Turning a plain shaft down
- Thread starter EasyEJL
- Start date
Per forum rules, no prices for work allowed. In my area though, I think that would be $30/40 for the ferrule and non layered tip, plus maybe $20 or so for the turning down of the shaft. I would leave it win a cuemaker for a while, since a single cut that large could cause the shaft to warp if done all at once.
Hopefully by not being a cuemaker, I am in a loophole for prices(hopefully).
Hopefully by not being a cuemaker, I am in a loophole for prices(hopefully).
Its not the most expensive job in the world but certainly more costly than pulling a taper back a bit.
My question would be, why would anyone go to any expense only to ask to have an inexpensive ferrule and tip put on a professional job.
The reason I ask or mention it is because if you are going to experiment and go to the expense, the ferrule material, style and size as well as the quality of the tip can be a make it or break it as far as you liking that drastic a change in your shaft diameter.
My question would be, why would anyone go to any expense only to ask to have an inexpensive ferrule and tip put on a professional job.
The reason I ask or mention it is because if you are going to experiment and go to the expense, the ferrule material, style and size as well as the quality of the tip can be a make it or break it as far as you liking that drastic a change in your shaft diameter.
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Well, still something decent, not garbage. But as a "just for goofing around " shaft, I don't really want to sink more than $100
You didn't mention what shaft diameter you are used to playing with.
A Pred Z shaft is 11.75 and is plenty small to start with. I love my Z but another of my players has a 12 mm.
Myself, I like anything between my Z and 12.40 to 12.50. Thats just me.
Remember that you can always go smaller but very hard to go bigger. You can always pull the taper back a bit in the future if you feel you want to.
Just ask me, I am a pro at cutting boards twice and they are still too short.
The difference between ferrule material, a capped or non capped and a decent tip is pretty minor.
A Pred Z shaft is 11.75 and is plenty small to start with. I love my Z but another of my players has a 12 mm.
Myself, I like anything between my Z and 12.40 to 12.50. Thats just me.
Remember that you can always go smaller but very hard to go bigger. You can always pull the taper back a bit in the future if you feel you want to.
Just ask me, I am a pro at cutting boards twice and they are still too short.
The difference between ferrule material, a capped or non capped and a decent tip is pretty minor.
Why are you replacing the ferrule? If it's not cracked it will turn down with the shaft. If the tip is a good one it can be re-attached also as now it will be larger than the newly turned shaft and ferrule.
Dick
My T/Ds are done with the tip remaining intact, attached to the ferrule.
The tip & ferrule are cut as one.
I then move to my sanding lathe where the sanding/reducing of the shaft is done.
This lathe is fitted with a concave center in the tailstock.
2mm is a lot. Price is the same whether it's a toy shaft or a real shaft.
KJ
The tip & ferrule are cut as one.
I then move to my sanding lathe where the sanding/reducing of the shaft is done.
This lathe is fitted with a concave center in the tailstock.
2mm is a lot. Price is the same whether it's a toy shaft or a real shaft.
KJ
Hi Easy,
Just a suggestion and some input. I have been doing cue repair for 9 years and many people come to me asking me to do what your are asking regarding a thiner shaft. I always try to talk them out of it because most people who are asking for this believe that they will get more action from the thinner shaft and somehow that will improve their game. IMO, the exact opposite is the reality to the average player because the thinner the shaft the more variables you put in the execution of the shot and the more english you put on the ball the chance of missing the ball increases. Unless you are an expert player an 11 mm shaft is kinda crazy and odds are it will not be beneficial to you at all. Efren plays with a 10.90 mm with an Elkmaster but he is a genius pro and spins almost every shot. The average short stop will not improve their shot making going down this road, I have seen it time and time again.
Nothing you can do to your shaft will help you if you are not stroking through the ball in your stoke and a tip change can improve your stroke but it is not the end all. I have a friend who plays in my room called the Mailman. He plays with a very hard tip on a 13 mm shaft. He can draw the ball over 9 feet with a very slow and effortless stroke with that very hard tip.
Like it was said here before, you can take material off but you can't put is back on.
JMHO,
Rick
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Oh yeah, I agree entirely. One of the guys on my team has a shaft turned to something like 10.75. I've shot with it for a bit, and it was fun just to play with, shooting practice shots outside of a game.
This isn't for my main shooting shaft, this is just to toy with at home in spare time, mostly doing drills + some practice games. I figure where it will help is me is that in the way it does make everything you do more extreme, it will show flaws in my stun shot stroke. So i'm thinking that by doing drills for shots that don't require draw or follow or English I will enhance my general straight stroke, and then when that is nailed down I can start on draw/follow drills, etc with it.
That sounds nothing what a 12mm "pro taper " shaft wouldn't do.
I suggest getting one made instead.
I suggest getting one made instead.
Hey just buy some W/D paper
No Charge! Hey just buy some W/D paper and sand it dry test shooting every once in a while...tear in half then fold in half
and cup it in your hand and sand away turnon the cue as you sand!
No Charge! Hey just buy some W/D paper and sand it dry test shooting every once in a while...tear in half then fold in half
and cup it in your hand and sand away turnon the cue as you sand!
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