I don't get how he trim it with a penknife?

x3dnd3x

x3dnd3x

Trainee Chalk Collector
Silver Member
Hi all,

I came across this video few months back and have tried doing the method this cue repairman is using which is using a penknife to trim down a tip flushed to the ferrule. I tried for a month or so but still am unable to do it. Hell I even got the same penknife which is a Xacto penknife and bought some spare blades but still unable to do it.

What I did was, I tape the ferrule up in case I blunder or etc and while the lathe is spinning, I place the penknife onto the ferrule and just slide across slowly. The issue is it either slides pass the tip or it just cuts abit and then slide pass. I remember the uploader is actually a member in AZ as well because of the namecard and if I'm not wrong, his avatar is also his namecard. Hopefully he sees this post and enlighten me what's wrong.

I tried to trim a 14mm tip on a 12.3mm ferrule. Fast forward the video to 3:38.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hpQ8-AjuX4
 
I've been doing it that way for years. Not exactly the same, but the same principles.

Just make sure you get the cutting edge of the blade against the tip and give it a little pressure.
 
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I cringed a little when I saw that vid. I was a machinist for years and ran several lathes. This is not a safe way of doing it but he got the job done and the finished product looks okay. I don't think people should have slammed him so much in the comments but what can you do.

If I were him I would make a adjustable tool holder for his saddle. It would be easy to do and it would make his process safer, simpler and faster.
 
BigDoc said:
I've been doing it that way for years. Not exactly the same, but the same principles.

Just make sure you get the cutting edge of the blade against the tip and give it a little pressure.


Royce
Click to expand...

How do you do so?

Do I have to align the blade at an angle instead of just flat across? :confused:
 
sorry. that was awful. he massacared that ferrule. great technique if you like to taper by a few millimeters each tip change.

also, i dont understand the comment about cutting tools he made. it would be far better to use a simple cutting knife on the lathe and slowly dial it in to remove the "runout"

you may need to replace a steel cutting knife after several thousand tips :rolleyes:
 
jcrack_corn said:
sorry. that was awful. he massacared that ferrule. great technique if you like to taper by a few millimeters each tip change.

also, i dont understand the comment about cutting tools he made. it would be far better to use a simple cutting knife on the lathe and slowly dial it in to remove the "runout"

you may need to replace a steel cutting knife after several thousand tips :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Actually I also don't understand why he said it was cheaper and using a cutting tool is actually way faster than the penknife.

I felt it was damn cool and imba skill with the penknife to do it that way that's why I wanna learn it.
 
jcrack_corn........I am with you about the ferrule.......OMG....betcha it was a full one (1) inch ferrule before he started using this technique.
 
It takes a bit of practice to free hand it Bud.

I got a piece of square stock, (1/8th" x 6" long), and put it in a tool holder to make a steady rest for the blade.

Somewhat like a steady rest or tool rest that you would use if you were working a wood lathe.

It gives you something for the blade to rest on as you move it forward.

I am not much good at free wheeling the blade like Darcy is.
 
x3dnd3x said:
How do you do so?

Do I have to align the blade at an angle instead of just flat across? :confused:
Click to expand...

That's exactly how you have to do it with the double beveled blades. It helps to wet the tip , although I prefer to use a wet sponge rather than spit. And it requires sharpening, but I prefer using this as opposed to any of the disposable blades:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=32502&cat=1,42936,42949&ap=1

When I work on house cues, I use razor blades, and those are good to practice on. The trick for me is to be on the tip, and to pull the blade back until you "drop" off the lip. I also prefer to use a live center pressing on the tip to help minimize chatter.

A good set of videos to watch is Bob Dzuricky's channel. He has some great videos along with a good website to visit. Depending on the kind of lathe you are using, (I am using one of hightower's machines) you may not have the kind of accuracy that comes from creating and tweaking your own collets. That's why most of us use the razor, utility knife, or in my case the marking knife.

Good luck, sir! And I recommend setting up a test shaft (even if it's only 8-10 inches long) and glue some cheap LePros on it and just practice all of them and see what works for you.
 
sorry. that was awful. he massacared that ferrule. great technique if you like to taper by a few millimeters each tip change.

also, i dont understand the comment about cutting tools he made. it would be far better to use a simple cutting knife on the lathe and slowly dial it in to remove the "runout"

you may need to replace a steel cutting knife after several thousand tips
Click to expand...


Nothing was being massacred. Darcy mentioned putting a small taper on the tip, not the ferrule. Many installers do this.

That way, after a few hrs of play, if the tip should mushroom a bit, it will take its natural shape and the player won't have to deal with it.

The taper is so slight that you wouldn't notice it.

The difference between a 14mm tip and 13mm ferrule is so minute that you wouldn't use a steel or carbon cutting tool to cut the tip.

You would cut from the tip down to the ferrule and not out, from the ferrule to the tip.

You could only take so much off and would be so close to the ferrule, that you would use a blade to take the remainder off.

Nothing wrong with his install, Darcy has literally done thousands.

He didn't make any cutting tools. The tip shaper was purchased from Unique Billiard Supply.

Shakes, I wet the tip as well before I cut. I do wet it several times during the shaping process.
I have also looked at those Leather marking knives at Lee valley. Now I know that they would work well.
Using the flat side, you wouldn't have to adjust the angle of your double sided blade.

If you were use a steel cutting tool in the process, you would be very lucky to get several thousand cuts from one tool.
That is a serious exaggeration.

I use fairly expensive carbon tipped blades, ($30 for 50), and I might get lucky to get 4 or 5, certainly no more than 6 tip cuts from one blade.
I might get 3 tips from one side, mark the blade and flip it over and use the other side for 3 tips.


Again! Absolutely NO FERRULES were harmed in making this video.
 
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When he first starts trimming you can see white ferrule material being removed before he gets to the tip.:eek:
 
I use this method all the time. It doesn't chew into the ferrule - and some of my cues have ivory so I'm very careful. Just be sure the blade is sharp and pay attention to the angle you are approaching the tip. With tips that are a couple mm bigger than the ferrule, I like to use a cutting tool to get it closer to centered so there isn't all that chatter.

Also, as mentioned, wet the tip and it cuts so much easier. With layered tips, use a new blade each time. It just take practice.

-td
 
Definitely more of a how NOT to do it video.

And my favorite last words are I've been doing it that way for X years and haven't lost a finger yet. So it's obviously safe.

:)
 
I always use blade for cleaning the glue out of the ferrule before glue it again with new tip. That's easy without cue lathe. So as I replace a new tip, I'll upload the video here.

Huy Dang
 
Wow
1. I assure you that the ferrule was not touched at all during this tip install
2. When replacing tips, I do not indicate and shim ferrules and you can absolutely face a ferrule with a razor blade
3. Terry is right, I have done thousands upon thousands of tip replacements and guess what? All my fingers are intact
4. I do not tell people to watch a video and go home to try it themselves, I had some people ask me how I do things and post some videos for them.
5. The white stuff coming off the ferrule is in fact glue that didn't wipe off, as I stated in the video.
This is almost the same technique I still use today, with a couple changes. I think there are actually newer videos showing how I do tips now.
Using a razor isn't very hard to do freehand, but it is absolutely a learned skill, and damage to ferrules can happen, just like any other operation done on a machine.

I'm always open to questions or criticism, but I don't think I'm a hack at all.....
 
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