Ultimate Aiming - Finding the Line

HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Until someone shows me (in person, at the table) something better than CP2CP, I do not believe there is an easier or more effective way technique to find the shot line.

I'm not saying you are going to make the ball or get position or anything else...that is up to YOU.

However, for finding the shot line that is almost foolproof (with no adjustments) CP2CP is the most objective system I've seen and actually used. In order for the object ball to go where you intend it to go, you must hit its contact point with the contact point on the cue ball. How much simpler can you get it. That is the way it works for EVERY system.

How you figure out how to hit the contact point on the object ball with the contact point on the cue ball may be done in a variety of ways (or so there are claims) in order to make the object ball go in the direction you want using the cue ball.

Aim at the contact point on the object ball with the contact point on the cue ball. That is the BASICS. After that, how much you want to move your cue over to attempt to hit center ball or apply spin requires trial and error until you get it down.

You can argue about anything you want, but CP2CP is a STRAIGHT LINE between two balls. Of course there is deflection, swerve, etc. to deal with like every other system, but if you CAN'T determine a simple straight line, you are never going to be able to adapt to any other system that requires you to stand here, look there, aim here, pivot there, etc.,etc., etc.
 
Until someone shows me (in person, at the table) something better than CP2CP, I do not believe there is an easier or more effective way technique to find the shot line.
Visualizing the OB contact point is pretty easy (for me, at least, after lots of practice) - it's estimating what part of the CB to aim at it that makes people want to kick puppies.

I do that by paying attention to where my CB's center and my stick are aimed in relation to the OB contact point, and letting my subconscious use that info to learn as specifically as possible.

I agree that the OB contact point (and/or a ghostball visualization) is the most straightforward "reference" for your subconscious to use - I also believe it's the closest "reference" to the final aim line (closer than the nearest "fraction", for instance), even though we must estimate its location.

pj
chgo
 
So, what wrong with ghost ball contact patch?

Take a ball and place it in the spot.

Freeze a ball to it such that it is dead into a corner pocket.

Remove the ball on the spot.

Stroke the CB such that the bottom of the CB rolls over the spot.

The spot on the table is on the same line as the contact point.

If you make Babe Cranfields arrow, you can do this from anywhere on the table.

Does contact point have a training aid, like the Arrow, to use in real time on the table for training?

duckie,

I know how to use ghost ball aiming and I have a laminated Babe Cransfield "arrow" in my wallet that I use to show people how to aim.

The only problem with ghost ball aiming is that you are aiming at something "invisible"...the GHOST.

When I aim using CP2CP, I'm aiming at something VISIBLE...the contact point on the object ball. I'm not aiming out into space at a ghost.

I appreciate the fact that you are able to use that system and it works for you and lots of other people. However, I, personally, don't think it is the best method for me and I've played pool for 50 years and experimented a lot with various things I've been shown or read.

If somebody could actually come up to the table and show me a method where "I" could do BETTER, I would fully embrace it and support it. I have yet had anyone do that.
 
Visualizing the OB contact point is pretty easy (for me, at least, after lots of practice) - it's estimating what part of the CB to aim at it that makes people want to kick puppies.

I do that by paying attention to where my CB's center and my stick are aimed in relation to the OB contact point, and letting my subconscious use that info to learn as specifically as possible.

I agree that the OB contact point (and/or a ghostball visualization) is the most straightforward "reference" for your subconscious to use - I also believe it's the closest "reference" to the final aim line (closer than the nearest "fraction", for instance), even though we must estimate its location.

pj
chgo

I agree. I can't reliably find the cueball contact point using this method.
 
So, what wrong with ghost ball contact patch?

Take a ball and place it in the spot.

Freeze a ball to it such that it is dead into a corner pocket.

Remove the ball on the spot.

Stroke the CB such that the bottom of the CB rolls over the spot.

The spot on the table is on the same line as the contact point.

If you make Babe Cranfields arrow, you can do this from anywhere on the table.

Does contact point have a training aid, like the Arrow, to use in real time on the table for training?

My problem with the arrow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMNs82JOumU
 
Some of the best advice I ever got on aiming was to flick the eyes between all the things that matter.

The pocket, object ball and the cue ball.

I was told that if you look at these 3 things long enough the line of aim will eventually jump right out at you. Turns out this was very true.

I gather the information I need. .. Pocket position, object ball position and cue ball position and just look at the 2 balls... And what do you know, the line of aim becomes clear.
 
Some of the best advice I ever got on aiming was to flick the eyes between all the things that matter.

The pocket, object ball and the cue ball.

I was told that if you look at these 3 things long enough the line of aim will eventually jump right out at you. Turns out this was very true.

I gather the information I need. .. Pocket position, object ball position and cue ball position and just look at the 2 balls... And what do you know, the line of aim becomes clear.


Well there you go confusing the issue with facts
 
Some of the best advice I ever got on aiming was to flick the eyes between all the things that matter.

The pocket, object ball and the cue ball.

I was told that if you look at these 3 things long enough the line of aim will eventually jump right out at you. Turns out this was very true.

I gather the information I need. .. Pocket position, object ball position and cue ball position and just look at the 2 balls... And what do you know, the line of aim becomes clear.

For a lot of shots this might be true but I don't think it's true of all shots and not for all types of people.

I find, for myself, on middle table reverse cut shots the line of aim doesn't seem clear by just looking for it for example.
 
For a lot of shots this might be true but I don't think it's true of all shots and not for all types of people.

I find, for myself, on middle table reverse cut shots the line of aim doesn't seem clear by just looking for it for example.
Don't look for it young Skywalker, look at what will allow it to jump out and hit you in the face. The pocket, and the two balls will allow you to gather enough information to rely on past experience and similar shots that you've successfully pocketed and before you know it you have a lightbulb moment and it all starts making sense.

I had real issues with low blacks off their spot as a kid. Once I stopped trying to find my line of aim and just looking at the balls relationship to the pocket... Or angle as some call it then the line of sin became clear.
 
Until someone shows me (in person, at the table) something better than CP2CP, I do not believe there is an easier or more effective way technique to find the shot line.

I'm not saying you are going to make the ball or get position or anything else...that is up to YOU.

However, for finding the shot line that is almost foolproof (with no adjustments) CP2CP is the most objective system I've seen and actually used. In order for the object ball to go where you intend it to go, you must hit its contact point with the contact point on the cue ball. How much simpler can you get it. That is the way it works for EVERY system.

How you figure out how to hit the contact point on the object ball with the contact point on the cue ball may be done in a variety of ways (or so there are claims) in order to make the object ball go in the direction you want using the cue ball.

Aim at the contact point on the object ball with the contact point on the cue ball. That is the BASICS. After that, how much you want to move your cue over to attempt to hit center ball or apply spin requires trial and error until you get it down.

You can argue about anything you want, but CP2CP is a STRAIGHT LINE between two balls. Of course there is deflection, swerve, etc. to deal with like every other system, but if you CAN'T determine a simple straight line, you are never going to be able to adapt to any other system that requires you to stand here, look there, aim here, pivot there, etc.,etc., etc.

When statements like the above are made, I think of shots below, rail first then the 8 ball, what I call a indirect path shot. Can the above statement be applied to the shot below?

If so, explain how.

The below rail first shot is a pure feel shot.
 
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Moral of the story is, try not to get hooked behind another ball duckie. I shoot shots like that in the image maybe once every 300 shots or so in rotation little more often in 8b. They have systems that are rather accurate...more accurate than some pocket aiming systems out there that deal with shots like this. No feel needed really unless you are on a foreign table.
 
When statements like the above are made, I think of shots below, rail first then the 8 ball, what I call a indirect path shot. Can the above statement be applied to the shot below?

If so, explain how.

The below rail first shot is a pure feel shot.

Actually, that's a textbook example of a mirror system shot. You use your fingers to measure the distance from the contact point to the rail nose, then the distance from the rail nose to the aimpoint on the rail. There are feel and spin adjustments (mosly for when you need significant cueball movement), but this system is deadly effective and it actually uses the contact point.
 
Very little feel about it, mirror system for a simple one railer. I say simple because the OB ball is close to a rail and close to a pocket.

Actually saw SVB in a match measure out a similar shot in 9 ball. He didn't rely totally rely on feel either because he needed to get paid.







When statements like the above are made, I think of shots below, rail first then the 8 ball, what I call a indirect path shot. Can the above statement be applied to the shot below?

If so, explain how.

The below rail first shot is a pure feel shot.
 
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...measure the distance from the contact point to the rail nose, then the distance from the rail nose to the aimpoint on the rail.
Actually, the aimpoint on the rail isn't the mirror image itself, but a point some estimated distance past that (because balls rebound less than 100%).

pj
chgo
 
Actually, the aimpoint on the rail isn't the mirror image itself, but a point some estimated distance past that (because balls rebound less than 100%).

pj
chgo

Well, yes it was a poor choice of words on my part. The point on the rail is the "reference point". You do not aim the center of the cueball at this point. In general I aim the cueball's center outside of this point (meaning the direction away from the object ball)
 
How do you know the cue ball will be sliding or spinning when it gets to the ob?
This game requires you to have a feel for your shots.
 
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Well, yes it was a poor choice of words on my part. The point on the rail is the "reference point". You do not aim the center of the cueball at this point. In general I aim the cueball's center outside of this point (meaning the direction away from the object ball)
I was careless with my description too - it depends on the angle into the rail. As the angle gets steeper the amount to aim past the reflection gets less, until around 30-40 degrees you aim right at the reflection, and steeper than that you aim inside the reflection. At the shallowest angles I add about 50% to the reflection's distance from the gutter.

pj <- all with no side spin
chgo
 
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