Question for the Pro"s

Enigmaticul

Enigmaticul

Banned
I am attempting to build a nice cue with a 3/8x10 pin. I usually build all my cues with a radial pin because I feel that the threads cut nicer and don't strip as easy. In the past I have attempted building cues with 3/8x10 and after tapping the threads ripped.

Just to let you know I do center drill then drill 5/16 to depth then hard wax the tap and slow in and out till I reach desired depth.


My question is do you guys ever used super glue or wood Hardener before tapping in the 5/16 hole to "reinforce" the threads you are about to cut?

The idea is that I am thinking is that the hardener / super glue will seep into the wood make it super strong then you tap this having very strong long lasting threads.

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
Well, I step drill too, but use a carbide reamer after drilling, then have another reamer sized for My final bore that I use like a drill/boring bar. What I do after that is fill the hole with a good amount of thin, then ream/wipe It out with a spiraled rolled up paper towel.( gotta be quick so that It doesn't stick, and run it up in there far enough to make it flatten at the bottom, so that I'm sure I didn't leave any puddles, Helps to twist the paper towel and run It through the bore while It's still dry and before I put CA in, that way I know got the correct shape, and I don't waste any time that could potentially cause the paper towel to get glued to the inside of the hole.) After It dries well, I run My reamer through again, then tap.


I can't say that My method would work for everyone, and really only the high points of the threads are getting treated, but I get a clean cut on the threads, and have yet to have a 3/8-10 strip out. I'm sure eventually one will get cross threaded, but I have been using that pin for several years with no issues thus far.
 
That is a good idea. Some times I turn the lathe on and put the thin in hoping that the centrifugal force will drive the thin deeper in the wood.
 
Everyone has different methods of how they use It. I have heard some say they take the shaft out of the lathe, shake It up inside, and pour It out of the hole.

Once I get everything dialed in dead nuts, I'm too lazy, and don't want to do It again, so I just spin the headstock by hand to evenly spread. Kind of hard to tell I even used Ca when I'm done. I'm really only using It to harden the surface so that My tap starts out cutting clean as opposed to partially crushing the wood.
 
Question, when tapping, are you using a tapping handle that is in the tailstock like the type Joe sells or just putting the tap in the drill chuck and leaving the tailstock loose on the bed?
I now use a phenolic insert, but if doing wood threads, I use thin CA after tapping. I take the shaft out of the lathe and fill the hole to the top and let it set for a minute. Then quickly dump it out side and wipe the joint face right away. After a couple minutes, I then use my air hose to blow out any residual CA. About an hour later I just run a tap back thru and then blow out the dust.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Question, when tapping, are you using a tapping handle that is in the tailstock like the type Joe sells or just putting the tap in the drill chuck and leaving the tailstock loose on the bed?
I now use a phenolic insert, but if doing wood threads, I use thin CA after tapping. I take the shaft out of the lathe and fill the hole to the top and let it set for a minute. Then quickly dump it out side and wipe the joint face right away. After a couple minutes, I then use my air hose to blow out any residual CA. About an hour later I just run a tap back thru and then blow out the dust.
Dave
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Dave, I just tap them with a Hightower, and use the standard drilling tail stock that came with It, so I can keep the tailstock locked to the bed, and , let the quill of the tailstock move freely following the tap as It runs into the bore. That's harder to do with a conventional tailstock I suppose, because even with the tailstock unlocked to the bed, the weight alone might could cause Issues.

I do use a tapping handle when tapping threads on My metal lathe or milling machine though. I usually have some sort of mandrel or centering tool setup to backup the tapping handle to help keep It centered, and I adjust the quills as needed depending on what I use at the back.

I have tried to use the ca after the fact as You mentioned, but found that My reamer and tap are such a close fit to My pins that It made the fit too tight, and I would end up having to chase the threads again anyhow. If I were to start having issues with stripped threads then I may would change My fits to account for the Ca so i could go the after route, but like I mentioned have had no stripping issues at all, so have not seen the need to fix anything like that yet. just been sticking to what is working for me for now.
 
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Put in a 1/2 inch dia phenolic plug and drill and tap that............ they never strip out......

Kim
 
Sounds like a dull tap. Maybe use a chainsaw file to sharpen the tap or try a different tap. Any 3/8-10 tap I have ever had will cut fine in a 5/16 hole, until it's dull. Then it shreds the threads. I use chainsaw files to keep taps sharp. Get a good file, not the cheap ones. I use Stihl or Nichols. Hope this helps somebody.
 
Bore the hole .002" undersized.
Live thread it in two passes.
That'll be tight. Wax the pin.
Shamfer the hole with a 60* center.

I make these inserts for myself.
 

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I grind a small flat on the side of the 3/8 x 10 screw ( about 3/8" long). You may have to clean the threads, where you grind. The flat will act as a key way & keep the screw from coming out...JER
 
JoeyInCali said:
Bore the hole .002" undersized.
Live thread it in two passes.
That'll be tight. Wax the pin.
Shamfer the hole with a 60* center.

I make these inserts for myself.
Click to expand...

Joey

How many of those do you use?

I could setup and run a batch of 100 of them for you. Pretty quick and pretty cheap too.


Royce
 
Wow, it looks like there might be a little market for some of these.

Do you guys want brown or black?

I usually have some of the black rod around, but don't normally keep the brown. I'd be happy to though, just to use for these inserts.

I'll get a price for the material and come back with a price. It will be a lot better for me if I can make a bigger number in one session rather than several small ones. It's fine to swap material colors in the middle though because it will still be the same programming.

What quantities would be preferred? 10, 25, 50, 100, etc. I would ship via a USPS flat rate box, so how ever many will fit in the small one will be 5 or 6 bucks for shipping.

I don't really expect make any money from this, but I do have to pay for machine and people time.

I'll get back with a price.


Thanks


Royce
 
LGSM3 said:
that ought to teach u to open your mouth!
Click to expand...

yea, no s**t!

Like I need another thing to do, right!


Actually, this one is pretty easy. I've already done a couple of different versions. I can also give this to the guys to do.

Royce
 
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