I would be surprised if the above was true being both cb and tip are convex.
Small shaft diameter?
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I would be surprised if the above was true being both cb and tip are convex.
The "rule of thumb" is the bigger the table the smaller the shaft
Try squeezing the tip of your cue with the bridge you are using, then keep that same pressure and it will firm up your bridge so you can use a smaller shaft size. It does have benefits on bigger tables. The "rule of thumb" is the bigger the table the smaller the shaft size, I've described the reasons on a few occasions, it's pretty much common sense.
Try squeezing the tip of your cue with the bridge you are using, then keep that same pressure and it will firm up your bridge so you can use a smaller shaft size. It does have benefits on bigger tables. The "rule of thumb" is the bigger the table the smaller the shaft size, I've described the reasons on a few occasions, it's pretty much common sense.
i prefer 12mm. No particular reason it just feels right.
Up until a year or so ago, I always played with 14mm shafts. Both on custom cues I had made and on production cues. I have small hands and I use a closed bridge almost exclusively.
I bet this was tough to play on 9' tables with, it deflects a lot when applying english. 13 is about as big as I'd every recommend. There has been a few exceptions, I believe Don McCoy of Des Moines is one that used 13.5mm.
Od
As resale goes you are better to have 12.75 to 13mm.
buyer can always have the shaft taken down.
if the shaft is smaller then 12mm then it could make it harder to sale.
I am spoiled , I have 3 shafts for my main player, All 3 shafts have different tips and one is12mm 12.75mm and 13mm.
I like the 12.75 the best. I can really switch to any shaft and not hurt my game.
Smaller shafts (seems) to miss cue less ,
I think a smaller shaft gets English with less effort. < note I didn't say more English.
Or another way of saying it is, a smaller shaft is harder to hit dead center of the cue ball,
or you get unwanted English draw or follow from time to time because you are not focused on the center of the cue ball and the bigger shaft is more forgiving .
MMike
As resale goes you are better to have 12.75 to 13mm.
buyer can always have the shaft taken down.
if the shaft is smaller then 12mm then it could make it harder to sale.
I am spoiled , I have 3 shafts for my main player, All 3 shafts have different tips and one is12mm 12.75mm and 13mm.
I like the 12.75 the best. I can really switch to any shaft and not hurt my game.
Smaller shafts (seems) to miss cue less ,
I think a smaller shaft gets English with less effort. < note I didn't say more English.
Or another way of saying it is, a smaller shaft is harder to hit dead center of the cue ball,
or you get unwanted English draw or follow from time to time because you are not focused on the center of the cue ball and the bigger shaft is more forgiving .
MMike
How is that possible when the contact patch (the part of the tip that makes contact with the cueball) is the same between tip sizes? (as long as the tip radius is constant)
Just because of deflection, or because of precision aiming? I guess my question is, if a smaller shaft decreases deflection, but increases spin, isn't it equally a problem that you may be throwing your object ball more with a smaller tip? Whether its intentional or unintentional...I dont really know anything about smaller shafts, Im just trying to get an understanding
Can you explain how shaft size has anything to do with aiming? I started playing in 1961 and never even heard of this until some time after I came to AZ in 2006. I've never heard of it anywhere else.
For the record, I play with 12 1/2, 12.7, and full 13 mm. The 13 mm are on a different cue than the other two. It's whatever feels comfortable in my bridge hand.
With a smaller shaft you get a quicker, more accurate spin
With a smaller shaft you get a quicker, more accurate spin - on big tables you will need this, on bar tables your won't (normally).
With a smaller shaft you get a quicker, more accurate spin - on big tables you will need this, on bar tables your won't (normally).
Im not speaking for everyone, but I aim with the inside edge of my shaft on most every shot. This keeps me from under-cutting a ball. Its also a feel thing as well
Interesting. What do you mean you need quicker, more accurate spin for a big table?
New here. I generally like something in the 13 mm range. I've always thought that shaft diameter is mainly about what feels right based on your hand size and bridge style. I can shape the tip on my 13mm shaft to have the same contact area and same size flat as a 12mm tip so it really doesn't have to mean you have less ability to get spin.
Welcome & I agree with you & what you say certainly sounds 'logical':wink:
I've always used a 13mm tip & have always gotten plenty of spin. The 2 LD shafts I picked up last year are 12.75 mm.
.25 of a mm is a small difference. Heck, 1 mm is a small difference. I certainly don't think the size of the tip is a deciding factor on whether or not one can actually get spin.
However, I've tried a few shafts with 11.75 mm tips & IMO the smaller tip just makes it a little easier to be precise & puts a bit more spin on the ball given the same center line of the shaft. In other words, the center line of the larger shaft just needs to be moved a bit farther off center to get the same spin.
Basically it's all just a visual thing & one can get the same spin with 14 mm vs an 11 mm tip. It's just a different visual.
So, all that being said, I guess it can all come done to how the different shafts feel in one's hand & the bridge that they use, just as you say.
How comfortable the shaft feels in one's hand may be one of, if not the most important factor when selecting a shaft.
Regards & Best Wishes,
Rick
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Smaller?
I have read some interesting stuff just now, and was wondering after hitting the cue ball where does the chalk come off from the tip? I am pretty sure that on my 12.75 diameter shaft it is pretty much localized to the inner %65 of the tip. If you are using the WHOLE tip to aim with you will have a better chance with a smaller tip I suppose. I totally agree that they do play different, but not necessarily because of the reasons you would expect, the same amount of chalk comes off of a 14mm tip or a 11.5mm tip, so the same amount of energy would be going into that one spot? Wouldn't it?
I have read some interesting stuff just now, and was wondering after hitting the cue ball where does the chalk come off from the tip? I am pretty sure that on my 12.75 diameter shaft it is pretty much localized to the inner %65 of the tip. If you are using the WHOLE tip to aim with you will have a better chance with a smaller tip I suppose. I totally agree that they do play different, but not necessarily because of the reasons you would expect, the same amount of chalk comes off of a 14mm tip or a 11.5mm tip, so the same amount of energy would be going into that one spot? Wouldn't it?
As long as the tip radius is constant then the contact patch size will be the same.
When looking at the chalk on the cue ball after the shot realize that the patch you see is larger than the actual contact area. The blowback of the chalk on the tip makes it appear larger than it really is.
Same area = same amount of energy.
When looking at the chalk on the cue ball after the shot realize that the patch you see is larger than the actual contact area. The blowback of the chalk on the tip makes it appear larger than it really is.
Same area = same amount of energy.
Small diameter tips produce less squirt (because they have less "end mass") and make it easier to see where you're hitting the CB. (there is the precision)
Small diameter tips don't:
- produce more spin
- "shoot straight no matter how hard you hit"
- make the shaft whippy (that's taper)
- "forgive less" for stroke errors
The quality of the stroke, and the ability to actually hit the precise part of the cueball that you planned to has more to do with the English you get, then by what equipment you use.
Players would do better to put more focus on the point on the cueball they need to hit for the shot, and develop an accurate repeatable stroke to get the tip to that spot.
You master that and you are on the way to be a champion.
IMHO
Small diameter tips don't:
- produce more spin
- "shoot straight no matter how hard you hit"
- make the shaft whippy (that's taper)
- "forgive less" for stroke errors
The quality of the stroke, and the ability to actually hit the precise part of the cueball that you planned to has more to do with the English you get, then by what equipment you use.
Players would do better to put more focus on the point on the cueball they need to hit for the shot, and develop an accurate repeatable stroke to get the tip to that spot.
You master that and you are on the way to be a champion.
IMHO
rmfcouch
Registered
My player is a 12.5-13mm shaft with the "pro taper", but for some reason, it doesn't feel right when I play 3C. I prefer a conical taper and smaller tip when I'm on the billiard table, but I have no idea why. Conversely, put a carom cue in my hands on a pool table, and it somehow feels wrong again.
One of these days, I'll finish off my "kit" and get a dedicated cue for my 3C excursions, but for now, I'm lucky enough to be near a billiard place with house cues for both the carom side and pool side.
One of these days, I'll finish off my "kit" and get a dedicated cue for my 3C excursions, but for now, I'm lucky enough to be near a billiard place with house cues for both the carom side and pool side.
It is possible that he means more accurate tip contact point as intended when using smaller tip, especially when putting too much english!
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