Always have said that, and likely always will. Have you seen me say something contrary?
southwest cue construction
- Thread starter giant killer
- Start date
Always have said that, and likely always will. Have you seen me say something contrary?
I think we are on the same page except I feel it does have an affect on how it feels.
<~~~I'm never sure if I am conveying my thoughts correctly...
Yes.
This question.
We're talking about a metal mass that's usually over an ounce and does not flex like wood . AND it is used to apply axial force to make to pieces mate.
IT HAS to affect the hit . Not saying in bad or good way. But, it has to .
And it's not just b/c of it's weight.
Exactly how does G10 vibrate? Wouldn't it be considered vibration dampening? If the logic is to utilize a material that has minimal vibration dampening, then why would G10 be a good choice?
Please bare with me. I'm not being a smartass or argumentative. Serious curiosity here. 2+2 doesn't seem to be equaling 4
With this argument, wouldn't an all metal cue be the best choice? It would transfer the vibration better than wood...
My point is, and always will be, that we as builders, are trying to achieve something that we like. Like how it feels. Like how it sounds. Like how it plays. It can be done many different ways. We hope there is a percentage of players that like it as well. Whether that be with a metal A joint, threaded wood A joint, solid core, etc...
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You're confusing a question & a statement. I 100% believe everything factors. By asking others to explain their thoughts doesn't mean i'm flip flopping on mine.
That I agree with. My question to the forum was HOW it affects the hit. I'm curious to see what others think.
No more than an all metal guitar would be better than wood. There's a happy place somewhere between the two extremes, which we are all trying to reach. The road each of us takes may be different, but we're all trying to get to the same spot. IMHO, there are numerous avenues to take that can get you there.
I would question this. It may be pingier than some woods, but not any metals that I know of. Of course there's no way to know without a comprehensive tonal comparison, but until that happens & the statement validated, I disagree.
I was editing my post when you posted this but, again, we are saying the same thing.
Yeah I kinda gathered that after rereading :idea:
Is there a way (machine or method) that one could use to "measure" the "resonance", or "frequency", of a finished cue when it strikes the center of a cue ball at a measured constant speed?
If so, one could adjust things (tip, weight bolt, etc.) to achieve a desired "feel" or "hit".
Where are all our scientists?
If so, one could adjust things (tip, weight bolt, etc.) to achieve a desired "feel" or "hit".
Where are all our scientists?
While I'm not doing anyone's homework for them, I will share my opinions.
The homework part would be searching for links to support my opinions.
So let's consider this to be just that; my opinions.
First, steel is dead-weight/dead-mass. It doesn't vibrate like wood and generally mutes resonance.
These properties are not always a bad thing. Used appropriately, these are steel's qualities.
Without steel, a Maple cue can easily weigh just 14-15 oz. You're going to need to add some wght. somewhere.
Add all the wght to the butt of the cue and it will stand up by itself. You won't like how it plays either.
To maintain the overall balance of the cue, the steel/ballast should be spread over the length of the handle; jnt-A-butt.
CMs need to be thinking ahead when building cues, not after the fact unless you're still learning (and aren't we all).
Steel can be a tuning component much as is the bumper but with a little more permanence to it.
The mtrl composition of the jnt-screw can have an affect on 'hit' but tpi never will.
That applies inside the cue as well. G-10 resonates closer to wood because of it's more similar mass/density.
If you seek fwd bal, G-10 ain't your guy. It will resonate and ping good but maybe a little too good. Tuning.
It's not rocket science but it does have it's riddles.
The homework part would be searching for links to support my opinions.
So let's consider this to be just that; my opinions.
First, steel is dead-weight/dead-mass. It doesn't vibrate like wood and generally mutes resonance.
These properties are not always a bad thing. Used appropriately, these are steel's qualities.
Without steel, a Maple cue can easily weigh just 14-15 oz. You're going to need to add some wght. somewhere.
Add all the wght to the butt of the cue and it will stand up by itself. You won't like how it plays either.
To maintain the overall balance of the cue, the steel/ballast should be spread over the length of the handle; jnt-A-butt.
CMs need to be thinking ahead when building cues, not after the fact unless you're still learning (and aren't we all).
Steel can be a tuning component much as is the bumper but with a little more permanence to it.
The mtrl composition of the jnt-screw can have an affect on 'hit' but tpi never will.
That applies inside the cue as well. G-10 resonates closer to wood because of it's more similar mass/density.
If you seek fwd bal, G-10 ain't your guy. It will resonate and ping good but maybe a little too good. Tuning.
It's not rocket science but it does have it's riddles.
And making mock-ups is not a crime.
Make em and determine for yourself.
You might take a look at this post about a cue hit analysis program I wrote several years ago...
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=326025
Didnt get much interest at the time.
Cheers
Bob
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=326025
Didnt get much interest at the time.
Cheers
Bob
I would love to hear your opinion on a wood or g-10 tunning fork ? Please and thank you.
.
10 different q-makers, 10 different opinions.
In the long run you will build using the joint that pleases you-the builder and also perhaps this is the method you learned when introduced to the craft.. Certainly along your cue building path, you will try other joining methods and may or may not make the new way your go-to joinery.
I happen to prefer the metal pin in the a-joint. It is a reasonable way to get weight forward in a cue. Other cue makers do not use the metal pin and I sure can't disagree.
You say potayto, I say patahto!
I do, however appreciate everyone's opinion and this has been an interesting thread without back biting.
In the long run you will build using the joint that pleases you-the builder and also perhaps this is the method you learned when introduced to the craft.. Certainly along your cue building path, you will try other joining methods and may or may not make the new way your go-to joinery.
I happen to prefer the metal pin in the a-joint. It is a reasonable way to get weight forward in a cue. Other cue makers do not use the metal pin and I sure can't disagree.
You say potayto, I say patahto!
I do, however appreciate everyone's opinion and this has been an interesting thread without back biting.
