Shaft Cleaning Tip

Rhale100

DILLIGAF ?
Silver Member
After years of abusing hand chalk, experimenting with various liquid products, waxes, gloves, shaft conditioners etc., I took a chance and spent $2 at the Dollar Store on a box of Mr. Cleans Magic Erasers. It took all chalk bluing, dirt, sweat etc. off in minutes. My shafts look new again and are super slick. Try it, you'll like it. :thumbup:
 
After years of abusing hand chalk, experimenting with various liquid products, waxes, gloves, shaft conditioners etc., I took a chance and spent $2 at the Dollar Store on a box of Mr. Cleans Magic Erasers. It took all chalk bluing, dirt, sweat etc. off in minutes. My shafts look new again and are super slick. Try it, you'll like it. :thumbup:

Will the shaft wood dry out now because it is no longer sealed.?

Or should the shaft be resealed with shellac and alcohol, then waxed ?

I agree Magic Erasers works great as a shaft cleaner.

MMike
 
Not trying to discourage you but it is impossible to clean and polish a shft effectively with out a lathe...
 
Not trying to discourage you but it is impossible to clean and polish a shft effectively with out a lathe...

I respectfully disagree, my results were more than satisfactory with no material loss. What could be necessary beyond the removal of the foreign material (dirt,chalk, etc) from the shaft to restore it's playability ? Also, I'm not about to shell out unneeded $ on a lathe when a quick cleaning will do. Just trying to share a little money saving tip here, not school people on the proper procedure of anything.
 
Not trying to discourage you but it is impossible to clean and polish a shft effectively with out a lathe...

I respectfully disagree, my results were more than satisfactory with no material loss. What could be necessary beyond the removal of the foreign material (dirt,chalk, etc) from the shaft to restore it's playability ? Also, I'm not about to shell out unneeded $ on a lathe when a quick cleaning will do. Just trying to share a little money saving tip here, not to school people on the proper procedure of anything.
 
wood

magic eraser works great but the shaft needs to be resealed,if nothing else to stop chalk from getting into the wood grain that is now un protected.


MMike.
 
magic eraser works great but the shaft needs to be resealed,if nothing else to stop chalk from getting into the wood grain that is now un protected.

The only thing it removed from my shaft was dirt and chalk. (OB classic Pro) Used it on the whole cue and the shiny parts are still shining. Of course, your results may vary.

This product is meant for educational purposes only. Any resemblance to real pool players, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Apply only to affected area.
 
magic eraser works great but the shaft needs to be resealed,if nothing else to stop chalk from getting into the wood grain that is now un protected.


MMike.


Listen to the man, it needs to be sealed. If you search around on these forums , you will see many that highly suggest sealing the wood. Easily done with rough paper, a dollar bill, or untanned leather. You think you are fine now but can you tell what it may look like in five years?
 
2 cents

The only thing it removed from my shaft was dirt and chalk. (OB classic Pro) Used it on the whole cue and the shiny parts are still shining. Of course, your results may vary.

This product is meant for educational purposes only. Any resemblance to real pool players, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Apply only to affected area.

All my shafts are solid maple,
Shaft or wood sealer is 50/50 shellac and denature alcohol.


shellac is shit from the lac bug , this bug shit seals and protects wood but it is not a permanent sealer the acids on our hands will desolve shellac.

You guys use what you think is best.

This is what i do after the shaft is clean.

Shaft or wood sealer is 50/50 shellac and denature alcohol and it dries in seconds .
I apply 5 to 6 coats then I wax with carnauba wax. This has worked for me for years.

In order to really maintain you cue , tips ferrules and cleaning, Nothing is better then the right equipment. In this case any lathe with 34 in between centers and a 5/8 spindle bore will work.

MMike
 
After years of abusing hand chalk, experimenting with various liquid products, waxes, gloves, shaft conditioners etc., I took a chance and spent $2 at the Dollar Store on a box of Mr. Cleans Magic Erasers. It took all chalk bluing, dirt, sweat etc. off in minutes. My shafts look new again and are super slick. Try it, you'll like it. :thumbup:

Thanks for the Magic Eraser idea. Wait 'til the guys hear about this!!!

Just busting your chops Rhales, it's well known around here and a lot of guys use it to clean shafts. If you do a search you will find all kinds of ideas to maybe refine your technique with the stuff, one being denatured alcohol.

Welcome to the forum, BTW!:thumbup::D
 
Thanks for the Magic Eraser idea. Wait 'til the guys hear about this!!!

Just busting your chops Rhales, it's well known around here and a lot of guys use it to clean shafts. If you do a search you will find all kinds of ideas to maybe refine your technique with the stuff, one being denatured alcohol.

Welcome to the forum, BTW!

Yeah, apparently I was a day late and a dollar short on this one. Oh well :smile:
Thanks for the Welcome and the heads up !
 
Magic Eraser. Never would have thought of that one.

Mike, you put bug poop on your shafts? How do you get them to do that?

Wouldn't it just be easier to poop on your shafts yourself?
 
This reminds me of the not shaking hands after a match thread because people are afraid of germs. Magic erasers work really well and the grain will go back to normal after a couple plays or a good rubbing with a dry towel. As long as you're starting with a quality shaft there shouldn't be a problem unless you get the magic eraser too wet.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9650 using Tapatalk
 
shellac

Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes (pictured at right), which are dissolved in ethyl alcohol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze and wood finish. Shellac functions as a tough natural primer, sanding sealant, tannin-blocker, odour-blocker, stain, and high-gloss varnish. Shellac was once used in electrical applications as it possesses good insulation qualities and it seals out moisture. Phonograph (gramophone) records were also made of it during the pre-1950s, 78-rpm recording era.

From the time it replaced oil and wax finishes in the 19th century, shellac was one of the dominant wood finishes in the western world until it was largely replaced by nitrocellulose lacquer in the 1920s and 1930s.

Production

Shellac is scraped from the bark of the trees where the female lac bug, Kerria lacca (Order Hemiptera, Family Kerriidae) secretes it to form a tunnel-like tube as it traverses the branches of tree. Though these tunnels are sometimes referred to as "cocoons", they are not literally cocoons in the entomological sense.[1] This insect is in the same Superfamily as the insect from which cochineal is obtained. The insects suck the sap of the tree and excrete "stick-lac" almost constantly. The least coloured shellac is produced when the insects feed on the kursum tree, (Schleichera trijuga). It takes about 100,000 lac bugs to make 500 grams of shellac flakes.[2] The raw shellac, which contains bark shavings and lac bugs removed during scraping, is placed in canvas tubes (much like long socks) and heated over a fire. This causes the shellac to liquify, and it seeps out of the canvas, leaving the bark and bugs behind. The thick, sticky shellac is then dried into a flat sheet and broken into flakes, or dried into "buttons" (pucks/cakes), then bagged and sold. The end-user then crushes it into a fine powder and mixes it with ethyl alcohol prior to use to dissolve the flakes and make liquid shellac.

Liquid shellac has a limited shelf life (about 1 year), hence it is sold in dry form for dissolution prior to use. Liquid shellac sold in hardware stores is clearly marked with the production (mixing) date, so the consumer can know whether the shellac inside is still good. Alternatively, old shellac may be tested to see if it is still usable: a few drops on glass should quickly dry to a hard surface. Shellac that remains tacky for a long time is no longer usable. Storage life depends on peak temperature, so refrigeration extends shelf life.

The thickness (concentration) of shellac is measured by the unit "pound cut", referring to the amount (in pounds) of shellac flakes dissolved in a gallon of denatured alcohol. For example: a 1-lb. cut of shellac is the strength obtained by dissolving one pound of shellac flakes in a gallon of alcohol. Most pre-mixed commercial preparations come at a 3-lb. cut. Multiple thin layers of shellac produce a significantly better end result than a few thick layers. Thick layers of shellac do not adhere to the substrate or to each other well, and thus can peel off with relative ease; in addition, thick shellac will obscure fine details in carved designs in wood and other substrates.

Shellac naturally dries to a high-gloss sheen. For applications where a flatter (less shiny) sheen is desired, products containing amorphous silica,[3] such as "Shellac Flat," may be added to the dissolved shellac.

Shellac naturally contains a small amount of wax (3%-5% by volume), which comes from the lac bug. In some preparations, this wax is removed (the resulting product being called "dewaxed shellac"). This is done for applications where the shellac will be coated with something else (such as paint or varnish), so the topcoat will adhere. Waxy (non-dewaxed) shellac appears milky in liquid form, but dries clear.


Yes I put bug shit on my shaft .
MMike
 
Impossible? ......... Bullsh*t.

What is your definition of "effectively" ???????

Ok...maybe impossible was the wrong adjective, however in my opinion it takes a lathe to get the shaft consistently cleaned and resealed. Bottom line is yes you can clean a shaft by hand but not as good as you can with a lathe...and that's not "Bullshi*t" Thanks
 
The only thing it removed from my shaft was dirt and chalk. (OB classic Pro) Used it on the whole cue and the shiny parts are still shining. Of course, your results may vary.

Magic Eraser is very abrasive and will damage gloss finishes!

If you doubt this, just wash your face with it once.
 
Back
Top