Engraving help
- Thread starter Cue
- Start date
I am probably going to go this route unless someone thinks there is a better solution?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Spindle...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4179c3a903
Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Spindle...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4179c3a903
Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
RBC
Deceased
I'm not sure if that would be much better. It looks to be a DC motor with some kind of set screw retained er collet chuck. Typically, if you use a set screw from the side, you just don't get very low runout.
I would recommend this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-TB-650-...301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da54cda5
I know it's more money, but it's a far cry from the spindles many cue makers use. I just installed dual NSK 3000 series spindles on my part cutting machine. Both complete with automatic tool change, really just an auto draw bar, would normally run close to $10,000. I bought them for half that by catching them at auction.
The little wolfgang spindle is a very good spindle. They aren't really powerful, but they have very little runout and are very well made.
Remember, you get what you pay for!
Royce
I would recommend this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-TB-650-...301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27da54cda5
I know it's more money, but it's a far cry from the spindles many cue makers use. I just installed dual NSK 3000 series spindles on my part cutting machine. Both complete with automatic tool change, really just an auto draw bar, would normally run close to $10,000. I bought them for half that by catching them at auction.
The little wolfgang spindle is a very good spindle. They aren't really powerful, but they have very little runout and are very well made.
Remember, you get what you pay for!
Royce
Allen,
I'm still learning this "new frontier" myself, but I have spent a lot of time researching these spindles as well. Of course there are the VFD driven spindles like Patrick got
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=268791
I don't have 220V in my shop, so I have this link saved away:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281140469990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
But for my first pass on my inlay/engraving, I'm going with this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271335200268?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648
I may eventually go with the VFD model with a water cooled spindle for a more permanent solution, but for the learning curve I am on, I've opted for the 400W model because of the increased torque over the 300W.
The model that you have bookmarked has a couple of drawbacks in my view. One, you still have to supply a 48VDC power source, not a big deal, but not sure if you realized that or not. Second, the torque on it is only 230 mN.m. The one I'm going with is "rated" at 500 mN.m. In my other CNC inlay thread, someone asked me if I was going to taper with my new rig. So, if I decide to taper with it, I'll want to be able to drive a bigger router bit, hence more torque will be required.
Finally, there is another 400W model where the speed controller is also a 110VAC to 48VDC converter, but it is only rated at 350 mN.m. This would be a cleaner wiring solution, but as noted, less torque for only a little less money.
Keep in mind that none of the above reasoning is based on experience with my particular new machine, but I do have some experience with 2D CNC and tapering, so it is not completely blind reasoning, either.
I will be interested to follow what you end up choosing and how it works out for you.
HTH
Gary
I'm still learning this "new frontier" myself, but I have spent a lot of time researching these spindles as well. Of course there are the VFD driven spindles like Patrick got
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=268791
I don't have 220V in my shop, so I have this link saved away:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281140469990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
But for my first pass on my inlay/engraving, I'm going with this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271335200268?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648
I may eventually go with the VFD model with a water cooled spindle for a more permanent solution, but for the learning curve I am on, I've opted for the 400W model because of the increased torque over the 300W.
The model that you have bookmarked has a couple of drawbacks in my view. One, you still have to supply a 48VDC power source, not a big deal, but not sure if you realized that or not. Second, the torque on it is only 230 mN.m. The one I'm going with is "rated" at 500 mN.m. In my other CNC inlay thread, someone asked me if I was going to taper with my new rig. So, if I decide to taper with it, I'll want to be able to drive a bigger router bit, hence more torque will be required.
Finally, there is another 400W model where the speed controller is also a 110VAC to 48VDC converter, but it is only rated at 350 mN.m. This would be a cleaner wiring solution, but as noted, less torque for only a little less money.
Keep in mind that none of the above reasoning is based on experience with my particular new machine, but I do have some experience with 2D CNC and tapering, so it is not completely blind reasoning, either.
I will be interested to follow what you end up choosing and how it works out for you.
HTH
Gary
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RBC
Deceased
Gary
Just for a little reference about wattage.
My NSK's are 350 watt. I just got them running this weekend, and I was a little worried about the power. Well, I ran a .0625" 4 flute router bit turning 35,000 rpm through ebony at .050" deep and moving 90 inches per minute. Even at that speed, I never got the second light to come up on the load meter. So far, I haven't even begun to put any real load on these spindles.
Now, turning shafts might be a little different.
Anyway, 300 or 350 watts should be more than enough for inlay work.
Royce
The little spindle Royce recommended is the way to go for engraving. Any spindle with ER 11 collet has too much run out to use a .020 or .015 bit. I believe I saw where the repeatability was .01 for the ER11 spindle on these spindles. Not very good.
The one Royce recommended was .0004 and will be a lot more accurate and can be used for inlay work no problem.
The one Royce recommended was .0004 and will be a lot more accurate and can be used for inlay work no problem.
Hey Royce,
If you try turning shafts it will stall the motor not enough power. I run my NSK at 25 to 30K and use .0313 bits and cut .0625 at 20 to 25 inches a minute with 2 fluke bits no problem. When using .020 bits have to go .020 depth of cut or bits start to break. Still cutting at 15 inches a minute in ebony. I do wish I had an automatic tool changer as then I could go take a nap!
Alex
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RBC
Deceased
Alex
What NSK do you have? Do you know what the wattage is?
They make many different ones, and the smaller ones can be as low as 125 watt.
I certainly have no plans on cutting shafts with these spindles, but I'm not so sure they couldn't do it. I use chinese spindles on all the turning centers so we have plenty of power there.
These 2 NSK's are on our inlay part cutting machine. All they do is cut inlay parts. They're mounted in tandem and both cut the same thing at the same time. All of the slabs are cut to the same size, and we hold them down with a vacuum fixture. Most slabs will fill 2 to 3 cues, so cutting two at a time means we cut inlays for 4 to 6 cues all at once. On the simple cues like our OB 130 shown below each slab will make several hundred small razor sharp scalloped diamonds. With 16 per cue, 2 slabs will cover quite a few cues.
http://www.obcues.com/products/OB%2d130-8-of-Diamonds.html
Hover your mouse over the image, and you can get a better look at the sharp tips on the inlays. It's a new inlay method we call "Infinity Inlays". It gives us the super sharp inlay tips without having to "cheat".
Well, back to work for me!
Royce,
I have the E3000 rated at 350W. I have had it for several years and cannot measure any run out on the spindle. Wish I had the auto tool changer as all I have is the quick release. I thought it would cut shafts and it might but you would have to just take little cuts.
I have the E3000 rated at 350W. I have had it for several years and cannot measure any run out on the spindle. Wish I had the auto tool changer as all I have is the quick release. I thought it would cut shafts and it might but you would have to just take little cuts.
RBC
Deceased
Alex
That's a nice cue for sure!
Which spindle motor? Mine is the 3060.
Both of the actual spindles are older ones, and they are slightly different. Both do have the ATC though, which should be very helpful some day. Right now, we are still manually changing the bits, but using a manual valve to open and close the collets.
I'm pretty close to trying full ATC on my pocket machine. It has a Precise spindle with ATC. The fun part is really in how you set it up and the programming. I have tool holders, but setting it up so that it catches itself when something goes wrong is the fun part. I can program the script to know which tool it has and it's location, know which tool is called and it's location etc. The fun part is that I want some tests built in. I want it to confirm that the previous bit is in tact and not broken. I want it to confirm that the first tool did indeed stay in the tool holder when it's dropped off. And, I want it to confirm that it did correctly pick up the new tool. I'm planning on using optical switches and passing the tool through the gate while Mach watches for the "blip" in the signal line. It's all about timing.
If I get it running, I'll shoot a video and post it up. It should be pretty cool.