Tired of Masking
- Thread starter deadbeat
- Start date
RBC
Deceased
Yes, I've used something very similar to that in the past.
For shafts, which are spinning on a pointed center, we angle to gun slightly so that we don't spray on the face of the joint.
For the buts, our booth spinner for the pin side is small diameter piece of delrin with a whole in it for the pin. The delrin reaches all the way to the face, and we spray it just like the shafts, with the gun angled slightly so that we don't spray the face.
Royce
For shafts, which are spinning on a pointed center, we angle to gun slightly so that we don't spray on the face of the joint.
For the buts, our booth spinner for the pin side is small diameter piece of delrin with a whole in it for the pin. The delrin reaches all the way to the face, and we spray it just like the shafts, with the gun angled slightly so that we don't spray the face.
Royce
That's a good point, I'll have to try that next year.
When you prep your joints don't leave a sharp edge, slightly sand so the finish has more to bit.
nah, the clear wont stick enough to the delrin to do that
If I was not holding an exact joint size which I suspect you may not be, I would just screw the butt and shaft together and spray them together. Tap the cue until you see a white line appear where the joint breaks apart and quickly snap it apart. Once wet sanded the joint is perfect feeling to each other. That is how I finished cues for a few years until I started using sanding mandrels. At first I used stainless mandrels, but they wore a little and were only good for a dozen or so cues before they just started getting used for lathe pins and inserts. But once I got them made with carbide collars I have never looked back and that was about 20 years ago. If you are building cues and not just refinishing cues I strongly suggest you invest in carbide sanding mandrels.
But for the time being if you really want to use Delrin I would thread the delrin and run it on to the butt. Turn it to a perfect fit for the butt. Then screw the shaft on. This will elminate the build up and round lip.
But for the time being if you really want to use Delrin I would thread the delrin and run it on to the butt. Turn it to a perfect fit for the butt. Then screw the shaft on. This will elminate the build up and round lip.
Might want to shoot a bit less finish per go around. Notice the inner tube at the face of the purpleheart cue where the finish has sagged. Mupltiple thin coats will work much better than thick coats. Plus you will trap less solvent which can cause shrinkage problems down the road.
Yeah, this was a special situation. Had to have the cues completely finished by tomorrow morning. Nephew and niece needed Christmas presents and asked for them at last minute. I put 4 heavy coats of finish on them hanging, not turning on a lathe.
Chris, I have some mandrels I use, I like my joints at .850, but you are right, I need some carbide mandrels. I can see how you can snap apart the sticks with a wrap, but what if you wanted to do that with a wrapless cue? I actually have a mandrel that is carbide but only for shaft that is .845, I may keep it for a maintenance pin, but the one I used to use is stainless. It is also a maintenance pin now.
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I taped a shaft for finish about once. Then I questioned the necessity. There is none.
Using tape creates a dam that would need to be sanded down to blend.
I shoot auto-clear and I don't do it all in one coat; avg. 3-4.
Point is, I stop just short of where the previous coat ended creating blended layers.
There is no dam and there's much less sanding.
I do this for a living, I don't want to work any harder than I have to.
KJ
Using tape creates a dam that would need to be sanded down to blend.
I shoot auto-clear and I don't do it all in one coat; avg. 3-4.
Point is, I stop just short of where the previous coat ended creating blended layers.
There is no dam and there's much less sanding.
I do this for a living, I don't want to work any harder than I have to.
KJ
It makes no difference if the cue has a wrap or not, because you wait until the cue is totally dry before snapping it apart.
I see, I watched you do that in your finish video but could remember. Thanks.
Never used them or seen them used. Everyone says they are great, Is there any videos or pictures. I did a search, but didn't find anything except folks saying how good they are.
Steve
Steve
They look just like maintenance arbors, except with carbide sleeves ground to your specs where they meet the collars.
Expect around 300.00 each set.