Points or not on a new cue

Appreciate your comments and thoughts. Really fantastic to read.

Yes, the beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder, no question about this, and I happen to like both points and no points, as someone said it just depends on the woods used, and points don't do anything for your game.

I do find it a little relieving when I walk into a hall with a cue that has no points.
Seems to catch a little less attention, but maybe that's my imagination.
Somehow I know they're not looking at me because of my game....lol

After reading this I now appreciate knowing that cues with points seem to sell faster.

This is definitely a factor since demand often sets the price.

Also not too thrilled about buying a cue 2k (that's the price of this cue with points, 1500 without) and then have to take a 50% loss on the thing.

However this maker, although not on Matt's list, is indeed a top maker.

But as someone rightfully said; pay less, lose less.

Although I have no intention of selling the cue - after all it hasn't even been made lol - but history tells me that every single time I have bought a cue in the past I've always fully intended to keep it and today I have kept only a small handful of the cues I've bought.

Thanks again for excellent replies, see.....this forum can be amazing.
Let's keep it that way.
 
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If I'm buying a Rauenzahn, Tascarella, or other maker who are known for traditional pointed cues, I'm getting points. If I'm getting a Bluegrass, Sugartree, etc. who are known for using beautiful woods and not necessarily having points, I might err on the non-pointed side of things. For me it just depends on the maker.
 
I do find it a little relieving when I walk into a hall with a cue that has no points.
Seems to catch a little less attention, but maybe that's my imagination.
Somehow I know they're not looking at me because of my game....lol
I think these days that's more your imagination.

In the old days, anyone walking in with their own cue were looked at as a "player" to some degree.

Nowadays, even bangers have their own cues. It might be a $40 department store crap cue with overlays, but it usually will have points. Where I play league, all but a couple players have their own cues, and they range from the $40 Wally World cue to the $1500 custom and everything in between, and every single one I can think of has points. Almost nobody I see shoots with a sneaky/merry widow type cue. So the old idea of using a SP because it looks like a house cue and less like a hustler's cue is dated and not really relevant these days.

That said, some people do prefer the look and hit of their plain jane cues. So as most everyone else has said, go with what you prefer. I tend to agree that points will resell better, but if you're buying a player and not an investment, that shouldn't be relevant. And I believe that a 40-50% hit shouldn't happen with any truly top cue maker. If you told us who your maker was, I'm sure folks could give you more specific insight there.

FWIW, I just sold a cue I bought new for $200 back in the 80's for $400. It was from a well-known maker who is now almost entirely production, but wasn't a fancy cue or anything (it did have points though).
 
9ballr.......there are lots of other cue-makers in every category.......buy quality and you can't go wrong.
However, buy prettier and you'll always fare better and likely be a lot more happy too in the long run.


Matt B.
 
FWIW, and this is MY "opinion" ONLY.

I started playing pool and worked in a pool hall as a kid and have played for more than 50 years. The cues I learned on were all Brunswick house cues with points before I ever used or bought my own cue.

I have NEVER bought a cue on looks or design ONLY, but almost every cue I think played best were spliced cues. That includes custom cues that I've ordered from makers as well-known as Richard Black and others. The Plain Jane or Merry Widows I've bought from the same makers using identical types of wood, weights, balances, lengths, and joints didn't play anywhere near as well as the point cues I bought from the same guys. Even the shafts from everyone all play different, so I always favored one shaft over the other when I bought cues with two shafts.

I think anyone can learn to play well with any cue if they spend enough time with it and fiddle around with different tips and maybe shaft tapers.

I've never bought a cue with the thought in mind of selling it before I even bought it. I bought them to play with. Getting my money back later was always a secondary thought, should I decide to get rid of it.

I think your mind has a lot more to do with playing pool than what cue and who made it and how much it costs.

Play with whatever you can before you buy it and if you like it, snatch it up. If it is used, you can get it all shined up by a cue maker and it will look brand-spanking new.

The happier you are with your cue, the better you will play. In my case (no pun intended), I happen to own and play with "simple-looking" quality pointed cues. I'm happy, the cues are happy and therefore I play better.

Aloha
 
I have a cue with 4 points, one with 8 and one being made with no points. Based on my experience with the two I currently own I don't notice any difference in playability because of points or expect any due to the lack of them.

As others have said, buy what appeals to you and, personal opinion, don't let potential resale value bother you...unless you're just hoping to luck into a cue that's gonna give you an equal or better return.

I only buy things that I Really want and intend to keep, though...a foreign concept for many. Good luck with your decision.



Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
1. NO, IMO. However some cues hold their value because of aesthetics and some hold their value for performance and some hold their value for both.



2. A cue's resale value is based upon many different things and not just one thing such as the inlays or points.



3. Beauty. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.



4. Get a consensus of opinion, that's fine. But buy what you want for the reasons you want and don't allow anyone to influence your decision.



No points:
picture.php




http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=794&pictureid=16176



http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=956&pictureid=16173



POINTS:

picture.php




INLAYS:

picture.php




FTR, I play with the plainest of these cues but only because it was designed to play the best.



JoeyA


Love the POW/MIA inlay, I salute you sir.
 
1. NO, IMO. However some cues hold their value because of aesthetics and some hold their value for performance and some hold their value for both.

2. A cue's resale value is based upon many different things and not just one thing such as the inlays or points.

3. Beauty. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

4. Get a consensus of opinion, that's fine. But buy what you want for the reasons you want and don't allow anyone to influence your decision.

No points:
picture.php


http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=794&pictureid=16176

http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=956&pictureid=16173

POINTS:
picture.php


INLAYS:
picture.php


FTR, I play with the plainest of these cues but only because it was designed to play the best.

JoeyA


Joey,

I love your cues.

Wow!!!!!!!!!!

Just amazing.
 
I realize there are good cuemakers who make merry widows but for me a cue with even points and veneers tells me the cuemaker has a certain level of competency.
 
I realize there are good cuemakers who make merry widows but for me a cue with even points and veneers tells me the cuemaker has a certain level of competency.


Considering how many cue builders use blanks built by someone else, I would not use this theory.
 
Personally I prefer no points even though all my cues have points. I even prefer wood where the wrap is. Wrapless with no points may be my next cue.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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