My personal cue vs. Bar cue

damandavid

damandavid

Registered
So, idk if this is the right sub-forum, but I found out something very strange today while hitting for a few minutes in between classes at my local pool hall. I was hitting with a super cheap bar cue, cause I didn't have my pool cue with me (players hxt with kamui med tip), and I could draw the ball almost twice as well. I shot a variety of shots, and all worked out about the same: way more draw than with my regular cue. Same weight and everything.

Anyone have any clue why this is? I love the feel of my cue, but I want that "bar cue" draw all the time.
 
damandavid said:
So, idk if this is the right sub-forum, but I found out something very strange today while hitting for a few minutes in between classes at my local pool hall. I was hitting with a super cheap bar cue, cause I didn't have my pool cue with me (players hxt with kamui med tip), and I could draw the ball almost twice as well. I shot a variety of shots, and all worked out about the same: way more draw than with my regular cue. Same weight and everything.

Anyone have any clue why this is? I love the feel of my cue, but I want that "bar cue" draw all the time.
Click to expand...

Well...you bought a Players cue. :rolleyes: :grin-square:

Do I know why you found what you did? OK...hold on...it's coming...the bar cue is the better playing cue for you. :wink:

You could buy that cue from the bar, take it to a cue maker, and have a sneaky made.

In fact, just offer to trade your Players cue. :grin-square:


.
 
Chopdoc said:
Well...you bought a Players cue. :rolleyes: :grin-square:

Do I know why you found what you did? OK...hold on...it's coming...the bar cue is the better playing cue for you. :wink:

You could buy that cue from the bar, take it to a cue maker, and have a sneaky made.

In fact, just offer to trade your Players cue. :grin-square:


.
Click to expand...
Part of me wondered if it had anything to do with the tip or the balance of the cue...idk, I was hoping someone could give me a magic formula for amazing draw skills!

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
 
I did what Chopdoc suggested with the house cue with which I learned. If you like it that much... I'd get it.

It obvious suited you for that day. It probably has a different balance & different hardness of tip & maybe it is a spiced cue & yours is not.

The shaft section may be more flexible with a different taper or more stiff with a different taper.

I'd get the cue & make some comparisons to yours.

Good Luck & Best Wishes 2 Ya,
Rick
 
damandavid said:
Part of me wondered if it had anything to do with the tip or the balance of the cue...idk, I was hoping someone could give me a magic formula for amazing draw skills!

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Your only option at this point short of buying a different cue or shaft is to try another tip on your player.

Another possibility is you do not take care of your tip very well, and it needs some TLC.
 
WGDave said:
Your only option at this point short of buying a different cue or shaft is to try another tip on your player.

Another possibility is you do not take care of your tip very well, and it needs some TLC.
Click to expand...
Currently, I try and take care of my tip as best as I know how. I have a bowtie tip tool, and use it to shape my tip and scuff my tip when necessary, and I use the tip pick if I feel that the tip isn't holding chalk well. Is there anything else I should be doing? Currently, my tip is not mushrooming.

One difference between the bar cue and my cue is tip radius, my cue has closer to a nickel radius, while the bar cue is a dime radius. Would that make such a dramatic difference?

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
 
I wasn't kidding. Buy the cue.

You are asking us questions about a cue that none of us has seen let alone touched.

Sure it could be the tip radius. It could be any combination of factors.

Buy the bar a nice Valley or Dufferin and trade them for the cue.


Get the cue.



It's like you are telling about this amazing woman you met. You never got her name or number. You only know that she will be in that same place again tomorrow....GO AND GET HER.

Seriously. :thumbup:

Then you can analyze the matter at your leisure and tell us what you find rather than have us guess.


.
 
Chopdoc said:
I wasn't kidding. Buy the cue.

You are asking us questions about a cue that none of us has seen let alone touched.

Sure it could be the tip radius.

Buy the bar a nice Valley or Dufferin and trade them for the cue.


Get the cue.



It's like you are telling about this amazing woman you met. You never got her name or number. You only know that she will be in that same place again tomorrow....GO AND GET HER.

Seriously.
Then you can analyze the matter at your leisure and tell us what you find rather than have us guess.


.
Click to expand...
Lol, that would be true...if I liked the cue. But I don't. It's short, no bumper on the end, and has terrible feel. It's like a bastard brother...but for some reason I could draw with it really well. I get that it is a little strange to be asking why one cue would do more for me than another on the forum, I just wanted to see what people's thoughts were (people who have been playing heck of a lot longer than me)!

Thanks for the input.



Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
 
Believe it or not, it could also have been psychological. You didn't expect much from a bar cue, so you relaxed a bit. And you hit them well. You would expect more from your jointed cue, so you tense up a bit more with it. Possibilities...

All the best,
WW
 
damandavid said:
So, idk if this is the right sub-forum, but I found out something very strange today while hitting for a few minutes in between classes at my local pool hall. I was hitting with a super cheap bar cue, cause I didn't have my pool cue with me (players hxt with kamui med tip), and I could draw the ball almost twice as well. I shot a variety of shots, and all worked out about the same: way more draw than with my regular cue. Same weight and everything.

Anyone have any clue why this is? I love the feel of my cue, but I want that "bar cue" draw all the time.
Click to expand...


Personally I find it much easier to draw (and actually just play in general) with stiffer shafts.
Which another reason I HATE LD shafts.
 
9Ballr said:
Personally I find it much easier to draw (and actually just play in general) with stiffer shafts.
Which another reason I HATE LD shafts.
Click to expand...

I think the OB pro with the European Conical taper is more stiff than rather many solid maple shafts & especially ones with an equally sized 11.75 mm tip.
 
Chopdoc said:
I wasn't kidding. Buy the cue.

You are asking us questions about a cue that none of us has seen let alone touched.

Sure it could be the tip radius. It could be any combination of factors.

Buy the bar a nice Valley or Dufferin and trade them for the cue.


Get the cue.



It's like you are telling about this amazing woman you met. You never got her name or number. You only know that she will be in that same place again tomorrow....GO AND GET HER.

Seriously. :thumbup:

Then you can analyze the matter at your leisure and tell us what you find rather than have us guess.


.
Click to expand...

I agree with that. Get the cue.
 
ENGLISH! said:
I think the OB pro with the European Conical taper is more stiff than rather many solid maple shafts & especially ones with an equally sized 11.75 mm tip.
Click to expand...


I've had one of those and sold it after a week.

Doesn't come close to the quality of a well made solid maple shaft.........NOT FOR ME that is.

Flimsy, muted feel, super weird feel of the wood it self all that laminate and clue I guess, dunno.....unless it's just the nature of all that inferior wood used in LD's because they can. All they need is a tiny strip that's OK. Not a whole plank that's awesome.

I also have a Z2 that I kept because it is quite good, as LDs go.
Still have more LDs in my closet than I can remember.
Need to get some of those sold, never use them.
 
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Could it be psychological? Because you're conscious of not shooting with your regular cue, you're more attentive with your fundamentals?
 
9Ballr said:
I've had one of those and sold it after a week.

Doesn't come close to the quality of a well made solid maple shaft.........NOT FOR ME that is.

Flimsy, muted feel, super weird feel of the wood it self all that laminate and clue I guess, dunno.....unless it's just the nature of all that inferior wood used in LD's because they can. All they need is a tiny strip that's OK. Not a whole plank that's awesome.

I also have a Z2 that I kept because it is quite good, as LDs go.
Still have more LDs in my closet than I can remember.
Need to get some of those sold, never use them.
Click to expand...

Was it a Classic Pro or a OB2? The OB 1s & 2s were filled a rubber of some sort.

I keep mine very clean with a touch of carnuba wax & burnished & they are as smooth as silk. I would rather the OBs over any of the Predators that I've hit even the juiced 314 Cat that I can't seem to let go of.

Do you use a hard tip because I could see what you're saying if maybe comparing them with a hard tip.

Anyway, as long as one is happy with what they are playing then that is what matters to them.

I just know that it's easier playing the english that I do with the LD's less squirt.

Best 2 Ya,
Rick
 
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damandavid said:
Currently, I try and take care of my tip as best as I know how. I have a bowtie tip tool, and use it to shape my tip and scuff my tip when necessary, and I use the tip pick if I feel that the tip isn't holding chalk well. Is there anything else I should be doing? Currently, my tip is not mushrooming.

One difference between the bar cue and my cue is tip radius, my cue has closer to a nickel radius, while the bar cue is a dime radius. Would that make such a dramatic difference?

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Take the shaft to a tip installer and have them take a few layers off and shape it closer to a dime.

Can't hurt and may give you the answer you seek.
 
Could BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

China made production cues Priority.
Profit.
Cheap materials
Cheap labor.
preventing shaft issues like warping = resin reinforced shafts . cored shafts with something inside to keep it from warping.
Fiber glassed shafts .
Anything but top quality solid maple dowels that have been seasoned or cured .

Which equals that some bar cues shoot better then some production cues do.
 
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I'm kinda running into the same problem sort of.

I find with bar cues, I get more feedback. I know part of it is that there's no metal joint in the middle of it. And the lack of a bumper helps echo the sound, which gives me more feedback as to if I hit the shot well. I find with my cue, I have to hit it really good to get that resonance.

It also might just be me but my LD shaft is designed to "get out of the way of the ball", so a maple shaft just feels like it's giving a purer hit. It just seems to come off the tip better.

Also I don't know if you're playing with the skinny HXT shaft, but I find a 13mm shaft way more forgiving. I seem to get better and more consistent draw with a 13mm, than I ever did with an 11.75, but it's hard to tell cause when I had the OB classic, I was just starting out, and it was to much for my terrible stroke to control.

Anyways, I'm ordering a plain bacote schmelke with a 13mm maple shaft and a 3/8 x10 wood to wood joint, without a weight bolt, and I'm probably gunna remove the bumper and see how close I get.

I don't know what to do about the metal pin. Guess it can't be helped.

Does anyone know if the g10 stuff would get me any closer to replicating a one-piece?

Also there might be something to be said about a good solid leather tip.

But yeah, I started with a maple shaft, and then went straight to obclassic, hxt, poison, predator. Everyone said get used to ld shafts now instead of later. But I'm finding the oldschool stuff (yeah even the single layer tips), just kinda feel better.

Maybe I'm just crazy.

Also I use back hand english on a barbox, and a 14inch long bridge with a 314-2 shaft is a bit ridiculous.
 
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