Wood for coring

Poke_N_Hope

Poke_N_Hope

Lost in Paradise
Silver Member
So..I wanted to get some thoughts on benefits of different woods for coring cues. I am thinking more I'd a fully cored design, when handle, forearm, and butt sleeve all slide over a single rod, and thread together to the rod.

Are they better woods to use? For example, purple heart is stiff and heavy...is it better than maple? Has anyone tried walnut...for its shock absorption properties...which is why it is so popular for gun stocks.
 
Poke_N_Hope said:
So..I wanted to get some thoughts on benefits of different woods for coring cues. I am thinking more I'd a fully cored design, when handle, forearm, and butt sleeve all slide over a single rod, and thread together to the rod.

Are they better woods to use? For example, purple heart is stiff and heavy...is it better than maple? Has anyone tried walnut...for its shock absorption properties...which is why it is so popular for gun stocks.
Click to expand...

The most popular wood for coring is maple. It is strong, relatively light and stays straight. Purple heart is hard, heavy and will add at least an ounce to a butt if fully cored. I have heard of using Paduak and several other woods, There is not really a need for threading but some thread the joint and/or the but cap on the core. Rather than shock absorbing qualities, one would want a core that conducted the shock of the hit through out the cue and to the players hand...............

just my thoughts and experience

Kim
 
Poke_N_Hope said:
So..I wanted to get some thoughts on benefits of different woods for coring cues. I am thinking more I'd a fully cored design, when handle, forearm, and butt sleeve all slide over a single rod, and thread together to the rod.
.
Click to expand...
How will you do that ?
Thread the forearm, handle and sleeve ?
 
JoeyInCali said:
How will you do that ?
Thread the forearm, handle and sleeve ?
Click to expand...

He probably means the ends of the core are threaded and you thread the cap and joint on at the same time to cinch everything up at once?
 
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whammo57 said:
Didn't someone show a pic of a fully threaded core?? I don;t remember who it was. You would need quite a long tap too..

Kim
Click to expand...

I don't remember seeing a pic (might have been one though), but it was discussed (at least) once. For a relatively short threaded tenon, it is easy to control the glue application and make sure everything is coated well. Imagine how difficult it might be to ensure full glue coverage for a full length threaded core.

Reyes is the one person I recall who did such an experiment and reported something akin to the threads rubbing together during play. Imagine a glue starved area at the pitch diameter of the two threads. Perhaps Joey would remember this.
 
Kelly_Guy said:
I don't remember seeing a pic (might have been one though), but it was discussed (at least) once. For a relatively short threaded tenon, it is easy to control the glue application and make sure everything is coated well. Imagine how difficult it might be to ensure full glue coverage for a full length threaded core.

Reyes is the one person I recall who did such an experiment and reported something akin to the threads rubbing together during play. Imagine a glue starved area at the pitch diameter of the two threads. Perhaps Joey would remember this.
Click to expand...

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=184913
Scott Gracio ?

Edwin did that experiment and abandoned it.
 
Kim, other than Scott, there was a young Filipino cue maker that used to post here.
He posted quite a few pics of his threaded cores. He was quite into it and did a good job of it.
If I remember correctly, he was pretty inventive with his methods.

If it was a dowel, it was threaded in some fashion.
 
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I use an breakcue from german cuemaker Cem in munich.full Core of purpleheart,it Hits a ton.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Kim, other than Scott, there was a young Filipino cue maker that used to post here.
He posted quite a few pics of his threaded cores. He was quite into it and did a good job of it.
If I remember correctly, he was pretty inventive with his methods.

If it was a dowel, it was threaded in some fashion.
Click to expand...

I missed that one.
I've threaded the bottom of the forearm dowel to the forearm piece but eventually decided it was an overkill.
The top of the dowel has threaded collar and the bottom is thread on to the handle . Threading the dowel to the forearm posed no advantage that I could think of.
Threading the WHOLE forearm and handle makes no sense to me at all.
 
Kelly_Guy said:
He probably means the ends of the core are threaded and you thread the cap and joint on at the same time to cinch everything up at once?
Click to expand...
Yes...let me clarify...I wouldn't thread the entire core...just the joint collar and butt cap tot the rod. I would turn the rod to 5/8 for the forearm and 3/4 for the handle and butt sleeve...allowing me to glue the core separately and use the threading and glue to add the tension and pressure for a tight fit and to remove glue lines in beauty ring stacks, etc...
 
house cue for coring

cue i am building at this time will have an ebony forearm and butt cap. i took an old house cue that was solid maple, cut the forearm to .62 diameter for 13 inches. i left the handle area, 12 inches full size and cut the butt area to .75 diameter.
i then drilled the ebony 1.35 diameter forearm to .62, and the 1.35 diameter buttcap to .75. i then sanded each for a very snug fit.
i scored the forearm dowel to help hold the 24 hr epoxy, i drenched all pieces and used a pipe vice, 24 hrs later it rings like a bell.
i have started the turning process, and its about ready to finish with a black and white ringtail lizard wrap. i really like the maple solid from joint to butt will help to acheive a very solid hit, and control the weight.
 
Poke_N_Hope said:
Yes...let me clarify...I wouldn't thread the entire core...just the joint collar and butt cap tot the rod. I would turn the rod to 5/8 for the forearm and 3/4 for the handle and butt sleeve...allowing me to glue the core separately and use the threading and glue to add the tension and pressure for a tight fit and to remove glue lines in beauty ring stacks, etc...
Click to expand...

Do you bore your own collars and buttplates ?
The phenolic tubes now have 5/8 and 3/4 holes on them.
Also the popular rings ( nickel, brass, fiber and veneers ) have 5/8 and 3/4 ID's.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Do you bore your own collars and buttplates ?
The phenolic tubes now have 5/8 and 3/4 holes on them.
Also the popular rings ( nickel, brass, fiber and veneers ) have 5/8 and 3/4 ID's.
Click to expand...
Yes...I either buy rod I can bore to my desired size, or buy tube that is undersized in the id, and bore to the proper size for the desired tap. For example, I found some 1.5 inch od and 5/8 inch id double black linen phenolic rod...and just bore that for a 3/4x16 tap.

I am hoping to have a threading machine in the next year or so...allowing me to use the standard rod sizes and thread anyway.
 
desi2960 said:
cue i am building at this time will have an ebony forearm and butt cap. i took an old house cue that was solid maple, cut the forearm to .62 diameter for 13 inches. i left the handle area, 12 inches full size and cut the butt area to .75 diameter.
i then drilled the ebony 1.35 diameter forearm to .62, and the 1.35 diameter buttcap to .75. i then sanded each for a very snug fit.
i scored the forearm dowel to help hold the 24 hr epoxy, i drenched all pieces and used a pipe vice, 24 hrs later it rings like a bell.
i have started the turning process, and its about ready to finish with a black and white ringtail lizard wrap. i really like the maple solid from joint to butt will help to acheive a very solid hit, and control the weight.
Click to expand...
I think that the control over balance and weight...as well as solid resonance are the big benefits to this type of design...especially since I don't have too many fancy tools..and have to keep things simple. This is especially handy for a cue of cocobolo and ebony...that needs to be 18 oz.

On an additional note...I started some playing...and think that the black walnut dowel is a bit lighter than a maple dowel....with purpleheart being heavier than maple...which might come in handy when thinking of weights and woods...and we
Amy's to get to the closer target weight with just the materials in the cue,,,and not connecting rods to weight bolts.
 
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