Laminated shaft

the breed

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Whats you guy's thoughts on cutting a carom joint (threaded wood pin) into an OB-2 or Z2 partial? Think it would stay together?
 
My first inclination is that it wouldn't be the best to use laminated shafts. The threads could be cut just fine with live tooling. But, as the cue is torqued together numerous times, the stress on the wooden threads would cause the tiny little glue joints in those threads to fail, leading to little pieces of wooden threads breaking off.

Then again, I could be totally wrong. Just my thoughts.
 
Cutting the threads to make a pin with a laminated shaft is not a problem at all. They will not fail. But you need a longer blank to start out with or the shaft will be short. Kilby at caromcues.com sells laminated wood pin shafts. 541-245-4530
 
Bob's point regarding length is valid, ie, Predator partials are 30" long.
The threaded section of the wood-thrd. shafts I've seen is maybe 2" or so.
Cutting the threads on that shaft will yield a finished length of 28" or less.
The key, use a different approach.
Cut your threads on a 1/2" wooden dowel and install that into the shaft.
No loss of length and you're not relying on a laminated pin section staying together.
I'd strongly suggest that you band/collar the jnt. of the shaft.
OK, now you've got a shaft whose overall length is approx. 32".
Finding a case to put it in may be the next problem.

KJ
 
Cut your threads on a 1/2" wooden dowel and install that into the shaft.
No loss of length and you're not relying on a laminated pin section staying together.

That's exactly what I was thinking.


I think Tiger makes billiard shafts with a phenolic screw done like this.

It may sound hokey, but could one make an adapter of sorts that screws on a pool shaft and has a wood pin to then screw into a billiard shaft? Could such a thing be structurally sound?

The reason I am theorizing is because I have a very old and very nice full splice with veneers billiard cue. It has the wood pin on the shaft that is typical. It has an ivory joint collar as well.

I originally got it thinking to convert it to a pool cue, the butt is 29 inches and the shaft is 29 1/2 including the wood screw which is 2 3/4 inches long. When put together it is "billiard length". But I just can't see converting this beautiful antique because it is in beautiful condition. But I would still like to play pool with it with a proper pool shaft.

So....am I crazy? Could such an adapter be a solution? It would be removable so that would solve the problem of finding a case long enough. Or it could even be glued to the shaft and made permanent.

The vision I have is that it would be completely internal when the cue is screwed together, nothing would be seen and the shaft face would mate directly to the butt face.


Am I crazy?

Anybody want to try to make it for me?

It could be made with a stainless pin and a wood screw, or a stainless pin and a phenolic screw....or the whole thing could be machined from a single piece of aluminum or other metal. The butt is light so making the pin adapter a little heavy might actually be a good thing.

I wouldn't be looking to use it with a laminated shaft though, just a "standard" wood pool shaft, maybe a JOSS shaft.


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I agree with KJ that installing a dowel is the best way.

You don't have to deal with the length issue and threads will cut better into a non laminated maple dowel.

By the way, over the years we've had many carom players choose our cue shafts for that game.

Royce
 
I agree with KJ that installing a dowel is the best way.

You don't have to deal with the length issue and threads will cut better into a non laminated maple dowel.

By the way, over the years we've had many carom players choose our cue shafts for that game.

Royce



Nice to hear from a real shaft "specialist".



This is the Tiger phenolic screw I mentioned earlier:


PhenolicPinShaft.jpg




.
 
my way of thinking

if you are going to put the pin in the shaft, a dowel is the best way to go. if you want the pin in the butt, and are cutting the female threads into the laminated shaft, that also can be done, but use a bit more care. i have done this both on ob1 and predators. my playing cue from about 10-12 years ago has a predator and the threads in the shaft are still just fine. i did have a problem with one laminated shaft, dont remember which one, but, i was trying to get a really really tight fit and as i screwed in the shaft it split just behind the joint ring where it had been glued, might have been a bad glue or me applying too much pressure.
my opinion, laminated shafts and wood pins play great together.
 
Nice to hear from a real shaft "specialist"..



Ron at caromcues has been using laminated shafts with integral pins for about 13 years. I know because he first bought them from me. He uses live tooling to cut the threads so yes, this would provide a nicer finish on the threads. He also created his own modified carom taper because the characteristics of the laminated shafts allowed a gentler taper.
Does a one piece wood pin work... of course.
 
Plug it up with a 9/16 threaded rod with a 5/8 portion sticking out.
When epoxy dries, turn down the 5/8 sticking out then thread it
 
Thats what I love about this site. Where else can you get the guy who patented the shaft you want to answer your questions? Thanks a bunch guys.
 
I know i started this thread a while back but would like to revisit it. What type of wood would you guys suggest for the pin? Maple is the obvious choice but could there be a better choice perhaps Purpleheart or lignum vitae?
 
I know i started this thread a while back but would like to revisit it. What type of wood would you guys suggest for the pin? Maple is the obvious choice but could there be a better choice perhaps Purpleheart or lignum vitae?

I don't know about lignum vitae but purple heart, in my opinion is a poor substitute. It is hard to thread and doesn't hold threads well. I, myself use bocota for inserts as it is hard, easy to thread and holds threads very well.

Dick
 
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