Automotive clear coat

billl67

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is there any one who could tell me of a good auto clear? I remember reading a post of someone who makes or distributes . I believe he is out of Colorado , any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I don't know if you're putting the cart before the horse here but any auto-clear has the potential
to cause you some very serious health concerns. What thoughts have you given to protection?
BTW, the damage caused to your central nervous system (including brain) is non-reversible.
The brand-name of the poison won't matter.

KJ
 
I don't know if you're putting the cart before the horse here but any auto-clear has the potential
to cause you some very serious health concerns. What thoughts have you given to protection?
BTW, the damage caused to your central nervous system (including brain) is non-reversible.
The brand-name of the poison won't matter.

KJ

I used dupont Chroma-Clear before I learned about the water based Enduro polly clear.
Non-poisonous and a harder scratch resistant finish that auto clear coat.

When spraying auto clear coat if you smell it ... its killing you ... slowly!

Willee
 
I used dupont Chroma-Clear before I learned about the water based Enduro polly clear.
Non-poisonous and a harder scratch resistant finish that auto clear coat.

When spraying auto clear coat if you smell it ... its killing you ... slowly!

Willee

I had no luck with those Enduro.
They turned milky on me and nowhere near the hardness of Pro Form auto clear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fr...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5882ef55fd
I bought that years ago on the recommendation of Dick Neighbors .
You can't smell nothing when spraying AND mixing the finish .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAASCHE-HSS...hash=item20f8eda532&item=141615277362&vxp=mtr
That's the smallest booth one must have when spraying .
Bigger is better . Or you can add more explosion proof fans.

Store your drying pieces inside a 50-gallon drum or old ref outside of the shop.

Wet sand 4 days later or more unless you have heater lamps.

Water clear finishes are STILL poisonous . But, nowhere near as bad as auto clears.
 
I had no luck with those Enduro.
They turned milky on me and nowhere near the hardness of Pro Form auto clear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fr...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5882ef55fd
I bought that years ago on the recommendation of Dick Neighbors .
You can't smell nothing when spraying AND mixing the finish .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAASCHE-HSS...hash=item20f8eda532&item=141615277362&vxp=mtr
That's the smallest booth one must have when spraying .
Bigger is better . Or you can add more explosion proof fans.

Store your drying pieces inside a 50-gallon drum or old ref outside of the shop.

Wet sand 4 days later or more unless you have heater lamps.

Water clear finishes are STILL poisonous . But, nowhere near as bad as auto clears.

Another vote for Breath Cool respirator.
 
Joey,

Your efforts into researching this topic are appreciated.
I know the laws are strict in Cali but they need to be, this is dangerous stuff.
This thread has the potential to be an informative discussion....if we want it to be.

KJ
 
I had no luck with those Enduro.
They turned milky on me and nowhere near the hardness of Pro Form auto clear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fr...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5882ef55fd
I bought that years ago on the recommendation of Dick Neighbors .
You can't smell nothing when spraying AND mixing the finish .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAASCHE-HSS...hash=item20f8eda532&item=141615277362&vxp=mtr
That's the smallest booth one must have when spraying .
Bigger is better . Or you can add more explosion proof fans.

Store your drying pieces inside a 50-gallon drum or old ref outside of the shop.

Wet sand 4 days later or more unless you have heater lamps.

Water clear finishes are STILL poisonous . But, nowhere near as bad as auto clears.

That is the air delivery system that I use. Works very well by the way. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fr...faultDomain_0&hash=item5882ef55fd=&rmvSB=true

I actually bought the full headed one with the hood that comes down over your shoulders but it fogged up so badly that I couldn't see what I was spraying so I took a filtered mask, very similar to the one shown and adapted that one so that it looks just like the one in the link. Although I haven't tried one, other than the full hood, the one with the eye shield would be the best, by far, as long as it doesn't fog up.

That is one of, if not the best, tool I have in the shop.

Dick
 
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Joey,

<snip>
This thread has the potential to be an informative discussion....if we want it to be.

KJ

TRUE ... When thinking of cue making the finishing part is often overlooked.
Everyone thinks about turning and shaping the wood but not much about finishing it.
It is every bit as important as the wood turning and a real craft into itself.
There are so many skill sets that go into the making of a quality pool cue.

I built a wooden 4 cue spray cabinet inside a metal storage shed and used an old furnace fan to move the air away and out.
Worked great but now I need to build another ... Improved version 2.

Willee
 

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TRUE ... When thinking of cue making the finishing part is often overlooked.
Everyone thinks about turning and shaping the wood but not much about finishing it.
It is every bit as important as the wood turning and a real craft into itself.
There are so many skill sets that go into the making of a quality pool cue.

I built a wooden 4 cue spray cabinet inside a metal storage shed and used an old furnace fan to move the air away and out.
Worked great but now I need to build another ... Improved version 2.

Willee

That's way too clean and organized...I mean seriously.....
 
auto clear

i would like to thank everyone for all of their help. willee that is really a great setup
 
I would strongly suggest reconsidering the use of auto clear. I quit using it in 06' and wish I had never used it in the first place. There are several other finishes that look good without the health risk. UV, epoxy, and CA are three plausible alternatives. Each has its own learning curve and technique, but all offer a finish that can look every bit as good and be at minimum every bit as durable. While they all have their hazards, none are as scary as auto clear. Epoxy is likely the safest. Point being, a good cue finish isn't limited only to auto clear.
 
Keith and Joe Gold use it and have mastered it... I think a small investment for what it offers

I don't know about Keith but to get Joey's finish standard you need a high frequency Microwave UV system set up and that will cost over $ 15,000.00 dollars. Joe's standards, tolerances and attention to finite details is why he is Master Yoda. LOL

You have to sell a lot of cues for big dollars to justify that investment.

I had the 300 watt UV system and it does not compare to Joey's equipment set up and final product. Not even close.

I went back to Automotive Clear. It takes longer in days to finish a cue but if done correctly with a stabilized substrate, produces a fantastic final product. The high end UV system is a time machine.

Spraying Auto Clear is very safe if you use a both with high flow in CFM and a 12" suction from a spark free blower with a motor mount external to the duct. I wear a mask but frankly with my high volume system there is no fumes in my paint room while spraying as all atomized spray and fumes are drafted into the spray both stat. I however would rather be safe than sorry. Under the correct conditions Automotive Clear is very safe. There is thousands of body shops using it every day and if it were making people sick it would be off the market. People who use it without the proper professional equipment do so at risk. OSHA and MSA approved stuff is the way to go.

JMO,

Rick
 
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Rick, where did you get your info that Joes or Keiths UV is even close to $15,000? Did Joe tell you this?


I don't know about Keith but to get Joey's finish standard you need a high frequency Microwave UV system set up and that will cost over $ 15,000.00 dollars. Joe's standards, tolerances and attention to finite details is why he is Master Yoda. LOL

You have to sell a lot of cues for big dollars to justify that investment.

I had the 300 watt UV system and it does not compare to Joey's equipment set up and final product. Not even close.

I went back to Automotive Clear. It takes longer in days to finish a cue but if done correctly with a stabilized substrate, produces a fantastic final product. The high end UV system is a time machine.

Spraying Auto Clear is very safe if you use a both with high flow in CFM and a 12" suction from a spark free blower with a motor mount external to the duct. I wear a mask but frankly with my high volume system there is no fumes in my paint room while spraying as all atomized spray and fumes are drafted into the spray both stat. I however would rather be safe than sorry. Under the correct conditions Automotive Clear is very safe. There is thousands of body shops using it every day and if it were making people sick it would be off the market. People who use it without the proper professional equipment do so at risk. OSHA and MSA approved stuff is the way to go.

JMO,

Rick
 
I can't remember the details, but my uv system was under 5k and works flawlessly.
 
Rick, where did you get your info that Joes or Keiths UV is even close to $15,000? Did Joe tell you this?

The fish got bigger story ?
:D
The technology should really be down to $2K already.
It's just a freaking lamp. :grin:
 
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