Lol. No, it's accurate. -1 means I scratched and made 1 ball afterwards.
Don't make me worst than I already am! Lol
Don't make me worst than I already am! Lol
my level of play???
- Thread starter liakos
- Start date
If you are winning half the time playing the ghost on that equiptment, you're an A player. Nice shooting.
To me this is the best game for anyone's rating that plays mostly rotation. Johnnyt
usually it is great, that day it was not, i was so sick i didnt get out of bed the next day. the whole day i was in bed. I have won the $$ since but man i played like a p*ssy that day-simple as that, no excuses. however i will live to fight another day! and yeah it's a great feeling when you win, you know your alive
JC
Coos Cues
The trouble with this is too much depends on the break. I tried it twice last night. The first time I shot a 31. When the 1, 2 or 3 ball is tied up certain ways after the break you simply aren't going far. I don't care who you are. The next set I got better breaks and shot a 71. I am neither a D player nor a pro. I think Mike Page's Fargo is a better skill level assessment. Fate doesn't affect it much.
Fargo
Created by Mike Page
Except when clearly contradicted by these additional rules, the General Rules of Pocket Billiards apply.
1. TYPE OF GAME: FARGO is a game that consists of 10 innings (or frames). The player’s game score is the total of the scores for these 10 innings. In each inning, the
player scores points until he either misses or succeeds in shooting all 15 balls. FARGO is a challenging game, with aspects of both straight pool and rotation, and is
suitable for both beginner and expert players.
2. PLAYERS: Any number of players can compete.
3. BALLS USED: A standard set of balls, 1-15, plus the cue ball.
4. THE RACK: A standard triangle rack is used. The balls are racked at the beginning of each inning for each player. The player may choose to rack his own balls and to
place balls in the rack in any order that he believes is to his advantage.
5. OBJECT OF THE GAME: To score more total points than the opponent(s) in a predetermined number of innings (300 points is the maximum in a 10 inning game).
6. SCORING: Each inning consists of a “random phase” and a “rotation phase.” In the beginning of each inning the player places a coin on the table rail with the heads up
(or some other conspicuous marking device may be used, such as a piece of paper with “random” written on one side and “rotation” on the other). Balls are then pocketed
in any order (i.e. In “random” order) and they count one point each. At any time during the inning, including before the first ball is pocketed, the player may choose to turn
the coin over. This designates the beginning of the rotation phase. After the coin flip, the lowest numbered ball on the table must be contacted first (i.e. The balls are shot in
“rotation”). Any legally pocketed balls after the coin flip count two points each. There is only a single coin flip each inning.
7. OPENING BREAK: At the start of each inning the player breaks from behind the head string and has a free break (no special balls to cushion or other requirements once
the break stroke commences, and there is no penalty for scratches or jumped balls). Any balls pocketed on the break shot or jumped off the table are spotted, and the
player begins by taking ball in hand anywhere on the table.
8. RULES OF PLAY: 8.1) FARGO is a call shot game. The player must designate the ball and call a pocket for each shot. He need not indicate kisses, caroms,
combinations, or cushions (all of which are allowed). A legally pocketed ball entitles the shooter to continue at the table until he fails to pocket legally a called ball, or until he
has pocketed all of the balls. 8.2) The player is entitled to any additional balls that are pocketed on a shot, as long as he pockets legally his called ball; the additional balls
count the same as the called ball. 8.3) Initial playing order is determined by lag, or if several opponents are playing, by lot. Shooting order for subsequent innings is
determined by the scoring results of the preceding innings – the player with the highest score shooting first. If several opponents are playing, all of the players shoot in order
of their partial scores, with the higher players going first. In the event of a tied score the playing order is the same as for the previous inning. When playing on separate
tables, or in separate locations as in an Internet competition, the player order is determined by the Tournament Director as appropriate and practical for the situation; this
includes the option of playing the entire 10 innings and reporting the scores to the Tournament Director at the end of the game.
9. PENALTY FOR FOULS: There is no point penalty for fouls; the player’s inning ends and any balls pocketed on the foul stroke do not count. After the coin flip (i.e. During
the rotation phase), contacting first an object ball other than the lowest numbered ball (a bad hit) is a foul.
Rating Scores
Pro Above 220
AA 160-120
A 130-160
B 100-130
C 60-100
D Below 60
On any of these "tests" you have to look at the long term. If you did it 10 times there might be a good average you can use. Two times isn't good enough. I keep lots of stats on drills I do. Many times I think I might have gotten better at something, when trying a new technique. My scores might go up a bit. Then a month later, after doing the same tests, the scores are back to their average from before. The picture of my scores shows lots of variation. Did I actually get better at the end with a 5.1 average instead of the mid 3's a few trials prior? Or is that just a normal variation to be expected? The data is not good enough to determine this.
This is an opinion of mine: you hear people all the time say they got a ball better, etc. What are they basing that on? Based on my own experiences, I think a lot of that is 1) either a natural variation in their playing ability, that will later return to its average, or 2) a placebo affect when trying a new technique, that artificially makes the player think they have improved, when in a few weeks, they return to their normal level of play.
There will always be bad rolls and clusters in this game - otherwise, there wouldn't be enough complexity to keep the game fascinating. Those problems are the same things you have to handle in a real game. If you can't come up with a solution, then you hand the table to your opponent.
Maybe you need to expand your imagination. If you can't pocket the OB directly, maybe there are carom and multi-rail shots to pocket a jawed ball.
There ain't any mulligans and do-overs in pool. See the table, be the table, live the table.
Why don't you go into your local pool room and find a "B" player, and play him. If he beats you then you're a "C". If you beat him, you're at least a "B".
Repeat the process with an "A" player. It'll eventually come to you.
Repeat the process with an "A" player. It'll eventually come to you.
JC
Coos Cues
I guess what I'm saying is that some rotation tables were just not meant to be run. You can imagine you saw the tooth fairy and you still aren't going to make more than a ball or two. With Fargo you always have an opportunity to solve the table without confronting impossible layouts right off the break. And your imagination is much more handy because all tables are solvable in this game and the permutations are infinite, unlike a rotation game where you must shoot the next ball next. When I play Fargo I don't have to play ten sets of ten to know where I stand. I am always in the same 10-15 point area without a wild swing due to bad luck or rolls after one set. My thought was that it's a better assessor of skill level than Joe Tuckers ten ball IMO if that's your goal. To assess where you stand. Fargo will tell you quicker and more consistently. But of course being a pool fanatic, I love to try them all.
JC
JC
Coos Cues
Why don't you go into your local pool room and find a "B" player, and play him. If he beats you then you're a "C". If you beat him, you're at least a "B".
Repeat the process with an "A" player. It'll eventually come to you.
I tried that and thought it worked just fine until I went to Vegas, got my ass handed to me and realized that the rest of the world was using a different alphabet. :smile:
JC
Why don't you go into your local pool room and find a "B" player, and play him. If he beats you then you're a "C". If you beat him, you're at least a "B".
Repeat the process with an "A" player. It'll eventually come to you.
This is the truth! Anyone who has been around knows the A B C D players in a region.
My best ever "jump in class" was I beat a local Open player (I'm a C) in a race to 5 no handicapped local tournament. I got amazingly lucky on my shots, played jam up (for me), and even pulled a few wise moves with him (we are buddies).
A good way to rate your overall pool playing ability is to take the BU playing-rating exams. See the Billiard University thread for details. FYI, the BU rating comparison table shows how your BU score and rating relate to other commonly-used player rating and handicapping systems. Good luck on the exams, which are a good way to practice.
Enjoy,
Dave
Then why don't you explain Shane not getting out here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=uFxPviW2BOM#t=2920s
I also find Fargo to be very accurate...it removes much of the luck...also allows you plenty of opportunity to break clusters, testing cueball control.
You'll never score a 30 and then a 70 in Fargo...it's way too accurate for that to happen. My scores were very tight...all within 10%... And I felt that the rating scale they explained was accurate.
Warning...I've found that you can improve your Fargo scores thru strategy a little, as I found that being patient about going after the clusters improved my score. I was going after them too soon, even when I didn't have a great shot at them...I found however, that there's so many opportunities to break them....to wait for the right time, and sink some balls first.
You'll never score a 30 and then a 70 in Fargo...it's way too accurate for that to happen. My scores were very tight...all within 10%... And I felt that the rating scale they explained was accurate.
Warning...I've found that you can improve your Fargo scores thru strategy a little, as I found that being patient about going after the clusters improved my score. I was going after them too soon, even when I didn't have a great shot at them...I found however, that there's so many opportunities to break them....to wait for the right time, and sink some balls first.