCAD as far as part building and assemblies go. I can't open .ipt files on this laptop, but next time I'm in the lab, I'll upload a photo of the actual splice geometry.
 
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