Joey,
There is more to it than one point of view on this subject. We are all entitled to our own points of view.
Lower frequency transmits to the hand and arm also and some people don't like noisy cues and some people use the sound as part of their measured stroke.
Thats what make choices for people and what makes the world go round.
If you took 1000 people and put them in time square with pool cue knowledge and went on a megaphone and asked, "who makes the best playing cue you will get 20 or 30 different answers, no doubt.
If you get the 3 C billiards crowd there and asked the same question, over 50% would say Ray Schuler. The rest would say Longoni and one or two others.
So pool people are all over the place because they have a lot choices.
Nothing is the correct way because Rick or Joey thinks that is the do all to end all. The market knows all in the end. There is room for a all sorts of in between.
JMO,
Rick
Rick, you made a statement.... ..."If you wish to have a subdued or quieter hit, GG is the way to go. There is a difference that can be felt and heard when you hit a cue ball for sure especially when using a solid cored cue on a single maple dowel end to end. Night and day."
I don't agree with this blanket statement, as I use a solid one piece core, whether it be maple, purpleheart, etc.. and use a poly glue , and the hit is not quiet or subdued. The tighter the tolerances, the less the type of glue really matters, IMO. I prefer a solid feedback in the handle when I hit the cueball and Poly glues can provide that if all is done correctly. Joey basically asked why you thought this way and you just went soft and did a "blah, blah, blah.... we all have different opinions",.... but you didn't explain why you believe what you stated. Most people really would like to know the thoughts on why the type of glue has an effect on how the cue feels and sound? Did you do any tests, or is this just opinion with no real basis?
I personally have used west systems epoxy,(too expensive) and 2 other slow set epoxies, and 3 different poly type glues and have not felt a difference in the hit or sound once glued and dried. I do not use epoxy because, IMO, it doesn't fill any gaps, nor compensates for absorption like a poly glue does. When boring a burl type wood, there can be internal gaps due to defects and when using epoxy, no matter how much you pour in, can still not fill these gaps, IMO. It also can be squeezed out as you push the core thru,....then as it gets absorbed, it leaves dry spots. My testing showed dry joints using different types of epoxies, especially with burls and other soft woods. I have used 3 types of poly glues, mainly due to most don't last long in the bottle once opened. Elmer's seems to last the longest without solidifying like GG does in half the time and provides a very strong bond. When cut in half, there were no dry areas or gaps and the cores couldn't be pried or hammered out of the cored wood. I have a .008" gap between the core and the bored hole. I do the filed rings and horizontal channels on the core and don't sand it after cutting those in.
Dave.
