Short Ferrules?
- Thread starter Willieboy
- Start date
Potentially lower end mass and less deflection. Also, you can always put a longer ferrule on without changing the shaft length and diameter. If it already has a longer ferrule you're out of luck on that. Overall more and more cuemakers are going to ferrules between 1/4" to 3/4" instead of 1" or more.
I've heard/read where long ferrule/tenons can actually flex enough to impart unwanted spin. On Joss's site Dan refers to it as "hinge over". If you look at 3-cushion and Pyramid cues you'll see really short ferrules and these games require big-time power due to the big balls they use. Less mass and hinge-over leads to better accuracy.
3 cushion and carom guys were once again way ahead of the slow pool players on equipment.
- better feedback due to less plastic in the way
- less (end) mass so less deflection (or squirt): ferrule materials are up to factor 2 heavier that maple wood (!)
- less white plastic that can get blue
- less plastic = less costs
Also, short ferrules just look sooo much better :thumbup:
I love 1/4" ones.
- better feedback due to less plastic in the way
- less (end) mass so less deflection (or squirt): ferrule materials are up to factor 2 heavier that maple wood (!)
- less white plastic that can get blue
- less plastic = less costs
Also, short ferrules just look sooo much better :thumbup:
I love 1/4" ones.
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Agree with MG.
Will receive my Pro X Tiger shaft today, and the Ultra LD is still on its way from Joerackem
Love the look of it. Will see how I like the hit
E: tried the Pro X yesterday. Love the feel of it. Feel of hit hit is very natural and "instant". Its hard to describe but it feels so nice and crisp without any bad vibrations its unbeliviable. Dont know if the ferrule construction is behind the hit but atleast it looks good. Thumb up for short ferrules from me
Will receive my Pro X Tiger shaft today, and the Ultra LD is still on its way from Joerackem
Love the look of it. Will see how I like the hit
E: tried the Pro X yesterday. Love the feel of it. Feel of hit hit is very natural and "instant". Its hard to describe but it feels so nice and crisp without any bad vibrations its unbeliviable. Dont know if the ferrule construction is behind the hit but atleast it looks good. Thumb up for short ferrules from me
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There isn't much glue on 1/4 long ferrules.
It scares me.
It scares me.
There's less glue on a tip and its not threaded, does that terrify you?
The leather would tear before a good super glue gives . Should I worry about the SW style bumper too?
Not quite with ferrules. Plenty of them move and develop gaps at the bottom.
Just look at the for sale section.
Have fun with stemmed 1/4 ferrules.
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Well, that may be your version of the truth but I have another.
It ain't about the money.
As to ferrule mtrl., plastic wghs more than wood, ie, less plastic = less deflection.
The use of less plastic in today's handles is the contemporary trend or "in vogue",
not because of it's cost but because 'big' plastic is old-school.
If cost of mtrls were a major concern then why on earth are we building cues using :
BRW - $500/bd.ft
Hondo Rose Burl - $650/bd.ft
Brazilian Kingwood - $450-500/bd.ft
Nicely figured Coco - $150-200/bd.ft
Most of the exotics - $100-150/bd.ft
Even premium BEM - $150-200/bd.ft
Most of the decent phenolics - $3/inch.
I prefer to showcase the wood, not the plastic that's currently available.
Phenolics can be a beneficial ingredient in the cue if used sparingly and only where needed.
Using additional plastic (where it's not needed) serves no purpose.
In fact, it can be detrimental to the hit. Plastic doesn't resonate like wood; it's 'dead'.
Just one builder's opinion.
I just recently converted a custom shaft from a well known builder, from a shooter to a break shaft. It had a 13.7mm dia. tip with a very short ferrule, About .350"
The customer wanted a phenolic ferrule and a white diamond on it. When I started to remove the "very short" ferrule, I found it wasn't so short, as it had a 1" solid stem going into the shaft, a puff of cotton ball, and only the .350 was showing. Then the rest of the front of the shaft was bored out about 6" further. My point, just because it looks short on the outside doesn't mean it really is. I'm not an expert, but if you want low deflection, why have a shorty with a 1" stem at about 5/16" dia. At that point, just use a regular ferrule, IMO.
Dave
The customer wanted a phenolic ferrule and a white diamond on it. When I started to remove the "very short" ferrule, I found it wasn't so short, as it had a 1" solid stem going into the shaft, a puff of cotton ball, and only the .350 was showing. Then the rest of the front of the shaft was bored out about 6" further. My point, just because it looks short on the outside doesn't mean it really is. I'm not an expert, but if you want low deflection, why have a shorty with a 1" stem at about 5/16" dia. At that point, just use a regular ferrule, IMO.
Dave
JC
Coos Cues
I know right, once you spend all that on wood there's no $ left. Some of the tightest asses in the world can be found two sub forums up from here on a daily basis.
Hey I'm kidding around here:smile:
JC
It makes sense for jumper tips ( T shape ).
For players, meh.
You want low deflection, you get thin wall .
1/4" is really short but 1/2" is adequate. I've never had any issues with any ferrule on any of my carom cues in the last 40 years. A few pool ferrules (Muecci) Lucite thin walls have cracked.
If this can be related to threaded joints. You don't get much more thread strength with thread length longer than 2X diameter. Once the slight damage is done it just a matter of a short time, the joint is completely compromised.