Follow Qclean with Qslick. That should seal it. Finally, Burnish it well. I burnish with green, then yellow Qsmooth papers. Then I final burnish with an leather piece and put on a good coat of cue wax. Buff it with a towel and its good to go!
Is it possible to clean all of the dirt off of a shaft without sanding it?
- Thread starter justinb386
- Start date
Follow Qclean with Qslick. That should seal it. Finally, Burnish it well. I burnish with green, then yellow Qsmooth papers. Then I final burnish with an leather piece and put on a good coat of cue wax. Buff it with a towel and its good to go!
Yep, pretty much why I mentioned using a sanding sealer if you are going to bare the wood.
But hey, if you guys like to have 30 years of funk on your shafts, have at her.
justinb386
Banned
I just want the shaft to be smooth, and it is not (it feels very rough). I actually like the dirty used look on shafts. I know that I see a good players shaft when ever I see that long dirty grained in look all the way down the taper of a shaft. I just thought that getting the shaft to look like new might help the resale value of the cue if I decide to sell it. I do not know how to burnish a shaft. I feel so stupid not knowing any of this stuff after all the years that I have played the game, lol. I used to use a product called Nicks Edge. It was a bunch of colored papers (blue, red, green, and maybe 1 other color I think). Is that what you use to burnish a shaft? Thanks.
i use a piece of leather....
Here's some links to different products.... obviously you can make some from what you have lying around at home. An old belt works pretty good.
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/porshaf.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/tishsmbu.html
http://www.seyberts.com/catalog/Shaft_Care-15.html
I hope these help.
shaft kleen
becareful of anything with bleech might turn your shaft green.
mr clean magic eraser<
or dish soap and water. denatured alcohol
you will need to reseal the shaft and wax .
as repairs go part of the job of a tip replacment is to clean and reseal the shaft then wax.
most cue repairman will clean seal and rewax shaft for 10.00.
talkes abot 10 or 15 min.
if you do not reseal the shaft more chalk will get into the grain
pay for shipping i will do it fort free
MMike
becareful of anything with bleech might turn your shaft green.
mr clean magic eraser<
or dish soap and water. denatured alcohol
you will need to reseal the shaft and wax .
as repairs go part of the job of a tip replacment is to clean and reseal the shaft then wax.
most cue repairman will clean seal and rewax shaft for 10.00.
talkes abot 10 or 15 min.
if you do not reseal the shaft more chalk will get into the grain
pay for shipping i will do it fort free
MMike
Agree with most
I've come around to using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Original slightly soaked with Rubbing Alcohol (70% Isopropyl). Keep it off the glued tip interface, and wipe it very very dry when complete with paper towels. After an hour, I follow with rough, then smooth, sides of a Q-Wiz shaft cleaner disk. Works great.
I'm sure that some small amount of shaft material is removed, but I decided it's not significant.
RL
I've come around to using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Original slightly soaked with Rubbing Alcohol (70% Isopropyl). Keep it off the glued tip interface, and wipe it very very dry when complete with paper towels. After an hour, I follow with rough, then smooth, sides of a Q-Wiz shaft cleaner disk. Works great.
I'm sure that some small amount of shaft material is removed, but I decided it's not significant.
RL
120 on the way Buddy. Youse is a nice guy. But then, I've seen pics of your wife. You probably get her to gnaw the dirt off the shafts.
Thats not necessarily the sign of a good player as much as its a sign of laziness. Look at it this way, you buy a brand new car. Do you wash it when it gets dirty or do you let 10 years of funk build up on it. You wash your undies and socks right?
People call it Patina. What it really is, is grease, dirt, snot, ear wax etc, and whatever else you get on your hands. Maybe even some Poo if your finger goes thru the paper.
No amount of Patina Funk can replace a well maintained waxed shaft.
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remind me if we ever meet,not to shake your hand.
Maybe a belly bump would be safer:smile:
Ferrules and woods shrink and swell at different rates with environmental changes and with age. It is not uncommon to find the ferrule having a bit of a lip as a cue ages. The only solution for that is to have it properly fixed on a lathe.
.
Once you go down this path of having a new looking shaft you are married to it for the life of the shaft and you will constantly be working on it.
My personal preference is for a blued shaft. And, in my experience, what you will find is that, over time, the chalk and body oil (and ear wax and snot) will act as a sealant and give you a very slick shaft that will need little maintenance other than a quick wipe down over the life of the shaft. Before I go out to play I spray a couple of shots of 409 on a paper towel and wipe down the shaft which cleans off any surface chalk and dirt and I'm good to go -- I never need to hit it with any kind of abrasive. At the pool hall or during a tournament, a damp paper towel is almost as good.
Lou Figueroa
My personal preference is for a blued shaft. And, in my experience, what you will find is that, over time, the chalk and body oil (and ear wax and snot) will act as a sealant and give you a very slick shaft that will need little maintenance other than a quick wipe down over the life of the shaft. Before I go out to play I spray a couple of shots of 409 on a paper towel and wipe down the shaft which cleans off any surface chalk and dirt and I'm good to go -- I never need to hit it with any kind of abrasive. At the pool hall or during a tournament, a damp paper towel is almost as good.
Lou Figueroa
You don't have to worry about a little lip on a ferrule.
That is a small problem that can be easily remedied by any repairman.
I have worked on peoples shafts that the green pot scrubbers and steel wool was used. Then, chances are you will end up with a little hour glass figure under the ferrule.
The grit on the Q Whiz and others is so fine that they won't pose a problem unless you sit in front of the tv and polish away for hours on end.
That is a small problem that can be easily remedied by any repairman.
I have worked on peoples shafts that the green pot scrubbers and steel wool was used. Then, chances are you will end up with a little hour glass figure under the ferrule.
The grit on the Q Whiz and others is so fine that they won't pose a problem unless you sit in front of the tv and polish away for hours on end.
Possible to Clean all of the Dirt off the shaft.
It is possible to clean all the dirt off the shaft without without sanding it and I did it! I met a chemical engineer and developed a product named Kleenstroke. In 1987 at the Peter Vitale (sp) tournament in Los Angeles I had Jim McDermott of McDermott Cues wanting exclusing rights to it. Kleen Stroke had 11 different ingredients in it. Three of the ingredients where used to solely to keep the liquid from penetrating the wood. Some people form the LA area may still remember it.
I started selling it and sold about 4,000 bottles of it and my partner wanted to buy me out since he had another product he wanted to use his time on. I couldn't buy him out since I got sick and had an operation that took everything I had. My partner bought me out and gave it to his daughter which eventually shelved it.
I still have the letter from McDermott Cues discussing this product.
It is possible to clean all the dirt off the shaft without without sanding it and I did it! I met a chemical engineer and developed a product named Kleenstroke. In 1987 at the Peter Vitale (sp) tournament in Los Angeles I had Jim McDermott of McDermott Cues wanting exclusing rights to it. Kleen Stroke had 11 different ingredients in it. Three of the ingredients where used to solely to keep the liquid from penetrating the wood. Some people form the LA area may still remember it.
I started selling it and sold about 4,000 bottles of it and my partner wanted to buy me out since he had another product he wanted to use his time on. I couldn't buy him out since I got sick and had an operation that took everything I had. My partner bought me out and gave it to his daughter which eventually shelved it.
I still have the letter from McDermott Cues discussing this product.
Who knows when this was last updated, but for memories sake...
http://www.heads4pool.net/catalog/details.aspx?pid=SJbkEEm2x/U=
http://www.heads4pool.net/catalog/details.aspx?pid=SJbkEEm2x/U=
Same with many shaft cleaners and slickers. Just repackaged household cleaners and ladies hair care products, that you can buy from the store for a lot cheaper.
Vim, Pantene etc. Do you actually believe that these companies have developed magic shaft cleaners etc?
They just buy it by the 10 gallon pail and put it in small bottles for you.
Vim, Pantene etc. Do you actually believe that these companies have developed magic shaft cleaners etc?
They just buy it by the 10 gallon pail and put it in small bottles for you.
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Maintaining your equipment is just part of the gig. The shaft is an extremely important part of that equation...keeping it clean and smooth is just a no-brainer, IMHO.
I use a damp ME and clean the shaft and ferrule well. I use a microfiber cloth to wipe off any excess moisture. I stand the shaft upright in-between the couch cushions for about 5 minutes, at which time I wipe it down with denatured alcohol, and let stand upright again for another 5 minutes. The denatured alcohol has no water in it whatsoever, and will extract any leftover moisture in the surface of the shaft wood left over from using the ME. 70% and 90% rubbing alcohol still contains water...which is why I use the denatured alcohol. I have found that by using this method of cleaning, that any small, shallow dingers will disappear during the process...which is a nice little bonus.
Once dry....I will use a piece of ultra fine sand paper and very very lightly sand once around the shaft....I wipe down towards the shaft collar with a microfiber cloth to remove and wood dust. Next I use the QWhiz...colored side first, on the shaft...wipe down again. Then use to burnishing side of the QWhiz...wipe down again...and then burnish away until you feel the shaft getting warm. Let it cool down, and burnish again. I do this until the shaft is baby's butt smooth. Then I burnish with a piece of leather to really seal up the wood. I have not used a wood sealer, as I have gotten amazing results with my method, and the shafts are burnished to the point of naturally sealing.
Been using this method for years, and have received raves about how nice the shafts of my cues have always been. All my team mates have me clean their cues' shafts as a result...LoL!
I actually enjoy the entire process...as it allows you to take time and inspect your cue's shaft(s) for any potential issues or damage you might not notice otherwise. I usually do it while watching the idiot box...and once you get it down to routine, takes little time.
Lastly, I will usually finish off by using Martin's Guitar Polish on the wood in the butt of my cue to clean and polish it....keeping it off the wrap, if there is one. Makes the cue shine and helps repel oils and fingerprints from your hands....smells good too!
I use a damp ME and clean the shaft and ferrule well. I use a microfiber cloth to wipe off any excess moisture. I stand the shaft upright in-between the couch cushions for about 5 minutes, at which time I wipe it down with denatured alcohol, and let stand upright again for another 5 minutes. The denatured alcohol has no water in it whatsoever, and will extract any leftover moisture in the surface of the shaft wood left over from using the ME. 70% and 90% rubbing alcohol still contains water...which is why I use the denatured alcohol. I have found that by using this method of cleaning, that any small, shallow dingers will disappear during the process...which is a nice little bonus.
Once dry....I will use a piece of ultra fine sand paper and very very lightly sand once around the shaft....I wipe down towards the shaft collar with a microfiber cloth to remove and wood dust. Next I use the QWhiz...colored side first, on the shaft...wipe down again. Then use to burnishing side of the QWhiz...wipe down again...and then burnish away until you feel the shaft getting warm. Let it cool down, and burnish again. I do this until the shaft is baby's butt smooth. Then I burnish with a piece of leather to really seal up the wood. I have not used a wood sealer, as I have gotten amazing results with my method, and the shafts are burnished to the point of naturally sealing.
Been using this method for years, and have received raves about how nice the shafts of my cues have always been. All my team mates have me clean their cues' shafts as a result...LoL!
I actually enjoy the entire process...as it allows you to take time and inspect your cue's shaft(s) for any potential issues or damage you might not notice otherwise. I usually do it while watching the idiot box...and once you get it down to routine, takes little time.
Lastly, I will usually finish off by using Martin's Guitar Polish on the wood in the butt of my cue to clean and polish it....keeping it off the wrap, if there is one. Makes the cue shine and helps repel oils and fingerprints from your hands....smells good too!
Don't believe me there Doc.
Instead of an expensive bottle of Cue Silk, try a bottle of Pantene.
How about any bottle of white creme cleaner with pumice in it.
Go to the Dollar Store and get a bottle of Vim.
Instead of an expensive bottle of Cue Silk, try a bottle of Pantene.
How about any bottle of white creme cleaner with pumice in it.
Go to the Dollar Store and get a bottle of Vim.