Will you try to go beyond one tip later?
Are you using a low deflection shaft? or both?
Best scientific aiming explanation
- Thread starter Kid Dynomite
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Will you try to go beyond one tip later?
Are you using a low deflection shaft? or both?
I believe # of tips might be one of the limitations. I have a feeling that if you put maximum spin on the ball, there'd have to be some form of compensation.
I was first taught BHE when I got my original 314 shaft (using a Z2 now). I've used it with standard shafts as well. The only difference was bridge length.
I was first taught BHE when I got my original 314 shaft (using a Z2 now). I've used it with standard shafts as well. The only difference was bridge length.
May I know who taught you to use BHE with 314 shaft?
Dominic Esposito.
Does Dominic plays with a LD or conventional maple shaft?
Did you have any problem at time, say with two to three tips of side spin?
Going to play later today. I'll give it a try.
JC
Coos Cues
Your opinion is flawed however. All shots that arrive center pocket down the "Aiming line" are actually slightly over cut. When the balls collide the friction between them always throws the object ball slightly in a forward direction. This happens to the greatest extent at 30 degrees and lessens as shot angle changes from that in both directions, but it's always there. Your mind makes this correction automatically over time as you become proficient at aiming. If you never become proficient at aiming maybe not. If the object ball is close to the pocket it won't matter for the result of the shot but from a longer distance if you don't allow for this you will miss the shot wide. I became bored with the video and didn't watch it all so I don't know if Mr. Peabody explained this or not.
JC
I highlighted in Blue where our opinions differ!!! THROW is not quantifiable!!! We all know it happens with dirty balls and when spin is applied but the VIDEO very clearly says NO SPIN or ENGLISH and assumes very little to NO friction. The model used these variables and stated them very clearly. I do not know the reason for selecting these variables? But, to me it seems very logical to have selected them!
Kd
with a LD it is much less volatile
After I saw this I went in and tried it out. This is an interesting shot to me because when this comes up on longer shots it's the only shot I have to come off center and actually aim at the other side of the object ball. Actually it's perfect (with a regular shaft, 11.75mm) because I can aim the exact point where my tip hits the cue ball to that exact same point on the object ball and it's "wired". (not on this shot, but one that is longer)
Many players consistently over cut this shot with a regular shaft and, I would guess with an LD it is less volatile, you wouldn't allow for the deflection in this manner.
The shot you illustrated is basically a maximum "Inside Spin" shot and, even though my table was just recovered worked fine. I know this shot because it's a basis for a kicking system I use, just haven't had it come up in many games if this fashion.
What specifically was your point with the LD shaft reference?
Cool. You must be good at it.
After I saw this I went in and tried it out. This is an interesting shot to me because when this comes up on longer shots it's the only shot I have to come off center and actually aim at the other side of the object ball. Actually it's perfect (with a regular shaft, 11.75mm) because I can aim the exact point where my tip hits the cue ball to that exact same point on the object ball and it's "wired". (not on this shot, but one that is longer)
Many players consistently over cut this shot with a regular shaft and, I would guess with an LD it is less volatile, you wouldn't allow for the deflection in this manner.
The shot you illustrated is basically a maximum "Inside Spin" shot and, even though my table was just recovered worked fine. I know this shot because it's a basis for a kicking system I use, just haven't had it come up in many games if this fashion.
What specifically was your point with the LD shaft reference?
It's either 90/90 no pivot or 90/half no pivot... cant tell from my phone. Full inside with a straight cue either full or half ball alignment. It's wired, as CJ said.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
Ice,
You seem to be saying that you are having trouble applying more than one(1) tip of english using BHE with an LD shaft. I can certainly understand that if you are doing so under the exact premise of aiming for a 'normal' cut & then apply BHE. For instance in your example, given the closeness of the two(2) balls one might wind up hitting the ball too full.
I have used 'parallel' E, BHE, FHE, & combo B&FHE. I have found that even though BHE is supposed to be a 'mechanical' compensation for 'squirt', it still comes down to a matter of feel & even how one strokes the cue ball & the speed of the stroke. I have only been using LD sahfts for 8 months & to be honest I have a juiced, sanded down 314 Cat that I would never attempt BHE with as the swerve will almost always be more than the 'squirt' on any but the shortest of shots.
In other words, allow yourself to make small adjustments or try slightly different methods. For instance, if you realize that you wind up hiitting your example shot too full most of the time, you might want to set up for BHE but only go maybe 1/2 as far as you want & then add the rest by sliding your front hand the rest of the way. This will change the 'aim' of the shot, essentially adding cut to compensate for the the less 'squirt'. It may sound complicated & I quess it is a bit. But with use it becomes easier every time.
All that being said, you don't need all that much english. When I say english I don't refer to just 3:00 & 9:00. I hardly ever use those two(2). I might use 2:00 or 8:00 or less. In your example I would probably use 1:30 & try to get as much spin to speed ratio as I can. It does not require that much speed if you can get the spin. I use a soft tip for just that purpose.
Now all that being said, I'm working on CJ's method & I see that it can definitely work with much less mental & feel 'calculations'. But that shot, his way, for me, requires a firmer hit than I like or am comfortable with, but I'm getting there. I may have to switch to a firmer tip.
Sorry for the rant. I hope something in it helps you.
Regards & Shoot Well,
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Or a SuperMan Touch of Inside.
Or a SuperMan Touch of Inside.
Hey there "Spider", we haven't heard from you lately, are you fighting crime and no time for pool? :thumbup:
Or a SuperMan Touch of Inside.
Hey there "Spider", we haven't heard from you lately, are you fighting crime and no time for pool? :thumbup:
JC
Coos Cues
I only selected one variable. Throw. You do have control over spin and english but not throw. It happens no matter how you cue the ball. And to pretend it doesn't on a piece of paper is silly. There is no such thing as no friction when pool balls collide at an angle. And balls don't have to be dirty for throw to occur either. This always happens either more or less depending on conditions. But it always happens. You may not be able to quantify it on every shot but you can say as a fact that throw is always greater than zero no matter what the conditions and the speed of the shot. How much more than zero determines how much you must adjust for it if at all. This makes the aiming line through the center of the object ball to the center of the pocket in fact not the optimal contact point for center pocket aiming. Is this contact point good enough in most cases? Sure. Is it good enough in all cases? Nope! My understanding of CTE is that it's visuals have built in compensation for this law of physics. Ghost ball does not.
JC
Edit: Throw is also quantifiable mathematically, just not by Jethro in the video.
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Thanks for asking this question as I feel it deserves an answer.
As players we are not machines. There is zero about CTE PRO ONE that is mechanical in any way.
PRO ONE is as natural as it gets and there is NO limit concerning THE level of play that one can attain. THERE IS NO PIVOT IN PRO ONE.
PRO ONE is based on an objective pivoting system that can be used for testing and also as foundational to understanding the natural version of PRO ONE.
Sometimes the pivoting system is discussed in the context of manual or mechanical pivoting but it would be totally incorrect to assume that PRO ONE has a single ioda of mechanicalness to it or is limiting in any way.
Stan Shuffett
The object ball is no more than a reflection of how the cue ball is influenced
Now all that being said, I'm working on CJ's method & I see that it can definitely work with much less mental & feel 'calculations'. But that shot, his way, for me, requires a firmer hit than I like or am comfortable with, but I'm getting there. I may have to switch to a firmer tip.
Sorry for the rant. I hope something in it helps you.
Regards & Shoot Well,[/QUOTE]
I get better results when I think in terms of playing the game with the tip. In TOI it's ESSENTIAL to get the Tip perfectly square to the cue ball. This, when done properly gets your eyes in the perfect position so you can see that cue is straight, just by looking at the tip's relationship to the cue ball. When you line it up to the slight inside, you will be able to tell by the contrast if the tip is square or not.
This is the key to hitting the cue ball super straight is to pay close attention to how the tip is aligned. Focusing your eyes back and forth is not necessary once you're down, focusing on the cue ball is the most important factor. I'm just "aware" of the object ball's presence, this confirms, in my mind the cue ball as the primary target.
The object ball is no more than a reflection of how the cue ball is influenced, this is universally true for everyone. 'The Game is the Teacher'
Now all that being said, I'm working on CJ's method & I see that it can definitely work with much less mental & feel 'calculations'. But that shot, his way, for me, requires a firmer hit than I like or am comfortable with, but I'm getting there. I may have to switch to a firmer tip.
Sorry for the rant. I hope something in it helps you.
Regards & Shoot Well,[/QUOTE]
I get better results when I think in terms of playing the game with the tip. In TOI it's ESSENTIAL to get the Tip perfectly square to the cue ball. This, when done properly gets your eyes in the perfect position so you can see that cue is straight, just by looking at the tip's relationship to the cue ball. When you line it up to the slight inside, you will be able to tell by the contrast if the tip is square or not.
This is the key to hitting the cue ball super straight is to pay close attention to how the tip is aligned. Focusing your eyes back and forth is not necessary once you're down, focusing on the cue ball is the most important factor. I'm just "aware" of the object ball's presence, this confirms, in my mind the cue ball as the primary target.
The object ball is no more than a reflection of how the cue ball is influenced, this is universally true for everyone. 'The Game is the Teacher'